Got confused by the pin count, all the UE10 pins are now connected correctly and not missing anywhere.
Still Simasima and no sound. Will keep going tomorrow.
Still Simasima and no sound. Will keep going tomorrow.
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Macintosh SE/30 M5119 - Restoration
- Thread starter GreenBar0n
- Start date
UE10 was confirmed to have 5V at pin 35 and the Reset is working also, UE10 appears to be in good order.
Will check the clocks tomorrow.
Will check the clocks tomorrow.
Went through the clock signals and not sure what to make of this.
The C16G clock running the same speeds as C16M seems odd since all of the C16M clocks were exact. The E clock is off too.
But the strangest is the C3M clock wave form, when compared to the others, this is C3M running slightly slower than the expected 3.9MHz:
C3M looks like a stutter, or overlapping signal, is there something off here?
The C16G clock running the same speeds as C16M seems odd since all of the C16M clocks were exact. The E clock is off too.
But the strangest is the C3M clock wave form, when compared to the others, this is C3M running slightly slower than the expected 3.9MHz:
C3M looks like a stutter, or overlapping signal, is there something off here?
Not really. Set a trigger and zoom out.
I did setup my scope better, I guess I won't worry about the slightly slower speeds 3.67MHz vs. 3.9 Mhz, all the clocks are where they're supposed to be.
I moved on to the Reset portion of the guide and I definitely have a problem here:
UB11 pin6 only drops to about 4V with the Reset.
RP7 pin2 stays at 5V with the Reset.
Would that mean RP7 has gone bad and that may be why UB11 stays partially high?
Thanks!
I moved on to the Reset portion of the guide and I definitely have a problem here:
UB11 pin6 only drops to about 4V with the Reset.
RP7 pin2 stays at 5V with the Reset.
Would that mean RP7 has gone bad and that may be why UB11 stays partially high?
Thanks!
I was measuring RP7 pin7, not Pin2, Pin2 goes to 0V with Reset, RP7 is working correctly, my mistake.
Added sockets for UB10 and 11, the Sony Sound chips, cleaned the board underneath thoroughly.
I can get Pin5 on both UB10 and 11 to go to 0V with the Reset button, but Pin6 only drops to about 3.9V.
Anyone know what VSNS on Pin6, means or does?
Added sockets for UB10 and 11, the Sony Sound chips, cleaned the board underneath thoroughly.
I can get Pin5 on both UB10 and 11 to go to 0V with the Reset button, but Pin6 only drops to about 3.9V.
Anyone know what VSNS on Pin6, means or does?
Tried the CPU walk the bus test and I can't get a square wave from any of the ROM slots, the wave form is a mess, with varying speeds, nothing is consistent.
Is there any way to tell if a CPU is bad without another one to test with?
Is there any way to tell if a CPU is bad without another one to test with?
Found an issue with my Y3 Xtal, and was wondering if this is normal.
On the Y1 Xtal I get a matching wave form on both legs with a clock of 32kHz:
But on Y3, that is close to the UE10 chip that was corroded badly from the cap leak, I get a strange looking waveform on one of the legs:
The good signal from the leg farthest away from UE10:
The other leg closest to UE10:
When I look at the schematic I see both Y3 legs are attached to UE10, Xtal In and Xtal Out. Should both Y3 wave forms be exactly the same, like Y1 is? Does Y3 go bad?
On the Y1 Xtal I get a matching wave form on both legs with a clock of 32kHz:
But on Y3, that is close to the UE10 chip that was corroded badly from the cap leak, I get a strange looking waveform on one of the legs:
The good signal from the leg farthest away from UE10:
The other leg closest to UE10:
When I look at the schematic I see both Y3 legs are attached to UE10, Xtal In and Xtal Out. Should both Y3 wave forms be exactly the same, like Y1 is? Does Y3 go bad?
To me Y3 is most likely fine.
Thanks for that! Y3 seemed good to me too, but I was having some strange clock signals and intermittency with the square waves in the ROM socket, which I'll need to identify where the problem is actually coming from.
I bought another Se/30 that works that will be here late next week, hopefully; I'll use it to compare signals with, which should speed up the troubleshooting process.
I bought another Se/30 that works that will be here late next week, hopefully; I'll use it to compare signals with, which should speed up the troubleshooting process.
I have not tried to tighten the pins, I have wiggled the ROM in the slot and never get any change.
Did you have a chime with loose pins, or ever get it to chime in that condition?
Did you have a chime with loose pins, or ever get it to chime in that condition?
