Capacitor Replacement Thread . . .

[phreakout]

Amen to that. In a pinch, those caps will work. Don't know if they're any better than SMD orange colored tantalums I use (the same ones that trag uses). You'll just need to make sure you trim the leads short enough and make sure you install them in the right position: + to +, - to -. Duh.

73s de Phreakout. :rambo:

 

[uniserver]

I got my sleeves up, and ready to recap this IIci board I got yesterday, ready to twist these leaky lil bastards off and solder up these new gems i found at microcenter.

 

[tt]

I would be bummed out if I found a Christmas tree farm of BIG electrolytic caps on my board, but not as bummed as an irrepairable board due to capacitor acid leakage. I just posted the following elsewhere, but since this thread is a gathering of knowledge, I'll re-post here.

I'm thinking of going with aluminum organic polymers in the future. They're twice the price but have the stock look and my understanding is that they won't leak like an electrolytic will.

Yeah, they do not have a fluid inside of them. They seem to get a good recommendation as a high reliability tantalum alternative from NASA:

A destructive test with massive current over stress to fail the polymer aluminum capacitors reveals that all polymer aluminum capacitors failed in a benign mode without ignition, combustion, or any other catastrophic failures.

Apparently there are other polymer/aluminum constructions besides the aluminum can/wound structure as shown in the source doc. Here is another example:



Source: http://nepp.nasa.gov/files/20389/09_005_GSFC_Williams_Liu%20APC%20Final%20Report.pdf

 

[uniserver]

More like dead Christmas trees. I did the IIci, with those microcenter caps, works great! made the leads longer and just laid the caps on their side that way they don't break off, I kinda got the idea from a board technight did. It'd great to have working softpower back and sound.



Some people here say not to twist the caps off, I twist every one off, every time. it works great,

also i leave the snapped off old leads on the pad, no reason to remove them.

- Twist Caps off

- Remove all debris

- Clean leaky goop with a damp paper towel

- buff off corrosion if there is any, or skip this step

- flux

- Swiftly heat up , apply fresh solder

- reflux

- set cap, and heat up each side, if you do it quick enough with the alum can kind it will sit nice and flat just like stock.

if you are not quick it will be crooked, but don't be anal, minimize how much heat you are putting into the pads!

if the cap is sitting cocked, but you can see the solder has flowed properly, and connected the lead to the pad, just leave it.

- I try to massively limit putting heat on the pad !

The more heat you put into the pad, the more likely it will lift.

Vary rarely do i lift a pad. But some days are bad days,

Also don't be a worry ward, just get in there an replace the caps.

some of you will fail, and even if you do there are pros out there like technight and phreakout that have blue prints

and they can use wirewrap and follow traces, if needed!

I received a IIci from captainbob , He gave it to me for free, lots of pads were ripped clean off. Someone had F^%$#^ this thing all up!

i did some very ugly re-work to make the connections still happen, I had to be vary patient! Was able to make all the connections, it works great now.

 

[LOOM]

There are so many Capacitor threads and discussions so I don't know where this belongs now, but what about the Macintosh Plus?

I got a long list of capacitors for the International Macintosh Plus from an old thread in here, but I have problems finding all the parts. And some seems to not be in production any more. And I wan't to buy all of them at the same time because of shipping prices.

Where can I buy them?

A international Macintosh Plus capacitor list from another thread:

- 4x 2200uf, 16v Radial: D=18mm, H=35mm
- 1x 4700uf, 16v Radial: D=18mm, H=35mm
- 1x1000uf, 16v Radial: D=16mm, H=25mm
- 1x 220uf, 16v Radial: D=10mm, H=20mm
- 2x 470uf, 10v Radial: D=8mm, H=12mm
- 2x 22uf, 50v Axial: L=16mm
- 1x 47uf, 16v Axial: L=14mm
- 1x 33uf, 16v Axial: L=13mm
- 2x 4700pF, 250v Box: L=13mm
- 1x 474K, 400V Metal Poly: L=23mm
- 1x 3.9uf 35v Bi Polar: D=18mm, H=35mm

 

[bbraun]

My feedback on this project:

The photos and the list of caps is really helpful. Being able to know ahead of time what I need to order before sitting down at the bench and disassembling the machine helps a lot.

The links to Mouser aluminum electrolytic caps was unexpected and a bit disappointing. An example: I was browsing the threads, and I've got a Classic that works but really should be recapped. I saw the Classic thread and thought "this is useful, I'll just click the links and order the caps so I have them on hand when I get around to replacing them". Then clicked on the link and was shocked and amazed to find tin cans. Replacing with those seems silly and pointless, so closed the window and gave up.

I'm not sure this is the best format though. This is what the wiki is for. Forums are not really conducive to this kind of reference documentation and collaboration. We've already got a bazillion comments in this and several of the other threads that are not relevant to the purpose of the thread, all of which must be sorted through just to find the useful bits of information. Including this one.

Honestly, when there is so much chaff to sort through, I'll just identify the caps myself.

 

[Trash80toHP_Mini]

Anytime anyone finds an old thread like Cosmo's, or a newer one that's helpful, please link to it in this thread. Then I can edit it into the IP and add a link to here from there. I'm trying to pull of fa ForumMicroWorldWideWeb for all things capacitor.

Thanks to everyone who's jumped in so far. One rally great contribution would be searching out and posting as many of the threads mentioned above for those who are not graphically or technically inclined, we can all help!

 

[uniserver]

Because tin cans are oem stock replacement parts, by all means if you want to look up and add what you suggest, please do!

 

[Trash80toHP_Mini]

Rule #1 stands: No cost cutting parts listings or form factor substitutions allowed in this combined forces operation, for these reasons:

Only the best parts available should be posted for recap noobs like myself to read. I really don't want to supply information for cutting corners on quality. We're preserving Macs for posterity, so it's another 25 years of life expectancy for a specified part or nothing.

Anyone wanting to save money by buying parts of lesser quality can figure it out on their own. If they can't do that, as I can't (and do not wish to spend time on learning enough to do so) they shouldn't be questioning the cost of a recap, but should look at it as the cost of this information service. I don't want noobs (myself) confused by too much information posted in the articles headed into the WiKi.

Any implication that replacing caps that were made long enough ago and under quality controls that allowed them to last until now, or fairly recently, can be replaced with caps made under quality control tolerances meant for disposable consumer electronics with a 5 year/minus life expectancy are expressly verboten.

If mouser sells the good stuff, fine, maybe we can add them as an alternative, that' something to be determined. The minimum requirement for any article with its attendant list of links to hit the WiKi is a DigiKey order spec for North America and equivalent suppliers for the rest of the world's market areas.

Thank you all for your input, it is greatly appreciated.

More rules to be posted as the need arises.

 

[bbraun]

My suggestion for the wiki was for ease of reference, as opposed to digging through all these posts of meta-discussion on how to post the information, and would avoid the flood of potentially dozens of new topics with one topic-per-model.

Don't get me wrong, the information is useful and I appreciate it. One topic-per-model in the forums just doesn't seem like the most useful presentation of the information. This is perfectly suited to the wiki where all the information is just right there, it can be linked to, people can add part links, etc. And none of the irrelevant peripheral discussion needs to clutter it up.

Alternatively, if it's meant for reference and you really want to use the forum, lock every caps topic, sticky them, and a mod can update links as needed.

Just suggestions, I'm not a mod, but as a user, I've kind of stopped reading new posts because my eyes glaze over on the flood of caps topics.

 

[Trash80toHP_Mini]

Wiki articles don't pop up finished unless a single individual goes through a lot of individual effort to do just one.

This started as a collaborative effort just to get the threads linked for wherever we have good info on the books ATM and to ask for a ways to format hard information for posting as topical threads in H&D or, as suggested, as articles in the WiKi.

I'm trying to organize an intercontinental joint forces op. Dunno if it will work out, but I thought it was certainly worth a try.

 

[tt]

+1 to what bbraun said. jt, maybe just have a thread you own where the first post is a wiki, but you maintain. People can add info at the bottom and then you approve what goes into the first post.

Here are parts I ordered at Jameco.com. I think the parts are even less expensive now.

                                                                          SCHED
  Item                                             Unit       Line       SHIP
 Number  Item Description                 Qty      Price      Price      DATE

  545131 @CAP,TANT,CHIP,3528,1UF,10%,        1       .3200        .32  07/06/07
  545271 @CAP,TANT,CHIP,6032,47UF,           4       .6900       2.76  07/06/07
  545393 @CAP,TANT,CHIP,7343,47UF,           8       .6500       5.20  07/06/07

 

[Trash80toHP_Mini]

Well, since I don' no' nuthin' 'bout da Wikification process as yet, I think we'll keep this right here in H&D where I'm in my comfort zone. I'm not opposed to having the machine specific threads in the applicable forums, that's where they've always been since I've been here.

This thread is a clearinghouse/rally point.

Thanks for that listing,tt, Let's keep 'em coming in gang. When it looks like an article is shaping up for the WiKi, someone else can do that part too, I'm jus' a clueless ringleader here, so be patient with my shortcomings and everyone be patient with each other as we develop this process.

Think of this as the Z-80 approach to gathering info. When we've got this up and running, then it'll be time move it to a fancy new chip/array/gizmothingamajigger.

In the meantime, posts saying we should go from ZERO to perfect in a single step are not very helpful at all.

Pitch in and DO Something! I can't really help, I'm doing this so other folks in my boat can learn what to do too!

jt

 

[Mk.558]

Wiki articles don't pop up finished unless a single individual goes through a lot of individual effort to do just one.

Somehow I hear my name be called for a "first run" or "template" or "model". Of course knowing my record the Rev. A will be garbage (i.e. first revision of the SE/30 cap image, first edition of Classic Mac Networking) and the Rev. B will be way better...

Before we get all carried away and start wallowing in the sand pit, have we examined what's already been established? Maybe all we might have to do is reformat it, add some tips and maybe a video.

I don't have any more boards to recap but that could change if someone sends one my way or something...err..Well the 2300c spare display is de-tanked, but...let's not worry about that now. I'd need a whole start->finish thing anyways. That and my video capture method consists of a P&S camera, so yeah...

 

[uniserver]

oh man videos would be great as well! Mcdermd has some, but i am not sure if he is ready to go public

 

[uniserver]

Gentleman, Trag should post his email address, so the many people that see this as a guest can contact him direct for a High-end Quality Cap kit.

I am probably going to start selling DIY kits, but with OEM STOCK parts in the kits for all the common boards,

Included will be a color laser legal print out of the main board, with my main board image.

I have to wait to get my paycheck, and to fix all these boards from macdrone first though.

going to use all my nifty mouser links and go to town. Get some usps padded envelopes.

I'd be more then happy to help you my way, World.

I will sell 2 cap packages, I'll call them:

- Package 1- "The Bone Stock Fix" - Alum Can Caps

- Package 2- "I am a cheap ass Fix" - All Radials - Aka "Christmas Trees"

(My prices will be much less then anyone else's package kits)

Both packages will include basic to minimal customer service

iamcapsmack@gmail.com

 

[tt]

The ORIGINAL reference :b&w: :



Source: http://home.earthlink.net/~gamba2/se30repair.html

 

[UNA_Lion]

Sent a PM to the appropriate personnel for acquisition of capacitors, as I've recently been informed that a recap might be called for on my Classic II. I'll be blunt: I've no soldering skills whatsoever, and my last attempt at what should have been an elementary procedure turned out to be utterly disastrous. I'm as likely to irreversibly FUBAR my motherboard as successfully recap it. For all I know, that scenario fits most here, though I rather doubt it.

So... what's the bottom line up front? I'd like to find out if anyone here would like the challenge of recapping my motherboard. If you're interested, please PM me.

Thanks!

 

[uniserver]

What Main Board do you have sir?

 

[UNA_Lion]

It's a Macintosh Classic II. Other than that, I don't know how to describe the board. Here is a pic: