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Replacement Laserwriter Toner Drum Blades

Johnnya101

Well-known member
Only creating a separate thread for this so it is easier to find for future reference, and this applies to all old printers.

Does anyone here have a trick to replacing the wiper blades inside toner cartridges? The one for my LaserWriter II is totally shot, it cracked and is crumbling away after removing it. Has anyone tried a regular strip of rubber bolted to the metal blade frame? Or trimming a different model one to fit? Can't find any replacements for a 95A cartridge.
 

Johnnya101

Well-known member
Couldn't resist... Bought 1., a new toner to see what that blade will be like, and 2., bought a replacement blade for a different style cartridge, but the blade looks practically the same. Will provide updates.
 

Johnnya101

Well-known member
Finally arrived today. I purchased a toner drum blade for a CM3530 (whatever that is) on ebay for $15. It turns out it is about a half inch shorter than the original overall, so not plug and play like I hoped. Planning on either cutting off the 90 degree angled bit and screwing it to the old blade metal piece to hold it steady. The corona wire piece seems like it has enough of a gap to fit both blades together. Will update
 

Johnnya101

Well-known member
And I present.. the result!

Very hackish, but I do not see any other alternative.

Still some lines, but it actually prints a page now. Hoping they will go away once the blade reforms itself a bit.
 

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Johnnya101

Well-known member
A little note for future viewers:

The original cartridge I used was bad to begin with. It turns out the original scraper blade was in such bad shape, it bonded to the drum and actually removed a line of it's coating, permanently damaging the drum beyond repair. In addition, during the first few test prints, the blade was in such bad shape in left fine vertical scratches. So the above image is the result with a bad drum. Also all the foam was in really bad shape, so whenever you moved it it blew toner out the sides.

To sum it up, toner cartridges, despite being brand new and sealed, are affected by storage conditions greatly. The blade can fuse and ruin the drum, and the internal foam can disintegrate. Both are kind of irreparable without putting in more work than it's worth.

In the end, I transferred the hacked blade to a new cartridge, which worked perfectly. Even weirder is the new cartridge is actually probably 5 years older than the first, it's just how they are stored.
 

Johnnya101

Well-known member
@rickrob Moving this discussion to my toner blade thread so we don't clog up that other one.

Made a very quick drawing of an original blade I have. Measurements are approximate, and are in CM. Not sure on the angle of the bend at the top, I am guessing about 45 degrees. There is also that diagonal cut at the top right of the frame, I did not include that in mine.
New Project (1).jpg
 

retro_bill

Well-known member
Johnny,

Order me some of the drum cleaning blades.

What is wrong with the blades in the toner carts that makes them fail?

Is there step by step instructions on how to fixer the toner cart?

Thanks!
 

Johnnya101

Well-known member
I ordered two blades for now. It would be cheaper for you to buy directly off the website once shipping is factored in, but if you want I would sell you one of mine (And I could include a little bit of drum powder too). Let me know when you need instructions, and I can try my best to describe it. This is a very useful site that I used when doing mine: http://www.wb6nvh.com/Laserjet/Laserjet.htm

If you want more than one, I guess I can see if they can change the order...

The originals just go bad with age + temperature + humidity. Just like how old rubber gets hard, these silicone blades disintigrate.
 

rickrob

Well-known member
I got my last three rebuilt toners from LD Products. I had to send a couple back for replacement, because their rebuilt toners are bad some times.
I have one on the printer, two still sealed in the box, and two cleaning blades. LD doesn't rebuild them anymore, and it will be diffcult to find decent rebuilts. So these will have to do. I don't use the printer that much anyway.
 

retro_bill

Well-known member
I got them for $5.00 each. Found them in a good will store. Before I open and put in the printer, is there anything I can check to see if the blade will work properly?
 

Johnnya101

Well-known member
Not really... You can try rotating the drum by the gears on the sides and sliding the big slider open to see if the drum stays clean while turning it. Since there probably won't be any toner on it, you probably won't be able to tell if it's good or not.
 

retro_bill

Well-known member
OK, thanks.

The toner in there now is a brand new toner cartridge from Apple that was sold with the printer. So when I rotate the drum and clean the toner off and toner keeps coming back on that mean the cleaning blade needs replacement correct?
 

Johnnya101

Well-known member
Yes, if you rotate the drum and there is still toner, you need a new blade. You can either buy one from the link, or if you don't want to buy from them and would rather buy through a member, I should be getting a couple in this week or next.

To save time with using only good cartridges, rotate the drum and carefully look if there is horizontal line going across it. The drum is yellow, and the line if present will be gray. If there is a line, the drum is bad and will leave a line of black toner on paper it prints because the old blade fused to the coating and it ripped off while turning the drum. You DONT want any horizontal lines, and there should not be any vertical lines either. Very very light vertical lines are normal wear.
 

beachycove

Well-known member
Blades that have deformed over time can be retensioned with heat and rapid cooling in their new orientation. The blade just needs to press more firmly against the drum.

Obviously, this won‘t solve problems resulting from degraded components, but it can undo (some of) the effects of time.
 

Johnnya101

Well-known member
In both my cartridges, the blade material was totally gone and cracked with any pressure. I tried heating one, and it became sticky and still cracked. Just replace them if they are bad. For $12, you can't go wrong.
 
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