PowerBook Duo battery replacement

[bigmessowires]

Maybe the progression of diagrams is way confusing. They're all labeled for identity and filename. I've been working toward making a final post with the diagrams of all three Duo Bats from Apple and my two BTI Bats all together.

I'm not clear what the middle diagram (FrankenPack) is. Am I right, your goal is to build a new battery (first diagram) that's internally identical to the BTI battery (third diagram)?

Could you please do a rough sketch of what your Type I battery circuitry was before you moved everything around and give me the model number? :?:

I'm afraid I can't give a diagram, since I already tore the whole thing apart, but I described it several posts back. Replace your green board with the ID chip that looks like a transistor, eliminate the orange wire, and you've basically got it. The model number of my Type I is M7782 and my Type III is M1499.

Could the extra wiring a/o screw down barrier strip cause any electrical signal or power transmission problems? :?:

I'm not exactly sure what you mean, but as long as you're not creating a short circuit on bare metal somewhere, just having some extra metal inside shouldn't cause any problems. It's a battery and power cable, not a radio.

 

[Trash80toHP_Mini]

Very good, it's full speed ahead in that case. THX, big.

 

[futurebiscuit]

A quick record of my successful Powerbook duo Type 3 battery rebuild.

This thread seems to have most of the available info on the subject so I thought I would add to it with my experience...

After reading through this thread I decided to go with 1600mAh 2/3A NiMH cells.

They match the capacity of the original 4/5A cells but give some room to easily reconstruct the cell (and are a bit cheaper).

First I used a Dremel like cutting disc tool to carefully cut through the seams at the sides and front of the pack. The back seam with the external contacts then snaps easily. 

The cells I used had metal tabs already attached that I lightly soldered together to replicate the original structure including the 2 safety fuses.

Everything fits back in the pack very easily. Although the cutting tool has left quite a gap in the sides of the pack but is fully hidden when the battery is inserted into the machine so doesn't really matter.

I haven't gone through a full discharge/charge but the battery control strip on my Powerbook duo 2300c shows about 1 hour 30 mins. I was expecting more... but it's far better than not having any battery!

The cells I used were sourced from here. Although I purchased them from there eBay shop as it worked out slightly cheaper:

https://www.componentshop.co.uk/1-2v-1600mah-nimh-2-3a-single-cell.html

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-2V-NiMH-Single-Cells-with-Tags-All-SIZES-for-DIY-custom-battery-packs/231512711506

Original dead corroding cells in the battery after opening:



Compare new and old cells:



Reconstructed battery pack with smaller modern cells:

 

[Sideburn]

I bought the same 2/3A batteries from the same link above and they are too wide to fit in the enclosure. At least the replica one I have modeled to 3d print. They are wider than standard AA batteries right?

Can I use higher Mah batteries? Would these work for example:

Amazon.com

 

[Sideburn]

Finished my repro pack. I used the Ternegy 2000mah AA batts. I get 2 hours minimum from battery amnesia.

Unfortunately I don’t have a way yet to duplicate the serial number on the DS2400 chips so an original battery is still required to build a pack.

 

[aladds]

Unfortunately I don’t have a way yet to duplicate the serial number on the DS2400 chips so an original battery is still required to build a pack.

An arduino can do it. I'd look at the ATTiny chips.

 

[Sideburn]

I know you can read data off of a DS2300 using an ardiuono but havent found out how to emulate the chip itself. would you need any support hardware or could you do it with the ATTiny by itself?

 

[aladds]

The link in my post above has a very short code snippet which does the emulation we'd need. 1-wire isn't a complex protocol, and the only "difficult" part might be powering the ATTiny chip - theoretically a resistor/capacitor would probably do it from the data line, but considering how little data it needs to transmit even that might be unnecessary.

I have a Type 3 battery I've re-celled so if I get a moment over the next few days I can try it out.

 

[Sideburn]

Ooops! I didn’t notice the link