-
Updated 2023-07-12: Hello, Guest! Welcome back, and be sure to check out this follow-up post about our outage a week or so ago.
New to me PB180...it's dead Jim...
- Thread starter at0z
- Start date
desertrout
Well-known member
oh snap - I didn't think to take a measurement before linking 
twelvetone12
Well-known member
How big are the pads? Probably you can fit it with a generous blob of solder.
desertrout
Well-known member
Yeah, or some other means of extending the leads (or pads)...
BUT - I'm really curious about the actual specs of the original part. In addition to neglecting to check the package size, I should have also looked more closely at the diode's specs, as the 13V rating seems high; I'd think it should be closer to 8V if it's for protection (at least over-voltage). This begs all kinds of questions about the marking, since I can't find any other reference for 'KW' than DDZ13B, and I also can't find a zener with DDZ13B's specs in a SMB gull wing package. It very well may be the device code is a coincidence.
In the meantime @SuperSVGA is correct in that you can run the machine without it - even if just to test.
SuperSVGA
Well-known member
It's more likely for reverse polarity protection. Except now it's failed and current is flowing in both directions.
Removed from the board it tests conductive in both directions...
Well funny enough the guy I got it from didn't have a power brick so I'm wondering if someone tried to power it from a third party adaptor in which the polarity was wrong and that's what killed it.
I can only find the DDZ13BS in the super tiny packages....
Yes, all I had to go on was the KW marking....
now why didn't I think of that...
SuperSVGA
Well-known member
1SMB5928 probably works fine, I think it's J-lead but should fit. The gull wing style like the original seems harder to find.
MacUp72
Well-known member
how does your diode read? If the zener diode reads low resistances in both directions, this is a sign that the diode is shorted.
a guy solved the problem with his pb180 not turning on by reclacing the Zener Diode, iFixit.
datasheet of the DDZ13B:
if it difficult to solder the tiny diode to the pads: solder an additional wire to the end of it, then solder one end of the diode down to the board and after that just connect the end of the wire to the other pad. (desertrout also suggested this).
power brick, I didnt have an original brick with my pb 160, only a replacement unit, it did output around 10V at 2A ( altough it read only 5V on the label), it started fine.
a guy solved the problem with his pb180 not turning on by reclacing the Zener Diode, iFixit.
datasheet of the DDZ13B:
if it difficult to solder the tiny diode to the pads: solder an additional wire to the end of it, then solder one end of the diode down to the board and after that just connect the end of the wire to the other pad. (desertrout also suggested this).
power brick, I didnt have an original brick with my pb 160, only a replacement unit, it did output around 10V at 2A ( altough it read only 5V on the label), it started fine.
Last edited:
desertrout
Well-known member
That seems to be the way to go... based on @SuperSVGA, the zener you bought is the correct specs, just needs to 'made' to fit (and @MacUp72's like supports this).
PB170
Well-known member
I’ve never heard of this being a problem, but I’m throwing it in here just in case. I’ve noticed on my PowerBook 170 that if any of the keys on the keyboard are pressed when the power button is pressed, nothing happens. Release the key and the computer starts up. I suppose, if any of the keys are stuck it would make the computer appear dead. Might be worth checking out.
Phipli
Well-known member
The 145B is slightly different - I think the FPU footprint got deleted and extra RAM added?
Edit - ah sorry, logic board - I was thinking the CPU board.
Yay that solved it. Replacing the Zener and the tantalum cap next to it (it have me an inconsistent read) brought it back to life. Screen appears to be undamaged, no missing lines and no tunnel vision I can see. Of course I am now getting the flashing question mark because I can't hear the HD spinning or even coughing so I have to assume it died. I don't have any donor spares and I guess most people have replaced with a SCSIHD equivalent ? I've got a BlueSCSI built and waiting to jump into something. Is that the general consensus ? Has anybody 3D printed a mount for such a thing or are they resorting to engineering level use of duct tape ?
I really suspect someone didn't have the right power brick and blew it with the wrong polarity.
I really suspect someone didn't have the right power brick and blew it with the wrong polarity.
3lectr1cPPC
Well-known member
Nice! Good fix. I’m pretty sure the PowerBook BlueSCSIs come with a mount designed for the 100 series already. I just got one in for my 170 as a matter of fact so I’ll be setting that up tonight probably. Got to solder it all up.
Similar threads
