Macintosh SE M5010 - Restoration

[GreenBar0n]

Thanks for the suggestion! This is the Extended KB, and hard to throw this one out, I've had it for about 18 years now. Looks fairly nice, besides the yellow space bar. I'll tear it down and see if it can possibly live again, it would add to the overall goal to have this one fixed. If I can't, I'll source another. Thanks again!

 

[GreenBar0n]

...Forgot its an SE not SE/30 you only have 4mb of memory to play with, look at memory being used in Basilisk!

Are you saying I should make the Baillisk II, 7.5.5 image, use all of the same specs that are in my physical SE?

I was under the impression you could use any spec for the Video, CPU, and RAM in Basillisk II, and yet the physical SE would figure out the actual possible specs on its own.


I'll copy this modified 512x384, 4Mb, 7.5.5 image to the SD card, and give it a try to see if I still get those same two errors shown earlier.

 

[GreenBar0n]

Got the same two errors with the corrected hardware spec image, tried unplugging the KB too, to see if that had something to do with this, same issue no matter what.

Going to give up on 7.5.5, and focus on 7.0.1.

 

[GreenBar0n]

Got the KB broken down.


Will peroxide the space bar today.


A couple of suspicious spots, and oxidation on the bottom of the PCB.


Tested this area with a DMM for continuity, the traces look bad, but they are connected still. Will most likely run a jumper wire over the worst looking spots, just to be sure the oxidation doesn't progress, for some reason.



Here's the first broken trace that I've found, there are bound to be more in that area too, still.


Looks like all the damage is to the bottom of the PCB. Removing all of those Alps switches from the PCB, so the black top board comes off, is probably not going to happen. If fixing the broken traces on the bottom doesn't produce a 100% working KB, I'll source another board.

 

[LaPorta]

Personally, I’d go with 6.0.8. That’s where it’s at on an SE.

 

[GreenBar0n]

7.0.1 seemed fairly quick with BlueSCSI, I'll make both the 6.0.8, and 7.0.1 images.

Want to try 7.5.5 again without all the add ons from Savage Taylor, wondering if that's where the Apple Photo Access module that never works, came from.

 

[GreenBar0n]

Cleaned off the PCB, there are no broken traces, was not in the right spot earlier.


Plugged the Extended KB in on the left side port, and nearly all of my keys are working now, including both Shift buttons. The green tombstones are the ones that are extremely flaky, or completely dead, those will be de-soldered and tested, and opened to clean.


Need to figure out why the right side plug is not working correctly.

The Caps Lock light turns on, but I have not seen the Num Lock, or the Scroll Lock light up.

 

[GreenBar0n]

One more peroxide treatment on the space bar, and it should be done.

 

[GreenBar0n]

De-soldered the bad Alps switches. This one had the circular trace flake off:


Looks like water damage on this broken switches legs, some kind of rust.


Are these the ones sometimes called salmon switches?


A continuity check proves these are not conducting when pressed.



Is there a safe method to opening these switches?

 

[LaPorta]

Yes. Those little areas on the side that look like they can press in: they can. You can then take the top off.

 

[GreenBar0n]

These switches are caked with, who knows what, it's not easy to see the tabs press inward. Thanks for that!

 

[GreenBar0n]

This makes more sense.

 

[GreenBar0n]

Was able to get the switches open, I took two apart, and they were very clean inside, not what I expected to see. The contacts are shiny and new in there.

This video explains how to bend the contacts inside to get them to touch again, which is what's wrong my (7) switches.

 

[LaPorta]

I apologize that my explanation wasn't that clear. I have done it before, but I didn't have photos. I had the same contact issue.

 

[GreenBar0n]

I appreciate the reply, thanks! I was so new to the Alps switch overall, none of it made much sense. I've finally got a a grip on it now, thanks to the second YT vid above. I always really appreciate when someone takes their time to make in depth videos like that, commendable.

 

[GreenBar0n]

Received the eject gears from Betterbit today.


Went from Cheddar to Swiss.



Used the same lube as the JDW 800K floppy rebuild video, followed that video carefully throughout.



I only used (3) of those soft vinyl washers, the assembly is solid and stable, seemingly without the fourth.


Completed the first one, not pretty - accidentally rubbed off the blue ink 2F, that was on the head - and missing a soft vinyl washer, but the second 800K floppy will be better.



Looks like it works. I have an 800K Mac SE Tour Disk on the way to test with, but for now, here's the operation while manually releasing the floppy cage/carrier without a floppy in there.

 

[ironborn65]

maybe it's just me ...but don't turn on a floppy drive when it's lying on a metal surface

PF

 

[GreenBar0n]

After all the work I've done here, do you really think I'd risk bridging the circuit board of the floppy?

The floppy chassis can sit on a flat surface without touching anything, there's clearance.

You are welcome to do what you think is best, for you, but don't expect everyone else to agree.

 

[ironborn65]

easy, it was my opinion, a general habit I have with electronics, as I said. If you disagree .. fine to me, do whatever you want, I am not looking for consensus here, I could care no less. Enjoy your Mac,

 

[GreenBar0n]

Coming in to someone's thread, just to say they're doing it wrong, isn't going to go easy. Maybe change the tone of the entrance, to include your specific experience of a time when you saw someone actually bridge their floppy drive sitting it on a flat surface.

I am enjoying this Mac SE so far. Thanks.