Fair enoughWell if anyone would like to send me a working battery for free, I'd be happy to test that out![]()
Fair enoughWell if anyone would like to send me a working battery for free, I'd be happy to test that out![]()
The calibration always seems to take a complete discharge/recharge cycle, or two, for EMMPathy to show the measured capacity in mAh. The default after a reset is 1752, mine seems to have come down to 1680. What’s yours?
Meanwhile I’m having a search to find whether anyone with a working battery has connected VBatt and VMain together (to use a replacement power supply). We’ve had people running the machine off VBatt (instead of a dead VMain) and we have people with USB-C PD-supplied VMain, but I don’t think anyone has run the machine and charged the battery with VMain and VBatt both from a single source?
As for the Sleep problem, have you tried that ‘sleep fix’ extension that I think came with EMMPathy? I‘ll check my machine soon. I also wonder if that might be hard-drive related, since spinning up the drive and waiting for it to become available seems part of waking up.
It sounds a bit like the problem I was having when the ribbon was making poor contact to the battery cells (corrosion…) - voltage seemed correct but the measured current was irregular when charging, and then it didn’t detect at all. To fix it, I soldered wires between the battery tabs and the circuit boards.
It sounds a bit like the problem I was having when the ribbon was making poor contact to the battery cells (corrosion…) - voltage seemed correct but the measured current was irregular when charging, and then it didn’t detect at all. To fix it, I soldered wires between the battery tabs and the circuit boards.
Then again, it also reminds me of my 520c that wouldn’t run on battery - it was the terminal inside the machine that needed cleaning up. The crystals scraped off revealing a still-gold finger. I hope you’re similarly lucky with yours.
Hmmmm... I'm sorry to have wasted your time on those things.The contacts inside the laptop were clean, but cleaned them further anyway, used deoxit, etc. That didn't help.
I ran wires straight from the board to the internal laptop contacts and also straight from the board to the battery. That didn't help either.
Something further must be wrong with this board. Already had to replace two components on this thing, but there must be more damage somewhere.
This is typical behavior in most laptops from this era if the CMOS/PRAM battery is dead. Have you replaced it in yours?I noticed fairly early on that inserting a good battery in my 520 does not allow it to start, until it is powered up with the AC adapter and allowed to detect the battery. Then, the 520 can be shut down, the AC adapter removed, and only then will it start off battery. I presumed that was standard behaviour. From this, I guess any fault that prevents the EMM board from communicating will prevent the battery from being used at all.
Hmmmm... I'm sorry to have wasted your time on those things.
This is typical behavior in most laptops from this era if the CMOS/PRAM battery is dead. Have you replaced it in yours?
Ah, I have not, thanksThis is typical behavior in most laptops from this era if the CMOS/PRAM battery is dead. Have you replaced it in yours?
I guess I wouldn’t write it off until it’s proven that 12 ohms is too low for that part of the circuit. It seems like not much is known about the EMM. I agree, 12 ohms would be too low for a purely digital circuit, but I’ve found that power/analog circuits are less predictable. For example, the output of a switching regulator can have a DC resistance that is of a similar magnitude, but is actually totally fine and expected.I was measuring the same 12 ohms between the chip's ground pin and another pin.
I guess I wouldn’t write it off until it’s proven that 12 ohms is too low for that part of the circuit. It seems like not much is known about the EMM. I agree, 12 ohms would be too low for a purely digital circuit, but I’ve found that power/analog circuits are less predictable. For example, the output of a switching regulator can have a DC resistance that is of a similar magnitude, but is actually totally fine and expected.
I guess I’d hang onto this battery and try to compare it to another (ideally a known good battery) before concluding that 12 ohms indicated a short.
LMK which pins it is on the chip and I can test with my known good EMMs. I can do any tests you need as long as they don’t actually require battery cells hooked up.
Both mine passed EMMpathy before taking them apart, but didn’t hold enough voltage to actually run the computer.
Will test tomorrow!