• Updated 2023-07-12: Hello, Guest! Welcome back, and be sure to check out this follow-up post about our outage a week or so ago.
3lectr1cPPC
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  • And all happy again. Now booting off an 8GB SD card!
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    Just went to burn a CD meant to read in old disc drives and accidentally started at max burn speed...
    :cry:
    ClassicGuyPhilly
    ClassicGuyPhilly
    Look on the bright side, CD-Rs are now cheap. First 3-pack I bought in 1997 cost $18 ($34 today). I made a mix-CD for myself and my gf, luckily only got a bad burn first blank, second and third worked.
    3lectr1cPPC
    3lectr1cPPC
    I have a big stack of 100 of them (less now since I got them a while back) so it’s no big deal, just hate wasting discs.
    CC_333
    CC_333
    Think of it as a backup copy. Say you want to make another copy, and for reasons unknown, all your copies of the image file go missing and you can't redownload it anywhere. All you need to do is image the disk that was burned too fast and then burn that image to a new disk at the slow speed. Thus, the original disk is not wasted!
    My TiBook just managed last night to pull a 2 hour uptime out of it's previously near dead battery. Oh, and the BMS glitched and set the capacity to near the 16-bit integer limit...
    IMG_4909.jpegIMG_4909.jpeg
    3lectr1cPPC
    3lectr1cPPC
    Last time I did a runtime test, it managed 15 minutes thereabouts. And only around 45 when I first got it. I haven’t got a clue why it suddenly had a change of heart!
    Does anyone know the model number of the Portable M5126 LCD? I swear someone posted it somewhere but I can't find it. Part of me thinks it remembers it being the same as the M5120, just with a backlight attached. Not sure though.
    I don’t know guys. I’ve been seeing this thing called “NuBus” but I’m pretty sure that it’s quite old…
    Speaking of your site, you should probably remove the se30forever link from your web ring, the domain lapsed and it redirects to some scam or virus link or something now.
    Daniël
    Daniël
    Scammers always look for lapsing domains. Either to claim ownership and "offer" it for sale to someone with a similar domain for an exorbitant price (they'll try and keep you on the leash 'til the domain lapses and they can snap it up cheap to flip), or indeed, for phishing, viruses or other nastiness.
    Daniël
    Daniël
    Which brings me to a fun story, techandmusic.com had this happen, it was about to lapse and I kept getting "offers" from scammers to buy it from them. I kept an eye out, and managed to snap it up myself. If it wasn't for the scammers, I wouldn't have known! :D
    3lectr1cPPC
    3lectr1cPPC
    Haha yeah, I read about that on your blog a while back. Great story!
    I accidentally ordered 100uf 25v caps instead of 35v ones for my PB 1400 project. :(
    3lectr1cPPC
    3lectr1cPPC
    The absolute worst bit was getting the center screen clutch cover off. Also how it’s near impossible to not break a display housing clip. Overall it’s just a lot of parts, a lot of screws, and it’s a lot more involved than other models. The benefit of that is that it feels much more solid than other models.
    LaPorta
    LaPorta
    I’d love to see a thread in this. If you need any tips, I’ve taken apart several at this point.
    3lectr1cPPC
    3lectr1cPPC
    sureeee
    The rubber bumpers on this PowerBook 500 Series charger haven’t melted yet. Very rare to see it seems, just thought it was interesting.
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    I believe that surface contact over time is what causes them to melt. I left this one rubber-down for around a week and it started getting stuck to it!
    joshc
    joshc
    You could try some isopropyl on them but if they've already disintegrated a lot you may as well remove them unless you want your AC adapter to stick to things a lot. :LOL:
    3lectr1cPPC
    3lectr1cPPC
    It’s not sticky in the slightest to my touch, it’s only after being left on a surface for some time that they start to stick. My bet is that there’s extremely weak and fragile chemically in their age, and would likely melt quick if I left it sitting on something for a few months.
    My IIsi RAM came in! Maxed out and set up with a totally era appropriate monitor.
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    (It’s all I’ve got that syncs on green)
    3lectr1cPPC
    3lectr1cPPC
    Yep it’s been fully recapped by the previous owner, PSU as well. Soft power can be flakey but works most of the time. Would you happen to know where I could source the replacement crystals to overclock it? It’s something I would like to do.
    Phipli
    Phipli
    The hardest thing is desoldering the old one. I recommend fitting a socket, so you can switch it back to stock easily if you feel like it. Then you just need something like this - a bog standard 50MHz, 5V Clock Oscillator :

    Phipli
    Phipli
    If you get a standard, cheap, 14 pin DIP socket (with the standard wiper contacts, NOT turned pin), you can actually push all but the 4 corner contacts out with a pair of pliers from the other side.
    I can’t wait to replace this capacitor!
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    • Like
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    LaPorta
    LaPorta
    I agree with the above. Also, the remaining plastic base is usually able to be crushed between the jaws of the same pliers you used to remove the cap body. It will usually crack in half around the leg openings, making two easy pieces to take out.
    3lectr1cPPC
    3lectr1cPPC
    I usually have the base come off with the can the way I do it. I grab the base with the cap. I know some people avoid doing it that way, but it's never caused me any damage, never.
    Sideburn
    Sideburn
    I do the same (utility knife Snap Off Blades and Caption tape) and a hot air gun. works good.. The long break away knife blades. You can also cover it with tin foil but I am not sure how well that works.

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    Why is Canon of all companies behind that? I’ve never heard of them making mice or calculators before, let alone both!
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