jmacz battery bombed IIci

jmacz

Well-known member
From the lot I picked up a month or so back, there were two IIci computers. One went to a forum member. The other was a disaster inside due to the PRAM battery having been left in there all these years. Opening up the case, I was greeted with this (and this was after I had cleaned up what looked like animal/insect debris and dirt:

IMG_4969.JPG

Battery and the holder were toast, the holder was hanging on by one joint. Five to six legs on the nearest ROM chip had rust on them. The oscillator as well as the nearby 32K clock were both rusted/corroded. Two diodes (D7 and D8) were crumbling if you touched them. LED light rusted and one leg broken off. The chips in the upper left corner (UB13, UD13, UE13)... well UD13 was rattling around the case. UE13 had most of its legs corroded and broken. UB13 had legs lifted off the pads. Then in the lower left corner, RP1, RP2, UA4, and UA5 had lifted legs, as did UB2 and UB3. All this chip damage was from capacitor leakage it looks like. Also had the metal holders for the SIMMs rusted and same with the reset/interrupt buttons. The other side of the board had multiple broken traces (under the battery).

A few more shots:

IMG_5056.JPG IMG_5057.JPG

Removed some caps and chips... found a missing pad underneath...

IMG_5068.JPG

Here's a shot of the diodes and I wasn't feeling good about the RTC chip..

IMG_5071.JPG

Thought those (D7 and D8) were transistors and puzzled by the third pin on each one unused... @Bolle explained they are just diodes but in a SOT-23 package. They crumbled away when I touched them. Nice. And bunch of broken traces underneath where the battery was.

A shot of a couple of the broken traces... this was on the other side of the battery.

IMG_5180.JPG

So went to work, scraped away some solder mask to reveal the copper underneath, and started adding bodge wires. The shot below is some of that work plus the new oscillator and clock.

IMG_5182.JPG

Replaced the D7 and D8 diodes, cleaned up the RTC chip legs and luckily, things seemed ok. One leg was off the pad but that was quickly fixed. Here's a picture with the new battery holder in place. Also replaced the LED, I think the LED itself was ok but the legs corroded off and were too short. I decided to go with a different color since this whole project was just a fun exercise. Not trying to be accurate here.

IMG_5183.JPG

Also cleaned up the legs of the ROM chip, luckily the rust was superficial. I don't use the burnin edge connectors but it looked ugly so decided to clean those up by gently scraping away the oxidation/corrosion. Deoxit helped a bit but it still required scraping.

Ended up scraping off green corrosion on the legs of multiple chips. And of course, had to resolder the lifted legs on all the various chips that had issues.

The 68030 CPU also had a bent leg and it was touching the pin next to it. Had to fix that. And then all the usual capacitors had to be replaced. New tantalums and axials installed as well as a bath in isopropyl alcohol and brushing:

IMG_5209.JPG

Nice and clean. I was turning it on throughout this process to test as I went along. Really satisfying when I got video for the first time, then a bit later after a few more fixes, a chime, and then a few more fixes later a cursor and blinking disk icon. There were some frustrating moments as well -- for example I totally forgot to look for the ROM select jumper... it was missing and didn't see this for 15 minutes while trying to debug. The CPU leg being bent into another pin, that was annoying too, missed it so many times. Also had the rear power switch twisted so it was constantly rebooting, took me a few minutes to figure that out after a few curse words.

But it was finally up and running. Cleaned and fixed the floppy. Tested the Nubus slots. Tested all ports (except the external floppy drive one as I don't have anything that I can test that with anymore). I borrowed a power supply from another one of my IIci's -- will have to find a stock PSU enclosure so that I can build another ATX conversion later.

To commemorate being saved from the garbage pile, I decided to give this particular IIci a custom decorative touch:

IMG_5228.JPG

New white case with a bomb icon next to the model badging. :cool: and here it is complete with a matching ADB mouse II (I have a keyboard and monitor I'm working on to match the same color scheme).

IMG_5235.jpg

Finally complete. Not quite sure why I need two IIcis, but there ya go. (and I've got a third I received recently). Hmm, the sunlight is making the color look more normal, but the unit (and mouse) is bright white.
 

joshc

Well-known member
I don't use the burnin edge connectors but it looked ugly so decided to clean those up by gently scraping away the oxidation/corrosion. Deoxit helped a bit but it still required scraping.
You can re-tin them with solder so they don't corrode as easily in future, if the board is ever exposed to a humid environment for example. It's unlikely anything would really happen but just in case. Or you could coat them over with some sort of varnish.

Also replaced the LED, I think the LED itself was ok but the legs corroded off and were too short. I decided to go with a different color since this whole project was just a fun exercise.
I like this, it's a nice touch.

You are doing a really good job with your projects, each one is so well done. The IIci is a really nice Mac - very expandable, can take a lot of RAM, runs a large variety of OS versions, and is even better with an 040 upgrade. The IIci was a great all-rounder Mac for a lot of people for a long time; much cheaper than the larger IIx/IIfx and a good alternative even to Quadras, it wasn't until PPC came along that some people started thinking about upgrading I think.
 

jmacz

Well-known member
Thanks guys.

You can re-tin them with solder so they don't corrode as easily in future, if the board is ever exposed to a humid environment for example. It's unlikely anything would really happen but just in case. Or you could coat them over with some sort of varnish.

Darn, that's a good idea. I put lacquer over it already but I should be able to get it off. I'd rather tin it. Thanks!

You are doing a really good job with your projects, each one is so well done.

Appreciate it!
 

olePigeon

Well-known member
If you want the lettering and bomb to be a bit more permanent, you could use water-slide decals.
 

jmacz

Well-known member
If you want the lettering and bomb to be a bit more permanent, you could use water-slide decals.

They actually are water slide decals right now. :)

I have been looking at coming up with a rig to perform dye sublimation to make it even more permanent but haven’t had time. Need something that can apply pressure and heat without damaging the paint/abs. People use hair curling irons for small items (like key caps) but that won’t work for things like cases where you can’t apply the pressure via a clamping force.
 

Hopfenholz

Well-known member
Fantastic work. Any chance of a photo of one next to a normal platinum one so we can perceive the colour better?
 

olePigeon

Well-known member
@jmacz I've been wanting to get a few of my 68040s UV inkjet printed with an Apple rainbow. I've emailed every single printer in the greater Bay Area that does UV inkjet printing, and not a single one will send a response. :/
 

jmacz

Well-known member
Fantastic work. Any chance of a photo of one next to a normal platinum one so we can perceive the colour better?

IMG_5267.JPG

I don't have a perfectly platinum case to compare against. But the bottom is a stock case with some yellowing. The middle one is the color most of my macs are which is a neutral gray which is close to the stock but a little bit darker. And the top is the new one this thread is covering.

@jmacz I've been wanting to get a few of my 68040s UV inkjet printed with an Apple rainbow. I've emailed every single printer in the greater Bay Area that does UV inkjet printing, and not a single one will send a response. :/

Hmm, interesting.. too bad they haven't responded.. :(
 

joshc

Well-known member
Apple platinum is a warm grey platinum color. Hartmut Esslinger disliked the beige color used for the Apple II, III, Lisa and original Macintosh. So an off white color was used instead. In PANTONE's color system, the color used for the IIci is probably closest to 420 or 421.

According to Apple, "Apple does not normally use PMS color charts or Pantone color numbers to designate the platinum color that is now the company standard. Our platinum color number on a coded PMS chart is somewhere between 420 and 421, somewhat closer to 421. (This depends on the age of the chart and the light source used for viewing it.)"
 

jmacz

Well-known member
I considered getting someone to create a spray paint for me in either 420 or 421 but it was too annoying and costly (when I looked at it), so just went for something close enough for me. My intent was never to make it exactly the same. And obviously with this pure white one, that was clearly not the intent :)
 

joshc

Well-known member
Yeah, any colour can work. Paint it space grey or purple next time!
But if you're going for a closest to stock look as possible, either 420 or 421 is the way to go.
 

3lectr1cPPC

Well-known member
Something I’ve wanted to do for a long time is to make a custom spray painted PowerBook. I’ve just been waiting for the right one to use.
 
Top