They're 2mm jumpers. I might have some around if I have a rummage. I know I bought a bag of them at one point.
My Mad B&W G3 Setup!
- Thread starter Snial
- Start date
Interesting, I also might have some on some junk electronics (likely some bust 3.5" HDs).
Hi @Phipli ! I found a 4GB Seagate SCSI HD with quite a few 2mm jumpers and an ST M28F101 -150 which is a 12V Flash with the same pinout and speed!
I think it might be OK to cannibalise it as there's a distinct rattle when I twist it back and forth. It's probably dead.
-cheers from Julz
There are more jumpers here by the look of it :
I recommend using a 512k ROM as I've never had much luck with the modified ROM. If you want it to work first time.
I think you're right! I saw they might be when I posted the photo.
Oh, OK. But how would a 512kB ROM work? This is the ST MF101.
I can see a spare pin (pin 30) for A17, but not one for A18, unless VPP is reappropriated and it's 5V only. Hmmm, close guess by me. This is the AMD 29F040:
It's the same except Pin 1 is A18 and Pin 30 is A17 and it's 5V only. Does the PCI board try to use Pin 1 as an address pin then?
Amazing levels of ignorance on my part, despite having programmed these things (I have a few SST 256kB Flash chips, but they're DIPs).
-cheers from Julz
They're designed to work with both. The pinouts are compatible - you never actually use the programming voltage in circuit so it is just wired for A18 in case you fit a 4Mbit chip.
I needed them! Upgrading from 350MHz to 400MHz needs 6 jumpers. The HD only provided 5, but I could use the end one from the original jumper block (which now pokes out beyond the jumper pins). Now my B&W G3 appears to run at 400MHz!
Apple System Profiler now says:
Sensibly I have VM turned on to slow it down again ;-) !
But it worked!!! I haven't done much of a test, I just wanted to see if it would boot. I'll continue to use it in this mode, but if it fails I can always remove the existing jumpers and re-attach the original jumper block!
I've voided my warranty :-( !
Nice work
Oooh, fancy, you have the DVD decoder daughter card on your Rage 128. They're usually missing for some reason. Not sure if they were optional, or just people remove them to use somewhere else.
What size memory sticks do you have installed? It says if you click the expand thing next to "Built-in memory" in System Profiler.
64+64+32, or 128+32?
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Hi @Phipli , while I wait for the downstairs living room to be cool enough to sleep in (upstairs is 2.5°C warmer), I can already answer the ram question. It has 3 DIMMs, so it will be 64MB*2+32MB.
Cheers julz
Care package on its way.
Couple of 2mm jumpers so you can tidy that up, 5v pre-flashed ROM and a couple of RAM sticks so you can run Mac OS X properly if you want to. 160MB is a bit low for 10.3 or 10.4. (I'd go with 10.3 on that if I was going to put an OS X install on it).
I think only the high end models came with DVD-ROM drives.Nice work
Oooh, fancy, you have the DVD decoder daughter card on your Rage 128. They're usually missing for some reason. Not sure if they were optional, or just people remove them to use somewhere else.
Incredibly generous, very thankful! I do have an install of Mac OS X 10.3 on it too even though I'm aware it's just above the minimum.
Latest update: @Phipli very kindly provided me with another 192MB of RAM on a 128MB and 64MB pair of sticks. I already had 3 DIMMs used (64MB*2+32MB), so I removed the 32MB and added the other 2. I also used one of his 2mm jumpers to replace my hacky use of the original jumper block.
However when I rebooted, it wouldn't complete the boot - it got stuck on Mac OS 9.1 loading up extensions. Then it wouldn't even get that far on a restart. So, that was either the RAM or jumper settings at 400MHz. I switched it back down to 350MHz and it fully booted to Mac OS 9.1 with 320MB of RAM
Gosh, that's serious dude stuff for 1999!Then I rebooted into Mac OS X 10.3.9. There's now plenty of RAM free, even when I run iMovie 3.0.3 (which seems to be taking up 34MB). However, iMovie 3.03 supposedly needs a 700MHz G3 - anyway, my HD bus is too slow to use it until I get SATA sorted.
I say 320MB was serious dude stuff for then, but it was true. Most Macs were shipped with 32MB at the low end (iBook/300, iMac/266) or 64MB at the professional end (PowerMac G3 and even the low-end PowerMac G4s). Only a couple of Macs were shipped with 128MB. In 1999 I had a PB5300 (which I keep going on about in an attempt to deal with the trauma) but that had 40MB. When I bought my Tangerine iBook/300 in spring 2000 as they were going cheap before an imminent update, it came with 32MB of RAM so I immediately added another 64MB.
One of my goals with my B&W G3 is to do some video editing using my Canon MV550 (which still works and I have tapes!). I plan to install EditDV 2.0 (or 1.6), which I figure can't be too different to FCE 2 and the system requirements are much lower (I think, though I can't find a reference for that).
Though having said that, EditDV runs on Mac OS 9 and I'm pretty sure my sister used iMovie 3.0.3 under Mac OS X on her iMac 400DV and I used it on my iBook/600. Theoretically they're not too different in performance:
| Model | RAM/MB | MHz/L2 Cache | Geekbench2 | Ratio |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| B&W G3 | 320 | 350/1MB | 210 | 100% |
| iMac 400DV | 320? | 400/512kB | 211 | 100% |
| iBook Clam (FW) | 366/256kB | 178 | 85% | |
| iBook Clam SE (FW) | 466/256kB | 216 | 103% | |
| iceBook dual USB (FW) | 500/256kB | 214 | 102% | |
| iceBook dual USB (FW) | 384 | 600/256kB | 290 | 138% |
None of them are hugely superior (I threw in the Clamshell FW iBooks as they were the slowest FW iBooks). My iBook started with 128MB+256MB, so again, similar to the B&W. So, yeah I think the system requirements for iMovie 3.0.3 can't be right.
Hi @Phipli ! My next mini-project is to remove the existing Flash PLCC using the SMD Rework Station/Hot air thing (when confident enough). I will dump the flash contents (@joevt ). What's the literal sequence of steps to solder your replacement? e.g. at the level of:
If OK, test SATA card with a SATA drive.
- Clean all the pads using.. braid?/flux?/isopropanol?
- Put a small amount of solder on two opposite corners of the PLCC?/pads?. Do I add flux before/after?
- Solder the pins on the unsoldered edges first... solder first? flux first (&how much)? That way when I go back to soldering the edges for the corners I'd soldered in (2), they won't melt and make it go askew.
- Solder the pins on the remaining two edges.
- Clean splashes..
- Check adjacent pins aren't connected.
If OK, test SATA card with a SATA drive.
Work somewhere with ventilation and extraction, filtration or at least a fan. Flux fumes aren't good for you (nor are lead fumes from lead solder).
Removal
1. Put heatproof barriers in place to protect heat sensitive components (capacitors, plastic parts) close to what you're working on. Remember you're blowing things, so make sure they're secure (kapton tape ideally). I usually use spare bits of PCB (unpopulated 30pin RAM boards or SOIC DIP adapter PCBs are great).
2. Preheat the board a bit to get some heat into it. (Set the hot air to about 150°C?)
3. Put flux on the pins you're desoldering - the solder melts much easier if you do.
4. Get a pair of tweezers, if possible that you can pick the chip up with. Set the hot air gun to something like 350°C and run it in a continuous circular motion to heat each side of the chip. Poke at the chip gently too see when it comes free.
5. If you can, lift the chip off, taking care not to knock any other components. If there is enough room to one side of the chip, just push it off.
6. Let it cool a little, then apply new flux and use an iron and solder braid to wick up the remaining solder.
_____________
Fitment
7. Apply a little flux to the pads.
8. Using the iron (about 340°C for Lead Free), apply some solder to the pads. You'll find with flux it magically sort of settles to a certain about with surface tension. Get them approximately uniform. If they look scruffy, reapply flux.
9. Apply a little flux to the pads and to the pins on the new chip.
10. Spend 15 minutes trying to get the chip to sit so that it is on top of the domed solder on the pads. Swear a bit in your language of choice.
11. Use the hot air to melt the solder, tap the top of the chip to encourage it to settle. If you use lead free, it will likely take more time to melt than it took to remove the chip. You should be able to see the solder flow a little and change appearance when it melts, sometimes the chip also pulls itself into place when the solder melts, but this is the bit that needs the most practice from the process. You'll get a feel for it.
12. Let it cool, use a phone camera and good light (not the flash) to inspect the solder, you should see a nice little bevel where the solder goes from the pad to the pin. If a single pin or two looks like it didn't connect, apply a little flux and poke it with the tip of a soldering iron. If loads didn't attach, remove the chip and try again.
13. Let it cool, some, but not completely, and then clean with IPA, cotton buds and paper towel.
Practice on something that doesn't matter first. Try removing and attaching a chip a few times. Never pull on a chip hard. Once it's free it will come off easily. Applying force (or too much heat) is how pads get broken.
Removal
1. Put heatproof barriers in place to protect heat sensitive components (capacitors, plastic parts) close to what you're working on. Remember you're blowing things, so make sure they're secure (kapton tape ideally). I usually use spare bits of PCB (unpopulated 30pin RAM boards or SOIC DIP adapter PCBs are great).
2. Preheat the board a bit to get some heat into it. (Set the hot air to about 150°C?)
3. Put flux on the pins you're desoldering - the solder melts much easier if you do.
4. Get a pair of tweezers, if possible that you can pick the chip up with. Set the hot air gun to something like 350°C and run it in a continuous circular motion to heat each side of the chip. Poke at the chip gently too see when it comes free.
5. If you can, lift the chip off, taking care not to knock any other components. If there is enough room to one side of the chip, just push it off.
6. Let it cool a little, then apply new flux and use an iron and solder braid to wick up the remaining solder.
_____________
Fitment
7. Apply a little flux to the pads.
8. Using the iron (about 340°C for Lead Free), apply some solder to the pads. You'll find with flux it magically sort of settles to a certain about with surface tension. Get them approximately uniform. If they look scruffy, reapply flux.
9. Apply a little flux to the pads and to the pins on the new chip.
10. Spend 15 minutes trying to get the chip to sit so that it is on top of the domed solder on the pads. Swear a bit in your language of choice.
11. Use the hot air to melt the solder, tap the top of the chip to encourage it to settle. If you use lead free, it will likely take more time to melt than it took to remove the chip. You should be able to see the solder flow a little and change appearance when it melts, sometimes the chip also pulls itself into place when the solder melts, but this is the bit that needs the most practice from the process. You'll get a feel for it.
12. Let it cool, use a phone camera and good light (not the flash) to inspect the solder, you should see a nice little bevel where the solder goes from the pad to the pin. If a single pin or two looks like it didn't connect, apply a little flux and poke it with the tip of a soldering iron. If loads didn't attach, remove the chip and try again.
13. Let it cool, some, but not completely, and then clean with IPA, cotton buds and paper towel.
Practice on something that doesn't matter first. Try removing and attaching a chip a few times. Never pull on a chip hard. Once it's free it will come off easily. Applying force (or too much heat) is how pads get broken.
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