Compact Frame Restoration (After a Maxel-Massacare)

[Ike]

So, chances are, when you buy a compact mac, the red little devils did go kaboom.

IMAG0172.jpg[/attachment]

Now that's an amazing improvement, isn't it?

Little bit of more cleaning:

IMAG0180.jpg[/attachment]

 

[Ike]

And after a little bit of sanding and buffing:

[attachment=1]IMAG0177.jpg[/attachment]

[attachment=0]IMAG0183.jpg[/attachment]

Then it is coated with Zink-spray. That is drying as we speak.

 

[techknight]

Yea, good thing you used the spray as otherwise it would start rusting again.

 

[uniserver]

did the motherboard get hit? obviously you are going to need a new battery holder…

 

[bibilit]

did the motherboard get hit

Yes, i was about to ask the same question, doesn't look too bad.

 

[Ike]

It did hit the board but not a lot!

The parts that were most hit is the Audio jack, the Real Time Clock circuit and the sound chip.

funny enough, the reason this board was checker-boarding is most likely because of bad caps, not because of the battery leakage.

One of the serial ports is also quite corroded, still have to measure the continuity there with a good serial cable.

Also, this is the board I talked to you about Uniserver

 

[uniserver]

yeah i think you should contact mcdermd and just pay him $75-100 for a good recapped replacement classic board.

I think its wonderful that you want to fix it… but i just don't see it ever working again… by all means try if you would like.

but i doubt its ever going to work again. just saying.

maybe you could contact scott B as well, he's got a dead classic board might let go for 20 or so bucks + shipping

 

[Ike]

Not to be the annoying little kid Uni, but any reason in particular that I might not be able to get it to work?

The Classic is well known for checker-boarding with bad caps. There is not rust build op whatsoever.

Apart from the RTC circuit nothing is really damaged, at least nothing that should keep the machine from booting.

All the badly corroded vias are going to ground, so at least I want to give it a shot!

I knew that I was in for an adventure when I bought a known not-working machine, that was the whole reason for me buying it.

 

[uniserver]

Not to be the annoying little kid

haha, acutely i don't find you to be any different then someone that is a senior

and its cool that you want to fix it.

My suggestion is that if that is really what you think, then just change the caps now and see what you get.

before you spend all kinds of (money)

all you need is:

6 - 47uf 17v caps

1 - 1uf 50v cap

[attachment=0]Screen Shot 2013-12-28 at 4.02.35 AM.png[/attachment]

the rtc on the se/30 is not going to work.

the head phone jack seems slightly different.

the reset/pgm buttons don't really matter for functionality right now.

so do that re-cap and see if see if she comes back to life, if yes, then you must have a little jesus on your side, if no

then its more like what i would expect.

 

[Ike]

That idea makes sense, I agree.

Spent the last days cleaning the pads for the caps, Ordered some solder wick and some new caps.

When I have de-soldered the rusty parts I'm going to dish-wash the board to get the goo out under the chips.

Then we'll see what it does ^^ I'll let you know of course.

 

[mcdermd]

I always find that the dishwasher always makes a bigger mess than it cleans up. I'd suggest warm water and a toothbrush. Blow it out well with compressed air afterward. It will work much better than the dishwasher and probably take less time too.

 

[TheMacGuy]

I agree with mcdermd. I tried that on some RAM DIMMs that came with the Cube (insides were drenched in Soda) and that got them working. They've been working fine to this day in the Sawtooth and Cube.

 

[IIciNov90]

Ike,

Thanks for sharing this. The horrors of your Maxell Massacre inspired me to finally get going on my SE/30s and led to my recent post.

viewtopic.php?f=7&t=22672&p=223214#p223214

I think I caught them just in time. One of my 2 had the Maxell battery.

Brian

 

[IIciNov90]

BTW, I am about to clean my 2 SE/30 boards. I plan to use a warm solution of Alconox detergent solution. I cleaned my Iici board with it then rinsed it in warm deionized water and it got all of the leaky CAP scum off of it. It got the board so clean that it literally sparkled but it did help to reveal that there was a little bit of crust left around the solder pads on a few of the chips. I was then able to scrape it off without damaging the pads or solder joints using the splintered end of a wooden shaft cotton swab (Q-tip) that was purposely broken.

My old thread on the Iici board cleaning and recap.

viewtopic.php?f=8&t=12189

The broken wooden Q-tip trick I learned from watching a painter clean out stuck paint residue in the nooks and crannies in HVLP spray guns.

Brian

 

[Ike]

Cr@psickles! Horizontal zebra-stripes with a few loose pixels at the left part of the screen.

Uniserver was right.

FOR NOW }

 

[ScutBoy]

The broken wooden Q-tip trick I learned from watching a painter clean out stuck paint residue in the nooks and crannies in HVLP spray guns.
Brian

You can also buy a package of bamboo skewers at the grocery store for a buck or two that work great for this sort of thing.