-
Updated 2023-07-12: Hello, Guest! Welcome back, and be sure to check out this follow-up post about our outage a week or so ago.
SE/30, IIfx ROM
- Thread starter synergy
- Start date
JDW
Well-known member
Yes, if you run System 7.0.1 or 7.1. That information is found here, in fact:
http://home.earthlink.net/~gamba2/os8_se30.html
http://home.earthlink.net/~gamba2/os8_se30.html
Wow, that's some major work.
So what you are saying is that you can't just swap the ROM and expect the SE/30 to boot up and run without hassle?
What if you intend to run the latest OS you could ever run on the SE/30 such as 8.1. Can you install OS8 without going through all the OS7..? What would be the easiest way to install the OS?
So what you are saying is that you can't just swap the ROM and expect the SE/30 to boot up and run without hassle?
What if you intend to run the latest OS you could ever run on the SE/30 such as 8.1. Can you install OS8 without going through all the OS7..? What would be the easiest way to install the OS?
Is it really the cap?
For some reason, the "SimasiMac" effect" does go away when I put the original ROM back in.
But only when I put in the IIfx ROM, the effect comes back for about two seconds before the smily Mac icon apprears.
I don't know if it was you but remember someone saying that it's a typical effect for the IIfx ROM but not the IIsi.
For some reason, the "SimasiMac" effect" does go away when I put the original ROM back in.
But only when I put in the IIfx ROM, the effect comes back for about two seconds before the smily Mac icon apprears.
I don't know if it was you but remember someone saying that it's a typical effect for the IIfx ROM but not the IIsi.
JDW
Well-known member
It's typical when you have the IIfx ROM but not the IIsi. I know because I have both ROMs and have tested both extensively. I have also mentioned this in the past:
viewtopic.php?p=81070#p81070
Even so, if your logic board still has the original capacitors, they really do need to be replaced. I bought two sets of replacement caps from our very own "trag" in the past, for a great price:
viewtopic.php?f=4&t=4884&hilit=trag+capacitors
viewtopic.php?p=81070#p81070
Even so, if your logic board still has the original capacitors, they really do need to be replaced. I bought two sets of replacement caps from our very own "trag" in the past, for a great price:
viewtopic.php?f=4&t=4884&hilit=trag+capacitors
Are they electrolytic surface mount capacitors?
I do have more than decades of experience in soldering but the surface mount cap is something I've never done before.
Although working Mac is preferred to a dead one, will the replacement of caps lower the value of the authenticity?
Mine is working find so far. I just brought it to life out of my closet after more than ten years of dormant state.
I do have more than decades of experience in soldering but the surface mount cap is something I've never done before.
Although working Mac is preferred to a dead one, will the replacement of caps lower the value of the authenticity?
Mine is working find so far. I just brought it to life out of my closet after more than ten years of dormant state.
JDW
Well-known member
Most of them of tantalum surface mount caps, but there are two axial electrolytics. It's actually harder to desolder the existing radial caps than it is to do the SMD caps, due to the extra heat required to desolder one of the legs from the ground plane.
Replacing the caps doesn't affect "authenticity." It's still a Mac SE/30, running on an 030 processor. Sure the caps I recommended aren't the "stock caps," but if the stock caps are dead and you cannot reliably boot, is there any merit to having the stock caps? Even a purist like me answers "no!" to that. In my vintage Mac enthusiast's mind, replacing the cheap stock caps with tantalums (which will last the life of the board, say 50 years?) will only increase the value of the machine. Why? Because the person who buys that Mac won't have to do the cap job themselves or pay anyone else to do it. It really is that simple. And so long as the machine EXTERNALLY looks stock, and so long as the motherboard is a real SE/30 edition board, it's still a "stock" machine, regardless of the caps having been replaced. Replacing the caps is as much as an improvement as when Apple removed the aluminum shield from atop the analog board of Mac 128k machines. Whether you have a Mac 128k with that piece of aluminum or not doesn't matter, nor does any EBAY auction talk about those things. Really, it's quite ridiculous to think excessively about whether replacing a capacitor is going to reduce the value of the machine. It's absurd.
But in all honesty you are thinking too much about making a buck on EBAY. Relax a bit, and enjoy the vintage Mac experience. Beside, if you don't do so, few people here will be eager to help you. Even I myself am not so enthusiastic knowing your intention is merely to sell a machine on EBAY. I'm am EBAY seller "skeptic" and "naysayer" far more than I am a "friend." But so long as you do so decently and sell for a respectable price to someone who will truly value the machine, I don't see a problem with your ultimate intention.
Anyway, if you have more questions about the $10 capacitor kit, just speak to Trag. He's very knowledgeable and can answer most any question you have about the caps.
Replacing the caps doesn't affect "authenticity." It's still a Mac SE/30, running on an 030 processor. Sure the caps I recommended aren't the "stock caps," but if the stock caps are dead and you cannot reliably boot, is there any merit to having the stock caps? Even a purist like me answers "no!" to that. In my vintage Mac enthusiast's mind, replacing the cheap stock caps with tantalums (which will last the life of the board, say 50 years?) will only increase the value of the machine. Why? Because the person who buys that Mac won't have to do the cap job themselves or pay anyone else to do it. It really is that simple. And so long as the machine EXTERNALLY looks stock, and so long as the motherboard is a real SE/30 edition board, it's still a "stock" machine, regardless of the caps having been replaced. Replacing the caps is as much as an improvement as when Apple removed the aluminum shield from atop the analog board of Mac 128k machines. Whether you have a Mac 128k with that piece of aluminum or not doesn't matter, nor does any EBAY auction talk about those things. Really, it's quite ridiculous to think excessively about whether replacing a capacitor is going to reduce the value of the machine. It's absurd.
But in all honesty you are thinking too much about making a buck on EBAY. Relax a bit, and enjoy the vintage Mac experience. Beside, if you don't do so, few people here will be eager to help you. Even I myself am not so enthusiastic knowing your intention is merely to sell a machine on EBAY. I'm am EBAY seller "skeptic" and "naysayer" far more than I am a "friend." But so long as you do so decently and sell for a respectable price to someone who will truly value the machine, I don't see a problem with your ultimate intention.
Anyway, if you have more questions about the $10 capacitor kit, just speak to Trag. He's very knowledgeable and can answer most any question you have about the caps.
Mac128
Well-known member
Well said JDW. Seriously, there are few compact Macs out there of this vintage that have never had some part replaced. And most likely they were replaced with a part which was not original to the Mac that rolled off the assembly line. Particulalry if it was repaired by a third party service center and not Apple. And Apple themselves revised the replacement parts over the life of service, in large part because they under-specced the part to begin with which is why it failed in the first place. Apple did not officially discontinue service on the first compact Macs until 1999. By that time, they were hardly providing the same componet replacement parts as originally installed in the Mac 15 years earlier.
I have a stock 128K Mac made during the 13th week of 1984. Everything about it is exactly identical to the parts which rolled off in the very first Mac (as far as I can tell). But it doesn't work and was never repaired. So what good is it? I maintain it in that condition as a museum piece, but every now and then, I pull it out and try to source the problem for repair, because if I ever sell it, nobody will care that it's 100% original if it wont turn on. However, If I ever do figure out why it doesn't work and repair it, I will photographically document it and keep the original parts for sale with it. A working Mac with full documentation of repairs made, as well as the original parts is worth far more to a collector. This allows them to use it, while being able to fully restore it to factory condition should they desire to do so. Actually, that's incorrect as it is highly unlikely using parts available today that one would ever be able to restore it to working factory condition. Even By the time the Plus rolled off the assembly line, parts Apple had used had already been discontinued and become unavailable, and many repair manuals recommended salvaging those parts wherever possible. One could certainly cannibalize another vintage Mac, but as JDW points out, those parts are in a similar state of degeneration, and will not be functional for long in their aged condition.
I have a stock 128K Mac made during the 13th week of 1984. Everything about it is exactly identical to the parts which rolled off in the very first Mac (as far as I can tell). But it doesn't work and was never repaired. So what good is it? I maintain it in that condition as a museum piece, but every now and then, I pull it out and try to source the problem for repair, because if I ever sell it, nobody will care that it's 100% original if it wont turn on. However, If I ever do figure out why it doesn't work and repair it, I will photographically document it and keep the original parts for sale with it. A working Mac with full documentation of repairs made, as well as the original parts is worth far more to a collector. This allows them to use it, while being able to fully restore it to factory condition should they desire to do so. Actually, that's incorrect as it is highly unlikely using parts available today that one would ever be able to restore it to working factory condition. Even By the time the Plus rolled off the assembly line, parts Apple had used had already been discontinued and become unavailable, and many repair manuals recommended salvaging those parts wherever possible. One could certainly cannibalize another vintage Mac, but as JDW points out, those parts are in a similar state of degeneration, and will not be functional for long in their aged condition.
