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setting up a G4 Tower Quicksilver 933 MHz

bigmessowires

Well-known member
After grousing about the high prices of old Macs recently, I was reminded that G4 systems are often still pretty cheap, and now I'm the new owner of a G4 tower Quicksilver 933 MHz system. I'm basically a 68K Mac guy and I've never used any of the G3, G4, or G5 tower systems from this era, so I'm fairly clueless about how they work and what to expect. First some photos, then a bunch of silly noob questions:

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The keyboard is Spanish language with an "Ayuda" key and a slightly different layout than I'm used to. Is it not possible to turn on the G4 from the keyboard, like you could with ADB-based Macs? There's no power key on the keyboard, so I pressed the physical power switch on the computer tower. I warned you these would be noob questions.

OSX popped up the keyboard setup assistant, and asked me to press the key to the right of the left shift key. On this keyboard that's the greater-than less-than key. When I pressed it, the assistant complained that I'd pressed a key on my built-in keyboard and that I should use my external keyboard instead... hmm? Pressing further keys did nothing. Eventually I just closed the assistant and the keyboard worked anyway.

I don't really understand these pop-up slots for removable media drives. There's apparently no way to open these manually - only by pressing the eject key on your keyboard? What if your keyboard doesn't have an eject key? What if you have two optical drives - how do you open the correct one? What if you have a Zip or an MO drive? What if you want to boot from a CD or DVD and need to insert a disc before the computer has booted?

Holy slow boot times: it takes 2 minutes and 3 seconds from power button to the OSX desktop, with a fairly vanilla install of 10.4.11. Is that typical? I'd thought a 933 MHz G4 would be faster. I don't have many other PowerPC systems to compare with, but I think my iBook G3 boots faster than that. My IIci boots System 6 in like 5-10 seconds. ;)

I'm guessing that the hard disk may be failing, and contributing to the slow boot times. I see a parade of various icons during booting - which of these are normal? First it shows a blinking icon of the globe Earth for perhaps 10-15 seconds, then it shows a folder with a question mark alternating with a folder with a MacOS icon on it, toggling back and forth between those two for a while. Eventually it switches to a gray screen with a progress spinner. I can hear the disk drive making the same pattern of noises repeatedly, like it's failing and retrying the same operation. It takes over a minute until I see the "booting OS X" dialog box with the blue progress bar. That part only takes a few seconds, then finally it reaches the desktop.

This computer doesn't have OS9 installed, so I'll have to find a way to install it and see how the boot time compares to OSX.

This is the 933 MHz model with 768 MB RAM, 60 GB HD, DVD-RW drive (is this a Superdrive?), and GeForce4 MX 64MB video card.

Some of the body plastic is cloudy and yellowed. Can this type of plastic be restored using the same process as for old car headlights? I've had success in the past restoring headlights by scrubbing with a toothbrush and toothpaste. You can also find headlight restoration kits that might work better for restoring old plastic.

The monitor is a 17 inch Apple Studio Display LCD, 1280x1024. It's a nice monitor and the everything-in-one cable is convenient, but I already have plenty of LCDs. There's also a faint smudge or backlight problem in the bottom-right quadright which you can see in the photo. I don't think I'll be keeping this Apple Studio Display, so if you're in the San Francisco area and you want it, it's yours for the price of a 6-pack of beer.

What are some fun things to do with this system? I was thinking about picking up a SCSI card to go with it, for starters.
 

Phipli

Well-known member
The keyboard is Spanish language with an "Ayuda" key and a slightly different layout than I'm used to. Is it not possible to turn on the G4 from the keyboard, like you could with ADB-based Macs? There's no power key on the keyboard, so I pressed the physical power switch on the computer tower. I warned you these would be noob questions.
Yeah, no power button on most USB keyboards. Some of the earliest did. No idea if or when the mac side circuitry for detecting the power button (a trickle current circuit looks for a short on one of the USB data lines!) was deleted from Macs. I don't have any USB keyboards with a power button to try. Perhaps I should just wire up a button and try it on a few macs.
OSX popped up the keyboard setup assistant, and asked me to press the key to the right of the left shift key. On this keyboard that's the greater-than less-than key. When I pressed it, the assistant complained that I'd pressed a key on my built-in keyboard and that I should use my external keyboard instead... hmm? Pressing further keys did nothing. Eventually I just closed the assistant and the keyboard worked anyway.
It thinks you have a Bluetooth keyboard. Tell it to get lost.
There's apparently no way to open these manually - only by pressing the eject key on your keyboard?
You can do it from the OS too, either in the OS9 CD player, iTunes, or you can add it to the menu bar.
What if your keyboard doesn't have an eject key?
There... Is a keyboard shortcut... Like, cmd-del? Or something?? @joshc ?
What if you have two optical drives - how do you open the correct one?
From the menu bar thing that you don't have enabled / installed.
What if you have a Zip or an MO drive?
They don't have covers, so you just shove 'em in. Drag to the trash to eject.
What if you want to boot from a CD or DVD and need to insert a disc before the computer has booted?
Tests your reflexes. Or hold down the option key during power on to get a cool boot select menu.

Holy slow boot times: it takes 2 minutes and 3 seconds from power button to the OSX desktop, with a fairly vanilla install of 10.4.11. Is that typical? I'd thought a 933 MHz G4 would be faster. I don't have many other PowerPC systems to compare with, but I think my iBook G3 boots faster than that. My IIci boots System 6 in like 5-10 seconds. ;)
Yeah, probably normal. I'd say put a data card and an SSD in it, but the QuickSilver specifically can have issues with common SATA cards. Fast IDE might be smarter.
First it shows a blinking icon of the globe Earth for perhaps 10-15 seconds,
Never seen this before? I believe it is trying to Net boot, then because it doesn't have a disk selected, it scans the busses. The folder thing replaced the question mark floppy.

Go to Control Panels and set the startup disk to your disk and it should sort this issue.

It takes over a minute until I see the "booting OS X" dialog box with the blue progress bar.
This is normal. Apple pretending their computers start fast by spending no time on the progress bar, but lots on nothing.
This computer doesn't have OS9 installed, so I'll have to find a way to install it and see how the boot time compares to OSX.
Yeah, just burn a Mac OS 9.2.2 disk and boot from it.
This is the 933 MHz model with 768 MB RAM, 60 GB HD, DVD-RW drive (is this a Superdrive?), and GeForce4 MX 64MB video card.
Nice :)
Some of the body plastic is cloudy and yellowed. Can this type of plastic be restored using the same process as for old car headlights? I've had success in the past restoring headlights by scrubbing with a toothbrush and toothpaste. You can also find headlight restoration kits that might work better for restoring old plastic.
No idea sorry. My QS and MDD are both in spectacular, almost new, condition :) other than the dead PSUs. :(
What are some fun things to do with this system?
Quake III Arena, music software, video software, art software. Suggest you start a new thread for that. There is a lot to say. Best computer for software range Apple made. Consider for example, Unreal Tournament 2004, and Maxis SimEarth will both run on this machine!

Tried Tetris Max on it yet? No OS9 I guess you said.
I was thinking about picking up a SCSI card to go with it, for starters.
Go IDE or SATA.

That was a long post!
 
Did you set the operating system in the startup disk control panel. If you don't do that or if the pram battery is dead it won't remember where the operating system is and will spend a while on the question mark folder until it finds the OS and boots.
 

Plasticoat

Well-known member
I have a quicksilver, and I hold it in high esteem,
Games mostly on mine, all the warcrafts, and Diablo, StarCraft . treasure it.

I’m working on mapping my PSU, I intend this machine to live a long life
IMG_8895.jpeg
 

JustG

Well-known member
Don't forget with the Studio Display you can power the computer on by touching the power button on the display. Puts it to sleep too. Bonus with ADC is you get USB through it so you've got extra USB ports to play with on the back.
 

bigmessowires

Well-known member
Don't forget with the Studio Display you can power the computer on by touching the power button on the display.
Nice! I had no idea that was possible.

It thinks you have a Bluetooth keyboard. Tell it to get lost.
Strange. I don't think this computer even has Bluetooth.

You can do it from the OS too, either in the OS9 CD player, iTunes, or you can add it to the menu bar.
There... Is a keyboard shortcut... Like, cmd-del? Or something?? @joshc ?
Command-Del unfortunately does not work. I Googled for an answer and found suggestions for Command-E, this also did not work. Another suggestion was F12 - this did not work on the original Apple keyboard but did work on a generic Windows USB keyboard. I found this "secret" method to add an eject menu, is there an easier way? https://www.lifewire.com/add-menu-bar-item-to-eject-cd-2260345

They (Zip or MO) don't have covers, so you just shove 'em in. Drag to the trash to eject.
But how do you insert the disks if you can't manually open the spring-loaded slot cover? Do you have to permanently remove the cover? I monkeyed around with it briefly, but it doesn't seem like it's designed to be detached.

Never seen this before? I believe it is trying to Net boot, then because it doesn't have a disk selected, it scans the busses. The folder thing replaced the question mark floppy.

Go to Control Panels and set the startup disk to your disk and it should sort this issue.
Setting the startup disk eliminated the globe icon and the question mark icon at startup, and improved the boot time to about 1:32. I'm still very suspicious that the hard drive is failing, based on the sounds it makes. For comparison my iBook G3 (which is all-around slower than this G4 Quicksilver) takes 55 seconds to boot 9.2.2 and 49 seconds to boot 10.4.11.

Tests your reflexes. Or hold down the option key during power on to get a cool boot select menu.
Holding the option key shows the boot menu, but the only option displayed is the HD. I don't see a way to open the optical drive from there, so I'm not sure how you'd use it to boot from CD or DVD if the disc isn't already in the drive.

I read elsewhere that holding the C key during booting might work, but that didn't help when the optical drive is empty. After more Googling, apparently the answer is to hold Command-Option-O-F while booting to get the Open Firmware menu and then type "eject cd". This does work, but... wow that is super unfriendly. So far this inability to open the optical drive without software help is my least-favorite feature of this computer: Apple has managed to take something as simple as a CD eject button and replace it with Command-Option-O-F and a firmware command? I know this isn't the most common scenario, but any time you have a fubared HD with no OS and you want to install from CD/DVD, you'll have to do this? If there's a simpler solution that I've missed, please tell me. Update: holding the mouse button while booting also works, if you're smart enough to remember this. But I still want a manual eject CD button.

Go IDE or SATA.
I was thinking a SCSI card would make it convenient to use one of my existing SCSI emulators for CD installer images or to get software onto the HD, not as a primary hard disk.

I have a quicksilver, and I hold it in high esteem,
Indeed! Except for the missing CD eject button, I'm liking it a lot!
 

volvo242gt

Well-known member
The original USB keyboards with the power button will power up any desktop Mac through at least the A1186 Mac Pros. So, there is that option. Also, with the Griffin iMate, the power key on a M0115, etc, will power up most of the PowerMac G4 systems. Worked fine on my previous Digital Audio, but didn't seem to work with my original MDD. I never tried it with my QS that I owned for a while, but, by then, I didn't have the iMate anymore.

I would go ahead and pop an Adaptec SCSI card in there, then snake both a ribbon cable and a power cable out the back, so you can transfer files to your older Macs' hard drives, even if they aren't in an external case. I seem to have better luck with the 29160N card than the 2940 series cards, which made the 10.4.11 install on my old B&W rather unstable.
 

Phipli

Well-known member
Command-Del unfortunately does not work. I Googled for an answer and found suggestions for Command-E, this also did not work. Another suggestion was F12 - this did not work on the original Apple keyboard but did work on a generic Windows USB keyboard. I found this "secret" method to add an eject menu, is there an easier way? https://www.lifewire.com/add-menu-bar-item-to-eject-cd-2260345
It was F12 I was thinking of. I haven't used OSX on one of these sort of machines in years sorry. I think there is an easier way... I think it might just appear if you have two drives. It's an extension in OS9.
This does work, but... wow that is super unfriendly. So far this inability to open the optical drive without software help is my least-favorite feature of this computer: Apple has managed to take something as simple as a CD eject button and replace it with Command-Option-O-F and a firmware command?
That's a little unfair, these machines did ship with keyboards with an eject button.
Update: holding the mouse button while booting also works, if you're smart enough to remember this. But I still want a manual eject CD button.
Ah, on older macs that only worked if there was something in the drive, good to know.
I was thinking a SCSI card would make it convenient to use one of my existing SCSI emulators for CD installer images or to get software onto the HD, not as a primary hard disk.
Good idea, I've been considering getting a SCSI card for my main Linux machine so I can back up / restore images easily.
 

Phipli

Well-known member
But how do you insert the disks if you can't manually open the spring-loaded slot cover? Do you have to permanently remove the cover? I monkeyed around with it briefly, but it doesn't seem like it's designed to be detached.
The drives came with a replacement cover with a slot for disks. There isn't a flap on the zip drives or MO drives.

Edit - here is mine :

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Forrest

Well-known member
OSX 10.4.x will bootup quicker after a couple of restarts.

For some perspective on OS sizes, OSX 10.4.x takes up about a GB of hard drive space, while System 6.0.5 shipped on four 800K floppies.
 

joshc

Well-known member
Slow booting is 'normal', could be a few reasons for it. G4s can be slow to actually find their drives - at least my Sawtooth is slow at that. Maybe QS are better at it, not sure. The original drive is probably on its last legs anyway, and they were slow.

OS 9 will be the quickest on that vs any version of OS X - try OS 9 and see how fast it feels.

Holding the option key shows the boot menu, but the only option displayed is the HD. I don't see a way to open the optical drive from there, so I'm not sure how you'd use it to boot from CD or DVD if the disc isn't already in the drive.
I think you can hold Option, and then insert the CD, and then wait for it to appear. I think there might be a refresh button on that boot selector as well? Or maybe that came later...

Yeah just ignore the keyboard setup assistant, you don't need it.
Some of the body plastic is cloudy and yellowed. Can this type of plastic be restored using the same process as for old car headlights? I've had success in the past restoring headlights by scrubbing with a toothbrush and toothpaste. You can also find headlight restoration kits that might work better for restoring old plastic.
Yup, worth a go. I think @LaPorta restored the plastic panels of his G4(s) using a similar method.
 

LaPorta

Well-known member
A few suggestions:

- Re: Eject key. Every Apple keyboard sold for years throughout that era had an eject key, so Apple didn't consider it an issue. If you really needed to, iIn /System/Library/Core Services/Menu Extras/, "Eject.menu" exists. Double-click it to put the Eject menu in your Menu bar. I wish I could tell you how to enable it otherwise, but I am not sure. Rusty memory serves that if a non-Apple keyboard, or any without eject key was present, then the menu would automatically show up. This forces it to show no matter what. Otherwise, I'd suggest one of those Apple Pro Keyboards that you mentioned in another thread - that's a great companion to these machines. As for startup, the usual hold-down-the-mouse will work to eject the drive, but it won't stop the machine from starting up.

-Re: OS 9 - Any 9.2.2 installation should work just fine. If any are suspect, I have the original OS 9 media that came with 10.4 and can make an image of that for you to allow for installation on a G4. It absolutely flies. My Quicksilver is a DP 1.0 GHz, yours should be just as fast with OS 9.

-Re: Plastics - that sort of thing could work for yellowing. If you really want to get rid of scratches (I wanted mine to look brand new), I have a video tutorial for it here:


Re: Software - as @Phipli said, it is a huge range. I play Quake 3 on there, Return to Castle Wolfenstein, all three Marathons, F/A-18 Hornet, any SimCity should work....the list goes on. Most System 7-OS 9 Stuff I do on my PT Pro, though.

Re: The HD. OWC sells OEM Apple drives for a pittance if you want to make this easy. I have gotten OEM 1 TB drives from them for around $22. Alternatively, their SSDs are also very reasonable as well.
 
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cobalt60

Well-known member
If you're into overclocking, it's somewhat easy on these machine. It involves removing and/or adding resistors on the CPU module. In lieu of resistors, I have used solder bridges as well as conductive paint pens. I would bet your 933MHz would run at 1GHz no problem.

If you're looking for CPU upgrades, you could get aftermarket, and you could also used stock Apple modules. Just be sure if using a stock Apple module it is not one from a MDD. The fastest stock Apple module that would work in your machine is a dual 1GHz, you might also consider a dual 800MHz as an upgrade. I just checked eBay and all the dual 1GHz appear to be MDD unfortunately, but a QS one could pop up very cheaply some time.

I personally am a huge fan of the Rabbit Hole Computing SATA Hard Card. It is a PCI card with both an M.2 SATA slot, as well as a place to mount a 2.5" SATA SSD. It's really cool because it allows you to have 2 drives and takes up zero drive bays. It's $90 and even comes with an M.2 drive.

I think some versions of OS X came with GarageBand, which is a great music making program. I bet OS X came with other software that could still be useful today. For example iTunes, CD burning software, etc.

If you want to play with Linux, these are fun machines to install it to. I have always used Debian, but I think recent versions of Debian dropped support for PPC 32-bit, so might have to try a different distro or an older one. NetBSD should install to these too, but no idea how functionally complete it is.
 

cobalt60

Well-known member
Oh while on the subject of games, I used to play Halo, Halo CE, StarCraft, A-10 Cuba, and Escape Velocity, just to name a few. One I wanted to play but never did was Falcon 4.0. I tried playing on a PowerMac 7300 and it just didn't work, and never got to trying it once I got newer Macs (it used Glide so not sure how well it would do even on a G4 unless maybe some newer GPUs emulated Glide or something). Oh, and X-Plane! X-Plane has a demo that lets you fly for like 5 minutes or something. It also has an aircraft modeler, where you can design your own aircraft, and there's no limit here when you only have the demo.
 

bigmessowires

Well-known member
That's a little unfair, these machines did ship with keyboards with an eject button.
I think you can hold Option, and then insert the CD, and then wait for it to appear.
For normal daily use I agree it's not so bad to use a keyboard eject key (though I'd still prefer an eject button on the drive). I'm thinking about the case where you need to boot from a recovery CD or install CD that's not already inserted in the drive - where you maybe don't have a working OS on the HD. Having an eject key on the keyboard doesn't help if there's no OS to read the key. And you can't hold Option and then insert the CD because there's no way to get the $*#^@#% drive door opened so you can insert the disc.

The drives came with a replacement cover with a slot for disks. There isn't a flap on the zip drives or MO drives.
Ahh OK. So if you bought a Quicksilver preconfigured with a Zip drive then it had one of those covers. What about somebody who added a Zip or MO later, purchased elsewhere? Maybe Apple sold replacement covers? I wonder where you could find one of those today. I didn't see any on eBay. If the existing cover can be removed without breaking it, that's probably the easiest option but it wouldn't look as nice.

Re: Plastics - that sort of thing could work for yellowing. If you really want to get rid of scratches (I wanted mine to look brand new), I have a video tutorial for it here:
Great video, thanks! You look nothing at all how I imagined you. I may try that method. Fortunately after a closer look, the plastic is more dirty than it is yellowed. There's a lot of dirt inside the clear plastic handles somehow, but I was able to detach them and clean them out.

Re: The HD. OWC sells OEM Apple drives for a pittance if you want to make this easy. I have gotten OEM 1 TB drives from them for around $22. Alternatively, their SSDs are also very reasonable as well.
I see their SSD options for the Quicksilver but not any traditional hard disks, so maybe they phased those out. Can I use basically any IDE hard disk in this computer? Is there a particular ATA version number that I should search for to ensure it's compatible?

I would bet your 933MHz would run at 1GHz no problem.
I admit there's something strangely appealing about the idea of the classic MacOS running at 1 GHz. I mean 933 MHz was so close, they couldn't stretch it 7 percent more?? ;)
I personally am a huge fan of the Rabbit Hole Computing SATA Hard Card. It is a PCI card with both an M.2 SATA slot, as well as a place to mount a 2.5" SATA SSD. It's really cool because it allows you to have 2 drives and takes up zero drive bays. It's $90 and even comes with an M.2 drive.
That works on a G4 Mac running 9.2.2 or OSX? Their product description doesn't mention anything about Macintosh (or vintage Macintosh). It looks pretty cool, but I'd probably just opt for a simpler replacement for the existing HDD that doesn't make suspicious repetitive clicking sounds. Am I correct I can use any standard IDE PATA hard disk?
 

cobalt60

Well-known member
That works on a G4 Mac running 9.2.2 or OSX? Their product description doesn't mention anything about Macintosh (or vintage Macintosh).
Yes, but I think it needs flashing for both. The reason they don't advertise compatibility I think is because the required firmware is not freely licensed.

And yes you can use any standard PATA drive with the G4s onboard IDE.
 

cobalt60

Well-known member
classic MacOS running at 1 GHz

In your case, you'd need to remove the resistor on R7, and install one on R5. Again, I've used conductive paint pens when I was younger and it always worked flawlessly. I've overclocked probably 20 or 30 G4 modules this way.
 

bigmessowires

Well-known member
Hmm, I forgot that nobody makes PATA hard drives anymore. I'm not sure it makes sense to pay good money to replace a 21 year old HDD with a 10 or 15 year old HDD even if it's new old stock. So it's probably a choice between a PATA SSD like the one OWC offers, or else the SATA PCI Hard Card.
 

cobalt60

Well-known member
So it's probably a choice between a PATA SSD like the one OWC offers, or else the SATA PCI Hard Card.
You can also get a normal SATA PCI card, and then flash it, so you can use SATA hard drives. These SATA PCI cards are extremely cheap, like $15 on eBay, but, you have to flash them, and you have to make sure you get the right chipset. The RHC SATA Hard Card is, from my understanding, basically one of those, reverse engineered, and modified to remove the normal SATA ports and add M.2 and one to direct mount a 2.5" drive.
 
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