My case for the FloppyEmu!

[olePigeon]

Like I said, I wasn't thinking about it connecting directly, but with an external cable. It'd sit next to your computer like a floppy drive.

 

[bigmessowires]

The IDC connector is if you wanna connect it internally, right? If so, you probably don't need the case.

Yes for internal connections, but also for using the "recommended" DB-19 to IDC-20 extension cable from IEC: http://www.iec-usa.com/cgi-bin/iec/fullpic?ezV2CFGH;L1561;6

If you know of a DB-19 to DB-19 extension cable, I would love to see it! That IDC-20 cable from IEC is the only one I've found that works.

 

[olePigeon]

Not one that's already made. I was going to make one. I'll check WeirdStuff and Excess Solutions, they might have some.

 

[techknight]

Question: I dont know anything about 3D printing, however, How do you get rid of the printlines? sanding? Slightly melting with heat?

 

[olePigeon]

Well, the best way is to use a tumbler with plastic beads. Otherwise you use sandpaper. The best 3D printers are powder based, the filament printers are fairly limited in accuracy and form. However, the powder printers are generally several magnitudes more expensive than the filament based printers.

 

[olePigeon]

I have come up with a plan so cunning you could stick a tail on it and call it a weasel. I'll make a port and snap-on cover the same size as an IDC plug on the rear of the case. You can then pop off the cover and thread the IDC to D-Sub connector. What I'll also do, is make a little bracket just behind the hole so you can snugly fit a male-male IDC port, that way you could run a short jumper cable from the inner connector to an outer connector, then plug it in with the regular cable without ever having to open the case.

 

[techknight]

Powder printing seems like a better thing, They finally started making open source powder printers.

Nice thing is, if we can get CAD sharpies duplicate all the powerbook and macintosh parts into digital format, they can be powder printed with correct binder colors and get accurate colors

 

[rtype]

the best part is you can use a case to hide any hack-work inside like if you had to whip something up to make it work with a iigs :b&w:

 

[techknight]

Wholy crap, what happened to that thing...

 

[rtype]

i found it on that youtube guy eevblog

it was his teardown of the defunct handifax 1000

he took the lcd cover off and lo and behold...i think it is a pal chip. if you watch the video you will see the amazing level of botchyness about the whole thing

never seen anything like it before

eta:

 

[techknight]

I watch his stuff all the time, But I dont remember that video.

 

[uniserver]

Can't stand his voice…. just absolutely hate it. I just get the urge to hit em with a shovel!

No cracks about the IIgs floppy emu, I don't see anyone else willing to do testing.

I think that ic on there is quite crafty.

you wanna see some crap work… i should rip open one of these Chinese android tablets…

double sided foam tape/ regular tape…

Soldered idc cable connecting pcb's. etc etc very shoddy work…

edit: saw the video… well wow… haha.

i personally never seen patch work that extensive, maybe it was a prototype

All though , my IIgs / LCIII / PB100 has some pretty extensive patch work from apple!

if he was really good, he would have fired that thing up made it work.

i think that microswitch is like the macintosh portable, normally the memory is kept by battery, when you remove the battery cover it probably switches over to a 3v coin cell some where, so it retains the data saved, while changing AAA batteries.

 

[techknight]

He is a pretty good electronics engineer, but I find his knowledge is mostly derived from the mathematics aspect. Which most engineers are taught that way, and thats not a bad thing. Im my case, its ass-backwards as I learned engineering from repair, and overall experience in general, and know very little on the math side of it, which you can imagine doesnt make it easy for me on programming.

I guess we both have our advantages, and disadvantages. For me, when I layout a PCB I know where to place components to maximize the life of the board, from a repair aspect I pretty much learned the cause and effect of that scenario. But if i had to engineer a circuit totally from math, I could never do it, however I know generally how most circuitry works, so i can pretty much design it anyway, and fine-tune the details/values by using math from a datasheet, if necessary.

Engineers that come from a mathematics background (as most engineers do), typically dont think about service or the next guy that has to work on it. I find this very often with cars, and most electronics in general lol. Or arnt designed for service period. Since I came from a very different background, I design things to be serviced. Even on some of the industrial electronics I have worked on arnt designed for easy access or service either. And the PCBs are routed out very poorly where heat will dry out capacitors and result in early failure.

 

[uniserver]

Ya lol.

Just like that guy that thinks he needs 4 years of college, a $10,000 snap on tool box/kit

And you show up with a $19.99 stanly tool kit and a $2.99 heli coil kit to fix the spark plug that he striped out lol

I love the guy. Hate his voice. It makes me wanna puke, really, his squeaky high voice is more then I can handle.

Techknight just needs more time, at least that's what it seems to me, I think your work

Is always keeping you extra busy.

 

[techknight]

Yea it does keep me extra busy, because not only is repair my day job, I also have a 2nd job doing contract electronics engineering and repair for Major Display LLC, which was former Santech Inc, who designed and manufactured electronic scoreboards.

Trying to finish up the control console programming and design that will go to Apopka high school in florida, their new baseball scoreboard. My vintage mac nutness is starting to obstruct the design of my programming. LOL

Not to mention, I am in the process of starting to pack up and move.

 

[olePigeon]

Thought I'd post pictures of version 2.0 that I printed, though I've already started changes on it for version 3.0 to allow for the external ribbon cable.

As you can see for the SD card slot, I got the measurements wrong. I'll have to nudge it over. But not too shabby! I think I also need to add clips on the sides somewhere. Or maybe screw holes.

[attachment=2]1.JPG[/attachment]

[attachment=1]2.JPG[/attachment]

[attachment=0]3.JPG[/attachment]

 

[uniserver]

Wow that's like black magic . Good job

 

[ScutBoy]

Put me on the "interested in buying one" list.

How will you handle the buttons?

 

[olePigeon]

I'm just going to print some round buttons that have a stick going down to the real buttons. I may make the button holes bigger, though, in version 3.0. I'm going to experiment with making some clips, as well, to clip the board down and the case. Right now both are connected via friction, which works fine, except if you were to drop it everything would go flying everywhere. Plus, the friction parts would ware out after a while, and it's stop holding together. Best to clip it down.

 

[bigmessowires]

Very cool! My wife got me a Printrbot for my birthday. I'd love to experiment with this!