The ones i am putting on will last as long as the old ones, maybe longer,cap technology is better now adays!
I am going for "stock look " for macdrone, they never came with tantalum caps,
If i was recapping a Q700 board that originally came with those caps then that is what i would use.
Mcdermd has the right idea, it has to look the way it was from factory originally, That is my goal.
Just like some people here say not to twist the caps off, I twist every one off, every time. it works great,
also i leave the snapped off old leads on the pad, no reason to remove them.
- Snap off
- Remove all debris
- Clean leaky goop with a damp paper towel
- buff off corrosion if there is any, or skip this step
- flux
- Swiftly heat up , apply fresh solder
- reflux
- set cap, and heat up each side, if you do it quick enough with the alum can kind it will sit nice and flat just like stock.
if you are not quick it will be crooked, but don't be anal, minimize how much heat you are putting into the pads!
if the cap is sitting cocked, but you can see the solder has flowed and properly, and connected the lead to the pad, just leave it.
- I try to massively limit putting heat on the pad !
The more heat you put into the pad, the more likely it will lift.
Vary rarely do i lift a pad. But some days are bad days,
Also don't be a worry ward, just get in there an replace the caps.
some of you will fail, and even if you do there are pros out there like technight and phreakout that have blue prints
and they can use wirewrap and follow traces, if needed!
I received a IIci from captainbob , He gave it to me for free, lots of pads were ripped clean off. Someone had F^%$#^ this thing all up!
i did some very ugly re-work to make the connections still happen, I had to be vary patient! Was able to make all the connections, it works great now.
