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PowerBook 540c hinge restoration: SUCCESS!!!

GregorHouse

Well-known member
Update on the PB100 fix project, I've just finished the first attempt. I'll print during night and see if it fits. I alreasy glued the threads on my 170, I didn't remember. It's a question of time that I have to to it anyway, so I think I will remove all threads and test if the 3D printed fix works fine.

I leave a picture of the thing.

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GregorHouse

Well-known member
Finally, I finished the PB 100 series hinge fix. This one has been a little more tricky than the 500 series by some reasons, and I had to reprint it a few times to correct a couple issues. Some considerations:

-Unlike the 500 series, the backpanel of the display isn't flat. This makes glueing the 3D printed part to the case mandatory. Otherwise, the screen has some free movement and when the lid is closed it opens a gap between the two cases. I couldn't get the glue yet, but I'm sure that glueing it will solve it.

-The part must fit a two-leveled surface, 1mm a part. This forces to print a 1mm suport under the hinge area. No way this can be printed in PLA and get the support removed. I never worked with PET, but ABS is very easy to peel the supports, so I'd go with ABS for sure. Indeed it's easier to glue to the case if it's made in ABS.

-About the threads: I've reused the thread inserts, so I could use the same screws, but note that I've inserted it BACKWARDS, so the thick part touches the case. This way makes it much difficult for it to loose. It comes in pretty tight, so I recommend to use a vice if possible. You might be able to insert it with pliers, but it could enter bent and break the plastic. Also make sure to remove all glue and plastic rests you may have in the threads. I burned it with a lighter and screwed the screw a few times to make sure the thread was clean.

Also using this system reduces considerably the tolerance of the print, so the threads don't misalign with the hinges. Fortunately my printer is quite precise and I don't need to adjust anything before printing, but you should make sure your printer doesn't distort any dimension. There are some benchmarks on thingiverse to measure such distortion so you can adjust it before printing. I think that's all. I leave the link to the thing in thingiverse and some pictures of the process where you can see what I mentioned above.

-I made the part to embrace the metal hinge, so the back panel shield won't fit anymore. I had to cut it with scissors leaving a little piece that will sit between the part and the hinge, still making good contact to the chassis.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4391026

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PB145B

Well-known member
I really never thought this day would come. A fix for this curse has been created! Thank you for taking the time to design this.

Looks like I’m going to have to have to break down and get a 3D printer at some point...

 

GregorHouse

Well-known member
I really never thought this day would come. A fix for this curse has been created! Thank you for taking the time to design this.

Looks like I’m going to have to have to break down and get a 3D printer at some point...
There are several 3D printing shops, at least in my city, where you can go and they'll print it for you. But if you think you can make use of it, don't doubt and go for it. It's the best inversion I'd done in a very long time, it had paid itself several times.

 

GregorHouse

Well-known member
You should sell these on ebay or something i really could use it for my 170
I wouldn't mind printing these for free and just charge the shipping, but I'm afraid it will cost more and for sure take longer for you than if you print it locally. Besides, it's more ecofriendly

 

techknight

Well-known member
Well what about us guys who have no access to 3D printers or know nothing about it, like me? 

I live in the middle of nowhere and the nearest major city is about an hour and a half away or more. 

 
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GregorHouse

Well-known member
Finally I got Loctite 401 and glued the clip to the center cover. I left 24h before mounting and it looks very solid. It came in with a very satisfying click noise and stays in place properly.

I printed it with a 0.2mm nozzle and set layer height at 0.1mm to achieve better resolution.

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CC_333

Well-known member
I really like this!

I have a literal box full of 500 series display plastics which are broken in this manner, and it would be nice to be able to reuse them.

Do you think your 140/170 piece will fit unmodified into a 150?  I ask because the plastics of my 150 pretty much shattered.

c

 

sutekh

Well-known member
You should sell these on ebay or something i really could use it for my 170
I wouldn't mind printing these for free and just charge the shipping
I'd suggest covering your expenses for time and materials at least. Vintage audio is another hobby of mine, and I designed and now print / sell on eBay a common part for older Marantz receivers. I gave the first few batches away and quickly grew weary of the process. I now charge what I think is a reasonable amount for my time and creative output, which keeps me engaged and willing and the parts available to those who need them.

 

GregorHouse

Well-known member
I really like this!

I have a literal box full of 500 series display plastics which are broken in this manner, and it would be nice to be able to reuse them.

Do you think your 140/170 piece will fit unmodified into a 150?  I ask because the plastics of my 150 pretty much shattered.

c
I couldn't say for sure, as I don't have this model in particular. As far as I can see looking for pictures online I think it might

 

Iesca

Well-known member
Finally I got Loctite 401 and glued the clip to the center cover. I left 24h before mounting and it looks very solid. It came in with a very satisfying click noise and stays in place properly.

I printed it with a 0.2mm nozzle and set layer height at 0.1mm to achieve better resolution.
Would you be willing to add the clip(s) to Thingiverse as well?
 

macman0512

Active member
This is great guys! Does anyone have the full model of the display clutch cover though? I just bought a Powerbook 520c and it's clutch cover is completely missing.
 
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