17" ADC Studio Display base split

[tom7447]

hey all

I've recently come into a problem with the support (stand/base/whatever you want to call it) cracking on my Studio Display. It has unfortunately split right through now and no longer supports the monitor . I've tried super gluing it to no avail (It just split again under the weight)

Just to make clear which model it is, here's the link to the EveryMac page:

http://www.everymac.com/monitors/apple/studio_cinema/specs/apple_studio_display_17_cl.html

I was wondering if anyone had any repair advice or knows how to remove the base and/or replace it with a new one (and where to get a base)?

I really want to keep using it as it's a beautiful display with great colour. I for one love the ADC cable, keeps cable clutter to a minimum.

any help apreciated

also if anyone in Australia has one they'd sell me? i'd consider, if i can't do anything for this one.

cheers

 

[trag]

I've recently come into a problem with the support (stand/base/whatever you want to call it) cracking on my Studio Display. It has unfortunately split right through now and no longer supports the monitor . I've tried super gluing it to no avail (It just split again under the weight)

If you have the time, you might locate a local plastics/polycarbonate distributer similar to this company: http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/default.aspx?catid=795&parentcatid=-1 and take your stand there and ask them if they can tell which plastic it is made of and do they have a good adhesive for it.

Failing that, I'd try a 30 minute two-part epoxy. Super Glue just doesn't do a very good job of bonding that kind of thing. Good old, I-had-to-mix-it-up-myself epoxy works much better.

But, depending on the plastic used in the base, there may be a solvent type adhesive which will weld the parts back together, such as PVC pipe glue.

 

[Trash80toHP_Mini]

8-o Don't EVER screw up a clean plastic crack with ANYTHING like epoxy or "crazy Glue" or WHATEVER!

What you need to repair almost any solvent weldable plastic is called MEK (Methy Ethyl Keytone) and it gives off one of the nastiest vapors you'll NEVER want to breathe! Full strength MEK is incredible, the stuff they sell in craft stores as Plastic Welding Solvent is straight MEK at approx. 50/50 with clear plexi dissolved in it!

Clean the plexi/polycarbonate/whatever as best you can. If it's a straight line, clamp it together in a jig and saw through it with a thin blade Japanese Pull Saw, either a RYOBA or a DOZUKI, whichever will fit well. Lowes carries a handy one for a beginner called a "Bear Saw" and they also carry straight MEK in cans.

Clamp the clean plastic together tightly and carry it OUTDOORS! Use an artist's water color brush with natural fiber bristles, dip it in the MEK can and touch it to the crack. Capillary action will flow the MEK throughout the crack and it'll be just as strong as the rest of the base. BUT LEAVE IT CLAMPED FOR A MINIMUM OF 24 HOURS! 48 would be better.

I use the same monitor and I'm sure it'll work, but test it by welding a tiny scrap of clear plexi somewhere unnoticeable befor taking my advise!

[] ]'>

 

[Bunsen]

Hey thanks for the tip jt. I'll have to give that a go on my Cube shell when I get around to dismantling it for the big upgrade.

 

[Trash80toHP_Mini]

Hey thanks for the tip jt. I'll have to give that a go on my Cube shell when I get around to dismantling it for the big upgrade.

De nada, compadre! [] ]'>

We're all here to help each other out! [] ]'>

Any non-solvent-weldable plastics, like the Polyetheline Cutting Board on my vacuum table must have mechanical connections or be joined by using an actual "Plastic Welder." Think thin stream of very hot compressed air, kind of like a teensy weensy supercharged hair dryer/heat gun that's supplied by a compressor instead of a fan and uses plastic welding rod, similar to stick welding metal.

Solvent weldable case plastics (all Macs I've ever heard tell of) can be MEK welded to tack weld/hold them in place and if the joint is rough (as it almost always is when done by hand) then you can use a plastic welder and a welding stick, that's rip cut from a junk case of the same color, to fill the gaps and then file/sand away the "slag."

I got a cheapo plastic welder from Harbor Freight Tools and it worked fine under testing conditions, but I haven't had the urge to weld up the crack infested tuschie of my Q700/4SlotPPC as yet, the MEK is holding it just fine for now . . .

. . . I'll pretty it up whenever . . . :

 

[Bunsen]

tom7447: Just a thought - is the crack at the rear of the base and out of sight? I'm wondering if it might be worth solvent welding a small patch plate (or two, top and bottom) of matching polycarbonate across the crack for added tensile strength.

 

[tom7447]

Bunsen, no its not it's right at the front all the way through to the back thus severing the entire support so that right now it's not being used, just lying screen down (so the weight is off the stand)

Sounds like a good idea, I was thinking along those lines myself, wouldn't know where to start with a repair like that though

Thanks for the reply

 

[Bunsen]

all the way through to the back thus severing the entire support

Wow that's major. I had a mental image of just the rear arc having split. Is it split all the way up through the inverted dome shaped section that attaches to the base of the monitor too, or does the split route around that?

Sounds like even more of a case for reinforcement than I thought. My thought would be to keep an eye out for some flexible thin plexi (if such a thing exists) or vacuum form a thicker reinforcing strip to match the existing curve.

Course, you couldn't vacuum form directly to the existing base, because you'd melt and deform that too. So you'd have to take a mould (plaster cast) and vac form to that.

My first thoughts involved a strip of steel and some pop rivets, but I'm brutal like that :rambo:

 

[Trash80toHP_Mini]

Take piccies from several angles,post them thumbnailed w'links to high res pics, so all interested parties can have a look-see and we'll come up with a fix.

If worse comes to worse, I'll take a look at how mine's made and come up with a hackjob to get it back online for you. }

 

[Paralel]

The expanded name for MEK is Methylethyl ketone, no 'Y'. Although, according to IUPAC nomenclature, that's not correct either. It should be called Butan-2-one or 2-Butanone is also usually acceptable.

Despite its somewhat overpowering smell it's fairly safe, no worse than turpentine or acetone, although I wouldn't work in an area where the vapors could concentrate, more for the fact that it has a greater flammability than gasoline if nothing else.

 

[Trash80toHP_Mini]

My bad, I know how to spell it, just flubbed it! :I

BTW, whatever became of the borked base?

 

[tom7447]

what happened to it??

I sold it and the G4 that went with it to a family friend. They were quite happy to put a tub of foot cream underneath it to support it

lol

 

[Trash80toHP_Mini]

. . . put a tub of foot cream underneath it to support it

:lol: Nice hack!