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PowerBook 540c Restoration Project

jmacz

Well-known member
27 years ago, I sold my PowerBook 540c via a Usenet posting. It was tough seeing it go but I needed the funds to expand my experiments with Linux at the time. Well after all this time, I took delivery today of a "parts only" PowerBook 540c for a really low price. Came with a power supply also.

IMG_4829.JPG

I had been keeping an eye open for a reasonably priced 540c and this particular one I purchased for parts. I figured it would be completely dead.

Task #1: Check it physically - I visually inspected the unit. Not a lot of scuffs and was in reasonably good condition. The plastic hadn't really yellowed. The rear port cover is present but one of the latch tabs is missing and thus it won't stay closed. The lid latch works. I did receive the front screen hinge cover but it's cracked and thus does not stay on (removed in the picture above). The hinge end caps look fine. Battery bays show signs of corrosion. There is residue on the walls of both battery compartments and there's corrosion present on the connectors. The power supply isn't cracked and seems in reasonable shape.

Task #2: Check the power supply - I left the power supply disconnected from the laptop and just plugged it into an outlet. I then used a multimeter to measure the voltage on the pins. Two were showing 16.4V or around there. I believe that's to spec so it looked like the power supply was actually working!

Task #3: Does the 540c power up? - I plugged the power supply into the laptop, held my breath, and pushed the power button. Nothing. Pushed it again. Nothing. Held it down for a few seconds. Nothing. Ok, as I expected. I was not expecting it to boot. I then went to clean up the box it came in and came back around a minute later. I tried pushing the power button one more time and woah... I heard the startup chime, hard disk came to life, and a few moments later, the screen turned on. And then it started booting!

Task #4: OS and Memory - After the Finder came up, checked the about screen. It's running System 7.5.5 and has 20MB of memory. So I guess that means 4MB on board and a 16MB expansion card.

IMG_4830.JPG

Task #5: Check the screen - The screen brightness is fine. Both the contrast and brightness buttons work. However, a couple issues. As noted above, there's some ghosting to the right side of all screen elements. This ghosting moves with the elements on screen (like the window). It doesn't look like damage to the LCD panel itself because the ghosting moves with the window for example. I'm hoping I can figure out what's wrong with this and fix it. There's also unevenness with the backlighting. The upper left and upper right corners have bright spots and the left edge also has a bright spot. Perhaps the backlight is going bad?

Task #6: PRAM battery - Clearly dead and of course that's expected. It's not holding time across shutdown and disconnect of the power supply.

Task #7: Sound, Keyboard, Trackpad - All working. No issues. Tested every key using Key Caps, tested the trackpad and trackpad button. Played some sounds back. All good here.

Task #8: Does the floppy work? - I placed a known good disk in and after pushing it in, the laptop lost power. What?? Tried to turn it back on and no go. Waited 30 seconds and tried again. The laptop started powering up. Go to the Finder. And then the disk loaded and appeared on the Finder with the proper contents. I tried ejecting and re-inserting the disk and that worked fine. Not sure what that reboot was but I couldn't reproduce it after that. So the floppy drive is working.

Task #9: How's the hard disk? - Did not do an extensive test here but it's booting and seems to be ok. Sounds a little wonky though. But working as of now.

So the unit seems to be ok. I was going to use this as a parts machine but given the condition it's in, I may just use this and try to restore it. The physical stuff I will deal with later. But this weekend I plan to open it up and check the boards. I have not done proper research yet on these 540c's so I don't know what the capacitor situation is. Also need to see how much damage there is from the corrosion in the battery bays. Hoping it's not too bad. Will first clean up the boards. Replace any capacitors as needed. Then go from there.

First question for those with deeper 540c knowledge (re: power supply) - with these power supplies, if it's working for me (which it currently is), do I just keep using it until it dies and then go through the pain of slicing it open to recap it. Or should I not wait and just slice it open now and replace the caps? Not clear to me how much damage I am exposing myself to by waiting to replace the caps.

Second question (re: power up procedure) - I don't think it's normal that I could not get the laptop to boot until about a minute or so after I had plugged it into the power supply. I would have expected the power button to work almost immediately. That seems to suggest a bad capacitor somewhere? But would that be in the laptop itself or would that be in power supply? I'm going to leave it disconnected for a bit and then reconnect just the power supply and see if I immediately see 16V+ on the two pins. If I do, I am going to assume the issue is with the laptop itself rather than the power supply. But then again, the fact that when I first tried the floppy drive and saw the laptop shut off by itself, seems like the power might not be 100% stable?

Anyhow, this is the beginning of a new adventure. Hopefully not too much of the plastic is brittle and I can 3d print or use plastic weld to fix some of the problem areas.
 

MacUp72

Well-known member
nice catch, it is fun to restore these machines and yours looks good and you have a (still) working power brick AND scsi disk.
The essential is the recapping of the display, power adapter and mainboard.
There are some useful threads already for that:

RAM related:

recap of power adapter:
Bildschirmfoto 2023-08-04 um 09.22.13.jpg



Caps list ( from 3lectr1cPPC's website ):

Logic Board: 1x 100uf 25v

Display, only if Sharp LQ94D041:

3x 100uf 6v, 1x 47uf 16v, 6x 47uf 6v, 1x 33uf 10v, 1x 22uf 10v, 1x 10uf 25v


my own restoration:
 
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croissantking

Well-known member
I agree that the LCD needs a recap and is probably the cause of that ghosting. The power issues sound like the power supply is marginal. I would crack it open and inspect it for dry joints, and also recap it. But if that doesn’t solve the problems I wouldnt bother trying to go further with a fix for it.
 

jmacz

Well-known member
The essential is the recapping of the display, power adapter and mainboard.
There are some useful threads already for that:

Appreciate this. You saved me some search time.

Sounds like your AC Adapter is failing, no surprise there. I’d just go ahead and rig up a modern solution like myself and other did in this thread: https://68kmla.org/bb/index.php?threads/pb-5xx-original-ac-adapter-re-cap-modern-replacement.38426/
The adapter is definitely weak, the issue is not with the computer

Ok. I'll take a look at the thread.

And yeah it looks like your LCD needs the caps changed. Backlight bleeding is normal.

It's been so long since I had this machine, I can't remember what is normal and what is not :)

I agree that the LCD needs a recap and is probably the cause of that ghosting.

Ok. I will take a look at @3lectr1cPPC 's site and confirm the cap specs with what I'm seeing and go from there.

After fully disassembling the unit, the usual issues are there, broken plastic screw mounts, etc. I am not seeing any obvious capacitor leakage which is good. All ICs next to the electrolytic caps are clean, pins are shiny, so no obvious cap related corrosion which is good.

I saw one big cap on the main board, 2 small caps on the the communications board, 4 caps on the control board (where the display controls are), and 13 caps on the board mounted to the LCD panel. For the two on the communications board and the 13 on the LCD panel board (this one has the Sharp panel), did you guys go with tantalums for these as they are surface mounted?

For the 4 caps on the control board (again where the display controls are), having a hard time reading the specs. Will have to dismount those to get the numbers off of them.

Battery Bay

Not as bad as I thought it would be. There's clearly corrosion on one of the two connectors. But the other one looks ok. But that said, I'm seeing a bunch of white stuff all over the internal chassis. None of it is on the boards, drive, floppy, memory, etc. It's only on the internal chassis plastic which leads me to believe it's intentional. But what is this stuff?

IMG_4845.JPG

IMG_4846.JPG

PRAM Battery

I assume this is the PRAM battery mounted under the palm rest? Is this just two coin batteries attached together in series or ? I guess I will have to search for the specs on this.

IMG_4844.JPG

Power LED

And the power LED is dead. Doesn't light up. I will have to replace this also.

IMG_4859.JPG
 

3lectr1cPPC

Well-known member
What's the communication board you speak of? Which is that?

Any purple caps you see on the inverter are polymers, not electrolytics so they don't need replaced. Only the green ones should need it on the inverter (that's the display controls board).

The inner plastic frame should be metal actually - magnesium probably? That's likely corrosion from the battery. It seems to spread pretty easily on that stuff. I'd clean it up as best you can and then leave it.

I'd use tantalums where possible for caps, then polymers or electrolytics for any values that are too large (like the one on the logic board). Don't use ceramic caps on the LCD, it will cause problems.

The PRAM battery is rechargeable and will only charge if the main battery is present and working. No sense replacing it unless you have a working main battery. For the record though, there is a guy on eBay building and selling them.

The Power LED is likely fine. It's not actually a power LED (despite the labeling), it will only come on when the system is in sleep mode where it will blink. Only time it's on solid would be if the board fails POST where it will go on solid green. At least, that's how it is on the later models. Not sure if the 500 series does the same thing, as they rarely fail POST, logic side they're very reliable.
Put it into sleep mode and see if it blinks.
 

croissantking

Well-known member
IMG_6325.jpeg

This will probably be helpful. I’ve labelled it as 520c, but the 540c uses the exact same inverter board. Just make sure the measurements of your new through-hole caps are not so large that they will foul anything.
 

3lectr1cPPC

Well-known member
Ah excellent! Mind if I use that image on my website? The 220uf is the only one that should need to be changed. The three purple ones are OS-CON polymers.
 

croissantking

Well-known member
Ah excellent! Mind if I use that image on my website? The 220uf is the only one that should need to be changed. The three purple ones are OS-CON polymers.
Yes, please go ahead. I didn’t realise three of them were polymers and I changed them to electrolytics - oops.

Are OS-CONs always polymer?
 

3lectr1cPPC

Well-known member
Thanks! And there isn't any harm in swapping them out, you just don't really need too as they rarely fail and can't leak.
 

croissantking

Well-known member
the 13 on the LCD panel board (this one has the Sharp panel), did you guys go with tantalums for these as they are surface mounted?
IMG_2554.jpeg

Here’s my work on this. It’s a combination of Panasonic and no-name electrolytics. I’m not really a fan of tantalum capacitors as many others here are - it’s a personal choice.
 

jmacz

Well-known member
What's the communication board you speak of? Which is that?

This one (with the modem port on it).

IMG_4850.JPG

The inner plastic frame should be metal actually - magnesium probably? That's likely corrosion from the battery. It seems to spread pretty easily on that stuff. I'd clean it up as best you can and then leave it.

Ok, it has a gray coating on it so thought it was plastic. Fun.

I'd use tantalums where possible for caps, then polymers or electrolytics for any values that are too large (like the one on the logic board). Don't use ceramic caps on the LCD, it will cause problems.

👍

The PRAM battery is rechargeable and will only charge if the main battery is present and working. No sense replacing it unless you have a working main battery. For the record though, there is a guy on eBay building and selling them.

Oh.. it's rechargeable. Would it still be functional after all this time? I intend on doing some battery work but it's going to be a while before I get there. Hmm, if it's rechargeable then I probably can't just replace it with some alkaline battery.

The Power LED is likely fine. It's not actually a power LED (despite the labeling), it will only come on when the system is in sleep mode where it will blink. Only time it's on solid would be if the board fails POST where it will go on solid green. At least, that's how it is on the later models. Not sure if the 500 series does the same thing, as they rarely fail POST, logic side they're very reliable.
Put it into sleep mode and see if it blinks.

Oh? Hmm... Ok will need to test that once I get the whole thing back together. Interesting.

This will probably be helpful. I’ve labelled it as 520c, but the 540c uses the exact same inverter board. Just make sure the measurements of your new through-hole caps are not so large that they will foul anything.

Thanks!!
 

croissantking

Well-known member
Great soldering there! Mind if I use that image too?
Sure you can. You may wish to use this other photo too, which has the other two caps.

IMG_2555.jpeg

I’m fairly sure I took the LCD unit apart to get better access to the board with all the caps. It’s not a super easy job.
 

jmacz

Well-known member
Here’s my work on this. It’s a combination of Panasonic and no-name electrolytics. I’m not really a fan of tantalum capacitors as many others here are - it’s a personal choice.

Nice! Yeah, I think I will go with tantalums.
 

3lectr1cPPC

Well-known member
Just about none of the PRAM batteries charge anymore. Best I had was a PowerBook 1400 PRAM battery (exactly same as the 500 series ones) that I think made it up a couple volts (but not enough to work). But please please please don't ever replace any backup batteries with alkaline ones, ever! Those things leak basically always after only a couple of years. Even for the weird block batteries in some desktop macs, there's no good point in putting Alkalines back in when lithium AAs and AAAs are so widespread.

If you'd like one with the proper cells, there's a guy on eBay building new ones: https://www.ebay.com/itm/325598692922
But it won't ever recharge unless a working main battery is installed, as I believe the PRAM battery is charged off of the main one.

And thanks croissantking!
 

croissantking

Well-known member
I'm seeing a bunch of white stuff all over the internal chassis. None of it is on the boards, drive, floppy, memory, etc. It's only on the internal chassis plastic which leads me to believe it's intentional. But what is this stuff?
This happened to one of my chassis, after I left it next to a slightly open window during heavy rain and it got wet. I couldn’t clean the white stuff off!
 

3lectr1cPPC

Well-known member
Yeah I think it's just corrosion. My Dell Latitude CS is built out of a lot of magnesium and is all like that, from both the CMOS battery that leaked and likely also being stored away in a damp basement for years. It also happened to @techknight on one of his Duos, likely from battery corrosion, poor storage before he got it, or because of the vinegar syndrome on the screen leeching corrosive chemicals onto it while the lid was closed.
 

croissantking

Well-known member
But it won't ever recharge unless a working main battery is installed, as I believe the PRAM battery is charged off of the main one.
I built a new one myself using the correct VL2303 coin cells and I can confirm it doesn’t work - probably for the reason you state.
 
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