• Hello, Guest! Welcome back, and be sure to check out this post for more info about the recent service interruption and migration.

PowerBook 540c hinge restoration: SUCCESS!!!

GregorHouse

Well-known member
Basically that's it. I got on fixing the hinge of my pretty little PB 540c, that had the display completely detached due to a broken case, and I dare to call it a success. I'd like to share it with you, in case someone finds it interesting.

First I tried with epoxy glue, that did the trick for a while, but not much. I also tried bicomponent putty (as google translate says), with no results. I even tried to fix it using cofix, a plastic used to repair scratches in ski and snowboards, that you can melt and shape, but didn't work either.

So finally I made some kind of subframe for the display using a 3D printer. I designed it myself, if someone is interested I can give them the file or upload it to thingiverse. As you can see in the pictures below, the thing is about removing all remaining pieces of the original mountings to make room for the new frame. I used a heated blade to cut the plastic easily.

The frame has a wide area that is 1mm thick and hides between the display and the case, spreading the force applied to the hinge. The lower part of the frame is where the hinges are bolted. I made a couple mistakes that I didn't bother to correct and print again. First, I didn't give space for the two plastic bolts that centers the display, so I cut it with scissors. Also, I should have lowered the height of the frame in the middle, so the lower display board would sit flat. I just kept it in mind and not overtightened the screws as it could bend the board.

The ideal material for this would have been PET, for strength reasons, but I didn't have any, so I used ABS and seems to be enough. Also I thought about glueing it with epoxy but finally I didn't, because it feels quite good now, and if it ever breaks it will be much easier to replace if it isn't glued.

WhatsApp Image 2020-05-12 at 14.39.41 (1).jpeg

WhatsApp Image 2020-05-12 at 14.39.41.jpeg

WhatsApp Image 2020-05-12 at 14.39.40 (1).jpeg

WhatsApp Image 2020-05-12 at 14.39.40.jpeg

WhatsApp Image 2020-05-12 at 14.39.39.jpeg

 

ttb

Well-known member
Great project! I'd definitely be interested in the files, native CAD or STL. Now if only we can figure out how to repair those little display access cover hooks...

 

GregorHouse

Well-known member
Great project! I'd definitely be interested in the files, native CAD or STL. Now if only we can figure out how to repair those little display access cover hooks...
PM me and I send you the files. What cover do you mean?

 

ttb

Well-known member
The cover that goes over the hinge access area:

IMG_1098.jpegIMG_1097.jpeg

The twin clips mate with a wide overhang so I'm thinking of using either a formed metal piece or a 3D printed plastic piece that fits between them (or whats left of them). It can be glued in and would considerably more robust than the individual clips.

 

tokyoracer

Well-known member
I think these files should definitely be uploaded somewhere for all to access. Definitely alot of PB users here that need this. 

However like yours, both my 500 series lappies need some kind of center piece fix though.

If only there was a similar solution for my PB150... Been tempted just to say sod it and drill a hole and stick a bolt thorough and be done with it.

 

GregorHouse

Well-known member
The cover that goes over the hinge access area:

View attachment 33702View attachment 33703

The twin clips mate with a wide overhang so I'm thinking of using either a formed metal piece or a 3D printed plastic piece that fits between them (or whats left of them). It can be glued in and would considerably more robust than the individual clips.
Mine isn't broken luckily, but I can give it a try and see if I can make something.

 

techknight

Well-known member
OOOO I love this. 

We need something like this designed for the PB1XX series as well. 

I have 180Cs and a number of others that are dealing with this problem. 

 

techknight

Well-known member
its basically the same thing. the stand-offs are broken from the rear of the LCD case lid, so the LCD doesnt mount in place at the bottom properly, and of course, the hinges wont mount at all. I will have to get pics when I pull them out, but I bet 90% of the people here have similar problems. 

 

GregorHouse

Well-known member
The cover that goes over the hinge access area:

View attachment 33702View attachment 33703

The twin clips mate with a wide overhang so I'm thinking of using either a formed metal piece or a 3D printed plastic piece that fits between them (or whats left of them). It can be glued in and would considerably more robust than the individual clips.
I came up with two designs that may work, I haven't tested yet as I don't have epoxy glue right now, but both fit well.

The first one fits between the two broken clips (you need to cut them flat). The second has a large glueing area, but requires to remove both clips completely and centering the piece by hand.

I've just posted them in the same thingiverse thing, link below. I'd print it in ABS, due to its better glueing capacities, and using a 0.2mm nozzle if possible (pictures are printed with a 0.4mm). I'll let you know when I get the glue.

photo5913415942589756422.jpg

photo5913415942589756423.jpg

photo5913415942589756424.jpg

 

techknight

Well-known member
I like the 500 series stuff. I have a couple of those that are suffering, and all the lower covers are broke just like above. 

 

ttb

Well-known member
The little version of that clip is exactly what I was picturing, great work. Looking forward to hearing about how it works when glued. 
 

If you have any trouble with delamination you may consider printing it with the clip laying on its side. Right now it looks like it was printed in the orientation shown in your photo, which may make it easier for the overhang to break off. 

 

GregorHouse

Well-known member
The little version of that clip is exactly what I was picturing, great work. Looking forward to hearing about how it works when glued. 
 

If you have any trouble with delamination you may consider printing it with the clip laying on its side. Right now it looks like it was printed in the orientation shown in your photo, which may make it easier for the overhang to break off. 
The big deal here will be the glueing part. It will be a lot weaker than the layer adhesion. I won't go cheap on the epoxy, I'm thinking on this: https://www.mundoceys.com/storage/app/media/fichas_tecnicas/510106 HT ARALDITE STANDARD.pdf

I'm sorry, I couldn't find an English version, but if you look at the graphic measuring resistance in MPa, it has the best values for ABS and Polycarbonate I could find. If you have a better recomendation, I'm listening.

 

ttb

Well-known member
According to Henkel's Loctite plastic bonding guide an instant adhesive may be your best bet: https://www.ellsworth.com/globalassets/literature-library/manufacturer/henkel-loctite/henkel-loctite-design-guide-plastic-bonding.pdf

Loctite 414 acheives 24MPa against ABS and roughened PC: https://www.henkel-adhesives.com/us/en/product/instant-adhesives/loctite_414.html

This will require your gaps to be small, though, so the adhesive (which is brittle) won't crack.

EDIT: And Loctite 414 is just a "special" cyanoacrylate glue, so it's likely any super glue will do similarly well.

 
Last edited by a moderator:

GregorHouse

Well-known member
According to Henkel's Loctite plastic bonding guide an instant adhesive may be your best bet: https://www.ellsworth.com/globalassets/literature-library/manufacturer/henkel-loctite/henkel-loctite-design-guide-plastic-bonding.pdf

Loctite 414 acheives 24MPa against ABS and roughened PC: https://www.henkel-adhesives.com/us/en/product/instant-adhesives/loctite_414.html

This will require your gaps to be small, though, so the adhesive (which is brittle) won't crack.

EDIT: And Loctite 414 is just a "special" cyanoacrylate glue, so it's likely any super glue will do similarly well.
Yes, I'm digging in the Henkel and Ceys sites and it seems cyanoacrylate has slightly better resistance than epoxy. Thanks for the input!

 
Top