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powerbook AC adapter disassembly.

didius

Well-known member
Okay, fixed it!

I've replaced all of the caps, my peak atlas said both C207 and C201 leaked.

Now I get constant voltage of 7.8V

Here's an overview of the 'official' caps if anyone is interested. (with their sizes)

Code:
C108: ELNA 400V 47uF 16x25 (85°C)
C111: ELNA 50V 47uF 6x10 (105°C)
C201: ELNA 16V 1200uF 10x30 (105°C)
C202: ELNA 16V 180uF 6x15 (105°C)
C207: ELNA 16V 82uF 5x15 (105°C)
Here are the ones I've replaced them with:

Code:
C108: Rubycon 400V 100uF (105°C)
     size is important if you want it to fit back into the case, max height: 30mm, max width: 18mm
C111: Panasonic FC (Low ESR) 50V 47uF (105°C)
C201: Panasonic FM (Ultra Low ESR) 16V 1200uF (105°C)
C202: Panasonic FR (Ultra Low ESR) 16V 220uF (105°C)
C207: Panasonic FR (Ultra Low ESR) 16V 100uF (105°C)
I'm very happy with the result since I soldered my first 'starters kit' just 2 weeks a go. This is fun stuff! My Powerbook 170 boots just fine with the 'refurbished' power brick, and even the Powerbook 100 I had is starting to give a sign of life. (I guess i'll have to check the caps there :) )

 

James1095

Well-known member
Watch out for that 330 VDC bus, the big bulk filter capacitor packs quite a wallop, it is arguably more dangerous than the EHT in a CRT monitor although most people seem to have a much greater fear for monitors. Switchmode power supplies deserve a healthy amount of respect.

 

gsteemso

Well-known member
Okay, I cracked one open.
It is possible to open it without damaging the case to much. Perhaps I could glue it back together?

HPIM3726.jpg.8a7f3083415b33979570e9d45ba31f9b.jpg
Okay, I give. How’d you do that?

 
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