Macintosh SE M5010 - Restoration

GreenBar0n

Well-known member
Got the axial caps installed.
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But without touching anything else, my screen is a bit blurry or out of focus now, and way too bright, the knob can't go low enough. There are also horizontal lines through out the picture.
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Is there a good link to how to adjust the SE picture, after a recap? Everything works, it just looks really bad at the moment.

Thanks!
 

GreenBar0n

Well-known member
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Mounting the NP film cap like this on the analog board, has caused very minor distortions in the picture. The frame rate seems slightly lower, with nearly imperceptible flicker, and when bold graphics are loaded, the screen bulges past the vertical boundaries, very slightly, and in direct response to the graphics being displayed.

Went back and watched the JDW Analog board video, and will redo my NP film cap to match his @29:13
 

GreenBar0n

Well-known member
Got the NP film cap oriented correctly, and removed the yellow glue, and put the clear back on.
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That fixed the picture noise, and distortions with graphics, especially the Welcome to Macintosh box on boot.

Still waiting on those Alps switches.
 

GreenBar0n

Well-known member
Decided to recap the logic board, and keyboard axial capacitors while I wait for Alps switches.

My logic board has (11) caps total, (10) 33µF 16V, and (1) 1µF 50V.
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M0115 Extended Keyboard has (3) 1µF 50V caps.
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Will order this all tonight.

The Hakko FR-301 is like cheating, makes this all too easy.
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GreenBar0n

Well-known member
3D Printed the BlueSCSI back panel tray, for the desktop v2 model.
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Next to the included tray.
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My SE is missing the PDS support frame, that metal bracket. I have (2) 800K floppies, so I think it was removed when they added the HDD at some point.
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Recapped the Logic Board.
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Test fitting the BlueSCSI back panel tray, should fit fine with a PDS bracket.
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Logic board works.
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Got tired of waiting for the sub-standard Alps clone switches, and bought a grimy looking M0115 from ebay for $62 with no cable. Going to cobble together a nice working M0115 KB from all of these parts, and complete with the salmon colored switches, and a fresh jacket/logo. Getting close to finally being able to enjoy this.

Also ordered a Noctua NF-A6x25 fan.

That MacPerformer SE Accelerator looks nice too, wish they made a kit, more fun building them.
 

JC8080

Well-known member
Here's a link to my build post.

 

GreenBar0n

Well-known member
BlueSCSI provides a kit with all the pieces for assembly, that's about as far as I go. Paying extra for more boards, and rounding up all the components, wouldn't be the fun I was looking for, I like the assembly. Thanks though!
 

GreenBar0n

Well-known member
The M0115 Keyboard is due to arrive today. It looks pretty foul in the ebay pics, hope the keys all work.
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Also, the Noctua AF-A6x25 case fan I ordered, turned out to be the 3-pin version, which is 5V and won't work.

The 4-pin AF-A6x25 is the 12V model, and the correct fan - currently waiting on the correct one.
 

GreenBar0n

Well-known member
Very true! The pictures made it look worse than it appeared in person. Was still filthy though.
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Took it apart and cleaned it immediately. The best part is there were no spilled drinks, and 0 corrosion anywhere. Stoked! Need to pull all the keys to get the grime in between, but a surface clean made it look new again.
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I purchased this specific M0115 because of how close it was in serial number to my current M0115, about 130K apart, thinking the switches would be the same. Apparently the earlier M0115 had orange Alps switches.
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Sometime after an 800K serial number, they were salmon colored Alps switches.
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Since my SE is unassembled and in a pile on the floor still, from that incorrect Noctua 5V/12V fan debacle, I can't test it without putting it back together. Will wait until the fan gets here, then test the M0115, pretty sure it's going to work without issue, but will pull all the keys and clean and inspect it thoroughly.
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GreenBar0n

Well-known member
Got the PDS support bracket today, for use with BlueSCSI. Would fit absolutely perfect -
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- if I didn't have the top floppy.
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I need to adjust the printed tray, to allow for the extra length of the 50-pin SCSI cable.
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Don't need much more room, but going to have to figure it out, and edit the STL, then re-print the tray (I'm lucky if I can print 3D, CAD is new to me still). Have a friend that may be able to help with the design edit.
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GreenBar0n

Well-known member
Those keys had some grime that soaking wouldn't remove, had to physically rub all (5) sides of each key with a paper towel, and there still looks to be stains. The board was covered in fine dust, almost like sand.
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What's with the salmon colored Caps Lock key?

Getting ready to replace the (3) caps, and peroxide the space bar and all keys.

That Noctua fan is not available anywhere right now, has a 1 month lead time from Amazon. May put the stock fan back, and make a socket for the stock blk/ylw wires when the 4-pin Noctua gets here.
 

LaPorta

Well-known member
The stock fan isn't a bad unit. You can always get replacement fans of the same type if the original is a bit loud.
 

GreenBar0n

Well-known member
There was a good video posted somewhere of the Noctua fan's CFM and acoustics versus a stock fan, can't find that YT vid now, but the results were pretty definitive. That might be why the 12v version is hard to get at the moment.
 

GreenBar0n

Well-known member
Rather than editing the BlueSCSI tray STL file, I ordered a 50-pin Box Header that is not 90° angled.
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That should have the right amount of clearance if the cable connects from the top of the board instead of the edge.

Still no Noctua AF-6X25 PWM 12V fan anywhere in site.
 
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GreenBar0n

Well-known member
Stains between the keys that couldn't be easily wiped away.
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Recapped the M0115 and used a 10W UV LED on the space bar, with the 12% hair creme, indoors, and it was much easier to control the process this way.
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Was able to stop the whitening before it became a different shade than the rest of the keys.
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The 10W UV light I have won't be big enough for the M0115 case, will have to do that outside on the next sunny day. Will remove the badge before the process.
 
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