• Updated 2023-07-12: Hello, Guest! Welcome back, and be sure to check out this follow-up post about our outage a week or so ago.

imac G3 cleaning tips

tanaquil

Well-known member
Having just spent the last two days cleaning up a whole flock of fruit imacs (and I still have the later-generation indigo, ruby and blueberry to do), I thought I'd pass along what I learned for the benefit of others. Apologies if this duplicates threads elsewhere, I didn't find any on a quick search.

The best all-around tools are windex (obviously, spray the cloth and not the computer) and a magic eraser with a bowl of water. I would dust and wipe down, windex lightly all over, use the magic eraser on stubborn spots, and windex again. (Electronic-safe cleaning wipes for the screen.)

A common problem with the colored models - at least, every one of mine had it, and most of them came from a school - is paint scrape stains on the butt and sides of the computer, from being pushed too close to a painted wall. Lessons learned: Goo Gone can be used (lightly!) to remove stickers and gummy residue, but Goof Off (especially Pro strength) is much too strong and will destroy the colored plastic finish, leaving dull whitish streaks. Fortunately I discovered this before I used too much of it.

Unless the plastic underneath is scratched, white paint scrapes can be removed with the magic eraser. It works like, well, magic, but you have to be patient and take your time. Small rubbing strokes, just like using a pencil eraser, dipping the sponge repeatedly in water, until even the thickest stains are all gone. In my case, only a few actual scratches were left in the plastic, and most were nearly invisible compared to the nasty white paint splotches.

In the case of the damaged spots caused by the application of Goof Off, I discovered that the best remedy was - of all things! - Lemon Pledge (again, sprayed onto a cloth before applying). Several coats of Lemon Pledge later, the damage was much less visible.

If you have to clean the inside of the computer, the back plate and lower bucket can be removed (with much swearing), and the lower bucket contains no delicate electronics, so it can be washed and even submerged in soapy water. This was the only thing that got rid of the mixture of nasty stains that had worked its way into every nook and cranny of the base of the strawberry unit that had cola (?) spilled on it. Fortunately the bin of soapy dishwater worked, because I was seriously considering denture cleaning solution. 

I'm amazed at how much better the computers look now. Such pretty colors!

 

Nathan

Well-known member
I would point out that CRTs are glass screens and so as far as I know they don't need any kind of special cleaning wipes. Whatever is suitable for cleaning glass in general should work fine, although you obviously would prefer stuff that doesn't streak or leave residue and again you should avoid spraying the screen itself to ensure no liquid dripping into the computer around the edges.

 

belgaonkar

Well-known member
I like to use Tire Shine on older closed plastics (iMacs, iBooks, etc.) It adds a shiny finish and hides the blemishes.

 

BadGoldEagle

Well-known member
Thanks for all of that info tanaquil !

I just picked up a Graphite G3. The case is looking good, apart from a couple of shallow scratches on the translucent plastic. Do you know how I could get rid of those?

And there's something I've always wanted to ask but never got around to until I finally got one of these puppies... How do you get rid of the color discolouration on the cables?

The keyboard cable in particular looks gold now, and it doesn't go well with the rest of the computer... 

I can't find that information anywhere but maybe I just don't know where to look.

Does retrobright work? 

 

Carboy7

Well-known member
Random question: How do you shine/buff the plastic of the iMac? I now want to be a perfectionist and clean the G3 I own, but don't want to screw up the patterns.

 

tanaquil

Well-known member
I only have solid color G3s, so always proceed with caution and test an inconspicuous area first, but my advice would be windex. Anyone know of anything better?

 

tanaquil

Well-known member
BadGoldEagle: as for scratches, it depends on whether they are really scratches, or transfers/scuff marks.

Start, if possible, with an area that is out of the way, and try using the magic eraser technique. If it is a scuff or paint transfer, you should gradually see the mark disappear. If it is a physical scratch, it won't budge, and you may be able to feel a groove in the plastic. Scratches can't be fixed (that I know of), but carefully cleaning around them and windexing the whole thing will probably make them so inconspicuous that you won't notice them any more.

As for discoloration on the cables, scrubbing with any good cleaning agent should help. Start with a small area to test for damage (not that I would expect any to be visible on a cable, but you never know). Usually I find the discoloration is just dirt. If the discoloration is permanent and no amount of cleaning works, I guess one could try retrobrite, I don't know. Anyone ever retrobrited a cable? 

 

BadGoldEagle

Well-known member
They are proper scratches. I was thinking about using car polish, but I don't know.

Anyone ever retrobrited a cable? 
I tried retrobright on old platinum power & ADB cables.  Didn't work...

That thing looks promising. It says it removes yellowing on clear plastics too. Might work for cleaning those cables too.

 
Last edited by a moderator:

tanaquil

Well-known member
I'll be interested to hear your results. Someone earlier up the thread suggested a product called Tire Shine, I haven't tried it.

 

omidimo

Well-known member
I used Novus Polish on small scratches and it turned out to be pretty good, I mostly stuck with the fine scratch remover.

 

SlateBlue

Well-known member
+1 for the Novus plastic polish. In some cases, you'll have to work patiently for the desired finish, but it does a really good job.

 

BadGoldEagle

Well-known member
I will give that one a go next September.

BTW, is there a particular spot to look for on a G3 that collects dust? My 400MHz Graphite (DV model, no fan) likes to overheat, and I think convection cooling isn't working as it should. Or maybe that's just normal?

 

SlateBlue

Well-known member
I wouldn't say overheating is normal. Make sure there is enough room around the iMac for air to flow. You can try to remove the bottom of the case and blow compressed air throughout the internals to remove whatever dust may be present. I don't think these have regular thermal paste between CPU and heatsink (which can dry out and become less effective), but rather some kind of thermal tape/pad that should last virtually forever (someone correct me if I'm wrong).

 

SlateBlue

Well-known member
Additional thought: The hard drive might be creating enough heat to cause the Mac to shutdown. If it's the original drive, the spindle lubrication could be degraded enough to allow for higher friction which means higher temps.

 

rsolberg

Well-known member
The thermal pad between the CPU and heatsink on these can and often does degrade. It's worth removing, cleaning the mating surfaces, and properly applying a replacement product. I usually have Arctic Silver Ceramique or a similar electrically non-conductive product on hand.

 

EagleTG

Active member
+1 on the Novus products, they are very good.

Additionally, I'm not sure that it matters much considering the limited duration of application, but I generally stay away from ammonia-based cleaners around plastics.  They can cause damage/yellowing.  That said, my favorite cleaner for plastic parts is Glass Plus.  It's ammonia-free and actually smells pretty good too.   :)

 
Top