Fizzbinn
Well-known member
*** This content is from a thread lost in the 6/30/2021 outage. I'm reposting attempting to include info (if not images) posted by others. ***
** @Fizzbinn 5/3/2021 **
A while ago I picked up a cheap Duo 230 with a cracked screen that was otherwise working, been on the lookout for parts machine and recently found one that appeared to have a good screen.
Combining them into one did result in a working machine (yay!), but both screen lids had broken hinge area screw stand-offs that needed repair, and before buttoning everything up I thought it would be a good idea to replace the logic board and LCD capacitors too.
Hinge Repair:
There is a lot of info/discussion out there on this problem common to a lot of PowerBooks, the bottom line is the plastic case pieces that secure brass stand-offs crack and break off over time and use which not only leads to non-secured components but also further case damage due to new stress points.
The fixes/repairs all involve finding a way to reestablish a case secured mounting point for the screws in question. Most seem to focus on resecuring the original brass stand-offs but I have seen drill holes and use case external screw nuts.
I had thought about making an ABS slurry with broken bits of other PowerBook plastic and acetone but after some unsuccessful tests I decided use JB Weld PlasticWeld epoxy. I was hopeful as it specifically mentions ABS plastic compatibility.
I cut away the broken/remaining plastic pieces of the brass stand-off support, made sure the brass stand-offs were seated in the remain original depression and applied the epoxy with a wooden chopstick. The thickish epoxy sets relatively quickly but you have plenty of time to work with it. The fact that it spreads seems like a plus to me, more surface area to to bond with.
I think It turned out great, although I guess only time will really tell.
![IMG_1399.jpeg IMG_1399.jpeg](https://forumbucket.us-southeast-1.linodeobjects.com/data/attachments/32/32555-ded4f9e5f1a1bfbe4e86651ad0b790ad.jpg)
![IMG_1402.jpeg IMG_1402.jpeg](https://forumbucket.us-southeast-1.linodeobjects.com/data/attachments/32/32556-fed1da61df432ccc9a2b7d3f13812642.jpg)
![IMG_1404.jpeg IMG_1404.jpeg](https://forumbucket.us-southeast-1.linodeobjects.com/data/attachments/32/32557-3cbda0ad9911646514e9bf020cce6af4.jpg)
** @Fizzbinn 5/4/2021 **
On to the logic board capacitors:
![PB-Duo230-capacitors.png PB-Duo230-capacitors.png](https://forumbucket.us-southeast-1.linodeobjects.com/data/attachments/32/32558-ec2663cdb313e6e1484880ba97e33d81.jpg)
PowerBook Duo 230 (820-0426-D) logic board capacitors:
2 x 100uf - 25v - D:8mm H:10mm (C2, C11)
3 x 100uf - 35v - D:10mm H:10mm (C3, C5, C9)
1 x 330uf - 16v - D:10mm H:10mm (C14)
1 x 33uf - 25v - D:6mm H:6mm (C36)
I didn’t see any leakage so I did hesitate a bit but decided to proceed since I had two working boards and they are bound to leak eventually.
Removing the capacitors turned out to be a bit of a chore, mainly since I didn’t feel comfortable using the twist off method with the larger, non-corroded, cans and how tight they are packed together. I ended up using ChipQuik, a very small amount melted into each pad (with lots of flux) stays liquid long enough that you can remove the caps with a single soldering iron and a gentle nudge.
![IMG_1387.jpeg IMG_1387.jpeg](https://forumbucket.us-southeast-1.linodeobjects.com/data/attachments/32/32559-d85b4e65197211928b5678162c444e3f.jpg)
(Note in this picture I had already replaced C36...)
For the replacement capacitors I decided to use Aluminum Organic Polymer Capacitors and see if I could find smaller diameter equivalents (I could!) to make them easier to install. Here’s what I ended up with along with the Mouser part numbers:
2 x 100uf - 25v - D:6.3mm H:8mm (C2, C11) - 647-PCH1E101MCL4GS
3 x 100uf - 35v - D:8mm H:10mm (C3, C5, C9) - 647-PCZ1V101MCL6GS
1 x 330uf - 20v - D:8mm H:10mm (C14) - 647-PCH1D331MCL6GS
1 x 33uf - 25v - D:5mm H:5.9mm (C36) - 667-25SVPK33M
...and partially reassembled, with my fingers crossed, it passed the start up chime test and proceed to boot just fine!
![IMG_1390.jpeg IMG_1390.jpeg](https://forumbucket.us-southeast-1.linodeobjects.com/data/attachments/32/32560-5b3e81d7e0f41148f091b64d133c6fb4.jpg)
...and partially reassembled, with my fingers crossed, it passed the start up chime test and proceed to boot just fine!
And lastly the LCD panel capacitors:
The passive matrix LCD display was working pretty good from my prospective but again the capacitors would eventually go and I had already had some experience replacing caps like this on my PowerBook 100’s LCD panel.
![IMG_0533.jpeg IMG_0533.jpeg](https://forumbucket.us-southeast-1.linodeobjects.com/data/attachments/32/32561-81b8e0486b752a2f964e936b75608625.jpg)
PowerBook Duo 230 Sharp LCD panel (LM64N794) capacitors:
8 x 3.3uf - 35v - “Plastic Encased Electrolytic” (C1 - C8)
Those are the same quantity and specifications as the capacitors I had replaced in my PowerBook 100 LCD! In that case I had used size B tantalum capacitors but even with their small size it was a somewhat tight fit.
After reading this post I decided to use smaller Multilayer Ceramic Capacitors (thanks @superjer2000!)
<link lost>
Info with Mouser part number:
8 x 3.3uF - 35V - MLCC (C1 - C8) - 810-C3216X7R1V335M6A
Removing the old caps showed a couple had started to leak and corrode their pads.
![IMG_1408.jpeg IMG_1408.jpeg](https://forumbucket.us-southeast-1.linodeobjects.com/data/attachments/32/32562-7660f727a5ddf3e789c44c5cdfa22ff7.jpg)
![IMG_1410.jpeg IMG_1410.jpeg](https://forumbucket.us-southeast-1.linodeobjects.com/data/attachments/32/32563-0a19b7abc9da08baf21353494017b712.jpg)
![IMG_1413.jpeg IMG_1413.jpeg](https://forumbucket.us-southeast-1.linodeobjects.com/data/attachments/32/32564-4d21aae1d3eb2a7b82588cb18ddf2c7a.jpg)
...another partially reassembled test ....and success!
Before:
![IMG_1397.jpeg IMG_1397.jpeg](https://forumbucket.us-southeast-1.linodeobjects.com/data/attachments/32/32565-ba8eb9d90145e0cd065f0abbea5d1015.jpg)
After:
![IMG_1415.jpeg IMG_1415.jpeg](https://forumbucket.us-southeast-1.linodeobjects.com/data/attachments/32/32566-2229e505b7b0ee397740cd3040535dfa.jpg)
Above pictures are with default brightness and contrast. It’s subtle but definitely improved, noticeably less banding overall in use. Re-capped passive matrix screens look pretty good to me! Wonder if the modern capacitors actually perform better than the originals?
** @sutekh 5/4/2021 **
This is the way. ABS / acetone slurry is quite porous after the solvent evaporates and lacks sufficient strength for this application.
** @Fizzbinn 5/3/2021 **
A while ago I picked up a cheap Duo 230 with a cracked screen that was otherwise working, been on the lookout for parts machine and recently found one that appeared to have a good screen.
Combining them into one did result in a working machine (yay!), but both screen lids had broken hinge area screw stand-offs that needed repair, and before buttoning everything up I thought it would be a good idea to replace the logic board and LCD capacitors too.
Hinge Repair:
There is a lot of info/discussion out there on this problem common to a lot of PowerBooks, the bottom line is the plastic case pieces that secure brass stand-offs crack and break off over time and use which not only leads to non-secured components but also further case damage due to new stress points.
The fixes/repairs all involve finding a way to reestablish a case secured mounting point for the screws in question. Most seem to focus on resecuring the original brass stand-offs but I have seen drill holes and use case external screw nuts.
I had thought about making an ABS slurry with broken bits of other PowerBook plastic and acetone but after some unsuccessful tests I decided use JB Weld PlasticWeld epoxy. I was hopeful as it specifically mentions ABS plastic compatibility.
I cut away the broken/remaining plastic pieces of the brass stand-off support, made sure the brass stand-offs were seated in the remain original depression and applied the epoxy with a wooden chopstick. The thickish epoxy sets relatively quickly but you have plenty of time to work with it. The fact that it spreads seems like a plus to me, more surface area to to bond with.
I think It turned out great, although I guess only time will really tell.
![IMG_1399.jpeg IMG_1399.jpeg](https://forumbucket.us-southeast-1.linodeobjects.com/data/attachments/32/32555-ded4f9e5f1a1bfbe4e86651ad0b790ad.jpg)
![IMG_1402.jpeg IMG_1402.jpeg](https://forumbucket.us-southeast-1.linodeobjects.com/data/attachments/32/32556-fed1da61df432ccc9a2b7d3f13812642.jpg)
![IMG_1404.jpeg IMG_1404.jpeg](https://forumbucket.us-southeast-1.linodeobjects.com/data/attachments/32/32557-3cbda0ad9911646514e9bf020cce6af4.jpg)
** @Fizzbinn 5/4/2021 **
On to the logic board capacitors:
![PB-Duo230-capacitors.png PB-Duo230-capacitors.png](https://forumbucket.us-southeast-1.linodeobjects.com/data/attachments/32/32558-ec2663cdb313e6e1484880ba97e33d81.jpg)
PowerBook Duo 230 (820-0426-D) logic board capacitors:
2 x 100uf - 25v - D:8mm H:10mm (C2, C11)
3 x 100uf - 35v - D:10mm H:10mm (C3, C5, C9)
1 x 330uf - 16v - D:10mm H:10mm (C14)
1 x 33uf - 25v - D:6mm H:6mm (C36)
I didn’t see any leakage so I did hesitate a bit but decided to proceed since I had two working boards and they are bound to leak eventually.
Removing the capacitors turned out to be a bit of a chore, mainly since I didn’t feel comfortable using the twist off method with the larger, non-corroded, cans and how tight they are packed together. I ended up using ChipQuik, a very small amount melted into each pad (with lots of flux) stays liquid long enough that you can remove the caps with a single soldering iron and a gentle nudge.
![IMG_1387.jpeg IMG_1387.jpeg](https://forumbucket.us-southeast-1.linodeobjects.com/data/attachments/32/32559-d85b4e65197211928b5678162c444e3f.jpg)
(Note in this picture I had already replaced C36...)
For the replacement capacitors I decided to use Aluminum Organic Polymer Capacitors and see if I could find smaller diameter equivalents (I could!) to make them easier to install. Here’s what I ended up with along with the Mouser part numbers:
2 x 100uf - 25v - D:6.3mm H:8mm (C2, C11) - 647-PCH1E101MCL4GS
3 x 100uf - 35v - D:8mm H:10mm (C3, C5, C9) - 647-PCZ1V101MCL6GS
1 x 330uf - 20v - D:8mm H:10mm (C14) - 647-PCH1D331MCL6GS
1 x 33uf - 25v - D:5mm H:5.9mm (C36) - 667-25SVPK33M
...and partially reassembled, with my fingers crossed, it passed the start up chime test and proceed to boot just fine!
![IMG_1390.jpeg IMG_1390.jpeg](https://forumbucket.us-southeast-1.linodeobjects.com/data/attachments/32/32560-5b3e81d7e0f41148f091b64d133c6fb4.jpg)
...and partially reassembled, with my fingers crossed, it passed the start up chime test and proceed to boot just fine!
And lastly the LCD panel capacitors:
The passive matrix LCD display was working pretty good from my prospective but again the capacitors would eventually go and I had already had some experience replacing caps like this on my PowerBook 100’s LCD panel.
![IMG_0533.jpeg IMG_0533.jpeg](https://forumbucket.us-southeast-1.linodeobjects.com/data/attachments/32/32561-81b8e0486b752a2f964e936b75608625.jpg)
PowerBook Duo 230 Sharp LCD panel (LM64N794) capacitors:
8 x 3.3uf - 35v - “Plastic Encased Electrolytic” (C1 - C8)
Those are the same quantity and specifications as the capacitors I had replaced in my PowerBook 100 LCD! In that case I had used size B tantalum capacitors but even with their small size it was a somewhat tight fit.
After reading this post I decided to use smaller Multilayer Ceramic Capacitors (thanks @superjer2000!)
<link lost>
Info with Mouser part number:
8 x 3.3uF - 35V - MLCC (C1 - C8) - 810-C3216X7R1V335M6A
Removing the old caps showed a couple had started to leak and corrode their pads.
![IMG_1408.jpeg IMG_1408.jpeg](https://forumbucket.us-southeast-1.linodeobjects.com/data/attachments/32/32562-7660f727a5ddf3e789c44c5cdfa22ff7.jpg)
![IMG_1410.jpeg IMG_1410.jpeg](https://forumbucket.us-southeast-1.linodeobjects.com/data/attachments/32/32563-0a19b7abc9da08baf21353494017b712.jpg)
![IMG_1413.jpeg IMG_1413.jpeg](https://forumbucket.us-southeast-1.linodeobjects.com/data/attachments/32/32564-4d21aae1d3eb2a7b82588cb18ddf2c7a.jpg)
...another partially reassembled test ....and success!
Before:
![IMG_1397.jpeg IMG_1397.jpeg](https://forumbucket.us-southeast-1.linodeobjects.com/data/attachments/32/32565-ba8eb9d90145e0cd065f0abbea5d1015.jpg)
After:
![IMG_1415.jpeg IMG_1415.jpeg](https://forumbucket.us-southeast-1.linodeobjects.com/data/attachments/32/32566-2229e505b7b0ee397740cd3040535dfa.jpg)
Above pictures are with default brightness and contrast. It’s subtle but definitely improved, noticeably less banding overall in use. Re-capped passive matrix screens look pretty good to me! Wonder if the modern capacitors actually perform better than the originals?
** @sutekh 5/4/2021 **
2 hours ago, Fizzbinn said:
I had thought about making an ABS slurry with broken bits of other PowerBook plastic and acetone but after some unsuccessful tests I decided use JB Weld PlasticWeld epoxy. I was hopeful as it specifically mentions ABS plastic compatibility.
This is the way. ABS / acetone slurry is quite porous after the solvent evaporates and lacks sufficient strength for this application.