Recent content by 3lectr1cPPC

I believe with the 2.5 drives that’s it’s only the original GoDrive that has the under platter bumper. The Daytona and Europa are only in the head mechanism.

Was. Was so strong. Unfortunately, it’s starting to go brittle now, just like the earlier PowerBooks. I ran into this when disassembling mine last year. I had some cracked standoffs and other similar problems.

This is great news! My Pismo has one snapped hinge and the other is very weak, so if you do end up bringing replacement hinges to market, I would definitely be a buyer!

One thing to consider is that the Clamshells are super expensive and the snow iBooks are not. The 500 and 600MHz ones should be a lot more reliable than the 700-900MHz ones because they have a way less hot-running video chip, and probably use leaded solder anyway since they're 01/02 instead of...

Not sure... I don't think replacements are available though. Just not 100% sure what the flyback issue would present as on these monitors.

Uh oh. Isn’t that the one monitor where 100% of the flyback transformers were manufactured poorly and go out?

Top left is for a 190/5300, a 3400, or a Kanga. Can’t tell which since they look nearly the same. Bottom left is for a 1400 Bottom right is for a 1400, i think. The right middle one is for a Duo And I can’t tell what the top right one is.

After so long, I'm surprised that none of the admins have just taken the 2 minutes to copy and paste them into a forum thread: Registration Agreement Terms Welcome to the 68kMLA. Before you finish your registration, you must agree to some terms of using the web site. Service is provided on a...

I actually do have a spare Toshiba TFT cable but shipping to Canada may be a bit of a pain.

The cable is specific to each screen type and manufacturer, so you will need a Toshiba TFT cable in order to use that screen.

If you're really lucky, it's just an open via or trace on the panel's PCB. Chances are though that the caps damaged connections in the driver ribbon that sits right next to them, in which case that panel is toast. Look really close at the cable next to the caps and check for dark spots (corrosion).

Someone sent me the Apple schematics for the Macintosh Classic II! They are now available on MacDat: https://macdat.net/repair/apple_schematics.html

Time for some glider 4 :)