Yes, the support keeps the chip at the proper level in the socket for good contact. Don't recall offhand who reported on it here. As I understand it, problems might arise if left missing.I recently saw this video on YouTube where they just cut the entire floor out of the socket. It certainly makes it much easier to solder but presumably the socket floor is there to provide mechanical integrity so I worry this might not be a great solution. I prefer the way @robin-fo did it by working around the floor as much as possible, provided of course that the solder joints themselves are good enough.
Very nice to see that other people are working on the same project. Did you order the green PCB from JLCPCB with the backside already presoldered? If so, would you share a picture please?My specimen is slowly nearing completion after an initial 12 hours shift today. I decided to use PLCC sockets to be able to easily transfer the chips to a second board which I am planning to populate, without having to desolder them a second time.
Yes, the backside is pre-populated (though some inductors are missing; their values are unknown as far as I know).Very nice to see that other people are working on the same project. Did you order the green PCB from JLCPCB with the backside already presoldered? If so, would you share a picture please?
I´m not sure if should order five naked blue boards or five with backside pres.
You did a good solder job, please keep us informed
Hi @craig1410,@superjer2000 haha, I’d be quite happy to stop my day job and refurbish SE/30 boards instead but I suspect it might be a bad business decision! These things are a labour of love I think, rather than a career prospect!
Re using new connectors, in my case the PDC socket was quite badly corroded by the battery bomb so a new one certainly was a necessity. But also, and more generally for other connectors which have soldered mechanical support tabs like the ADB, SCSI, Floppy and Serial connectors, it’s just a hassle to harvest them without causing damage to them in the process. I removed the 25 pin D connector for the external SCSI from my donor board but it was a real struggle to both remove the solder AND get the mechanical fixing posts to disengage. In retrospect probably the way to do it is to just cut most of the PCB away from the connector with a dremel or similar tool and then remove the PCB fragments with hot air or desoldering wick etc.
But even if you succeed, best case you end up with a 30+ year old connector with contact oxidation, mechanical wear and tear and cosmetic defects which seems a shame on what is otherwise largely a “new” board. Now, if you’re on a tight budget or trying to make a profit from this endeavour then you might make different choices because these connectors are not cheap. I’m fortunate this is more of a hobby.
I should also mention that, although I ordered the connector parts from mouser according to the SE/30 BOM spreadsheet, I have not yet received them so can’t confirm personally that the parts in my mouser basket are 100% correct. This includes the PDC, ADB, Serial and 25 pin D sockets. I’m hoping they might arrive today as they were last seen departing France this morning on their way from the US to UK. I’ll post an update once I have them and have confirmed they are the right parts. I’m pretty confident they will be though. All other parts in my mouser basket have already been fitted to my board so all good there.
Good luck with your refurb!
I'm not sure there will be enough distance between the two different mounting holes to keep them from becoming a slot.Yes please (or just shoot it my way in a private message)
I’ll update the board with them - probably keeping both sets of mounting holes just in case.
I'd think any overlapping of the two holes would suffice in this case, assuming here that they'd be added to the laser cut list? Bumpage in a figure 8 pattern "slot" would be a help and a little dab'll do ya for cementing either connector in place? Roughing up or drilling out the exposed surface of either connector might yield superior stickum results?I'm not sure there will be enough distance between the two different mounting holes to keep them from becoming a slot.
Hi, I'm UK based so probably can't offer any direct help but your question got me to thinking whether it would be economically viable to provide a board rebuild service and at what price it might break even. I think to a degree it will depend on how many donor parts are used, especially SIMM sockets and connectors, and also whether chip sockets are used even if only for the DIL chips and not the PLCC chips.This thread is simply amazing. But, considering I have never done "any" soldering and certainly can't due to shaky hands (getting old sucks sometimes). What would it cost and is there anyone interested in making me a SE/30 board if I can provide a donor board? Is it doable for a few hundred dollars?
Ditto that!This thread is simply amazing.
I've tried my hand at build and rework on and off for many years now. When young enough that my hands were rock steady, someone else was doing the soldering and rework whilst I did related things. Steadiness and dexterity has fallen off a bit, but no more so than vision. 20/10 has deteriorated to a corrected 20/15, dollar store readers and no driving restrictions as yet. The kids at work tend to go to the old guy with many and varied experience for help, so that's the nice side of putting some mileage behind you.. . . considering I have never done "any" soldering and certainly can't due to shaky hands (getting old sucks sometimes).
Indeed, could we but get together in the real world to share those beers, efforts and yarns.I hope this helps to illustrate that this really is more of an expensive hobby than a commercially viable enterprise. Of course this forum has many members who are already very generous with their time and might offer to build your board for you for fun or for the price of a few beers. They may well also be more skilled than me or have better equipment which might reduce the labour required.