Awful Macintosh SE FDHD Revival

[PB145B]

Doesnt matter what the yoke connector is and if its compatible

ALL The CRTs are interchangeable between ALL the B&W compact macs. Its just a matter of swapping the yoke between the tubes and retuning any geometry. 

Yep, I saw your video on that.  

 

[LaPorta]

Indeed, thanks TachKnight...I simply didn't know if he had all that stuff to go with the CRT.

 

[techknight]

Yea, most 9" CRTs are interchangeable with one another, even with other machines. 

As long as it has the correct beam deflection angle, and the yoke fits on the neck, it'll work. 

 

[PotatoFi]

Here's what the case looked like at the beginning of the day.



I left some water out in a bin overnight, and this morning at 9 or 10 AM it was about 75 degrees.



I dumped in six bottles of 40 proof hydrogen peroxide. I noticed that all of the caps felt really loose on these, and the little sealing thing came off in the cap. It makes me wonder if these were really sealed up...



Sadly, it just didn't get very hot today. I never saw it clear 95°F. The fishtank heater brings it up to 90°F on it's own.



After about 4 hours, I swapped in the back.



Towards the end of the day, I took the rusty chassis and logic board shield over to my brother's shop. He makes AR-15 lowers and accessories, and has a lot of great tools, such as a sandblasting cabinet. I've never used one of these, and found that it's pretty hard to see what you're doing in the cabinet.



Here are the results. He instructed me to not touch the parts - just go home, hit them with compressed air, and apply primer.





Of course, I'm out of masking tape, so to mask off any metal parts that I wanted to keep exposed, I used black electrical tape. You can see a tiny square of it on the chassis. I tried to mask off any parts where I thought connecting grounds would be important.



My brother gave me a can of high-temperature primer. It's designed for headers and other parts for engines... because... you know. Macs get super hot.

But seriously, it's primer. That's all I wanted.



It does seem a bit "blue". I'm trying to decide whether to go buy a can of flat grey, or just put it back together as-is. Let me know what you think.

 

[maceffects]

What an improvement.  A slight blue hue just makes it unique

 

[Garrett]

That machine has came a long ways. Great job on the restoration!

 

[bibilit]

Yes a blasting cabinet is great, but hard to see through after a couple of minutes, it's more a hit and miss game.

Yes again, touching the sandblasted metal with your fingers is not a good idea, the damp skin is to be avoided in bare metal.

I will go for a grey or metal finish, but just my point of view.

Concerning the Retrobrite, i have had better results boiling water first, and mixing it with Vanish on a second time (don't use peroxide anymore, Vanish is more easy to use and do more or less the same trick)

 

[Papichulo]

I bet this gonna work, SEs are bulletproof, never seen one bad.

I saw one with a bust in screen and pink paint over it in a recylce center before

 

[PB145B]

I saw one with a bust in screen and pink paint over it in a recylce center before

I bet it would’ve worked fine with a new CRT.  

 

[Papichulo]

I bet it would’ve worked fine with a new CRT.  

Probably true and this SE fdhd that he did looks great!

 

[joshc]

Concerning the Retrobrite, i have had better results boiling water first, and mixing it with Vanish on a second time (don't use peroxide anymore, Vanish is more easy to use and do more or less the same trick)

Do you mean you just mix hot water and Vanish and nothing else? I have a tub of Vanish but found it hard to get peroxide cheap enough.

 

[bibilit]

Do you mean you just mix hot water and Vanish and nothing else? I have a tub of Vanish but found it hard to get peroxide cheap enough.

Yes, nothing else.

Vanish has already peroxide in the formula, is easy to get, cheaper and probably less dangerous.

The only problem, the magic is only activated in hot water, so mixing it with boiling water will kick the process in action.

Sun exposure will keep it going, moreover you can see the reaction when the bubbling takes place.

 

[dochilli]

How many Vanish do you use for 10 liters of water?

 

[bibilit]

Not much, a couple of spoonfuls..., it's a bit of trial and error game.

But you can have a try with a test item, i did it recently in very yellowed mouse, and it came pretty white in the end.

in my opinion, Vanish is also less harmful than pure peroxide, i had troubles with peroxide in my first tests, with some marbling effects.

The only advise is to have the item fully submerged to avoid any unexposed area.

 

[Bendix]

Are we talking Vanish powder or gel?

 

[bibilit]

Powder

 

[Bendix]

Do you include the keys, too, or might that do damage to the letters?

 

[bibilit]

Do you include the keys, too, or might that do damage to the letters?

You are probably talking about the keyboard ?

never had any issue with keys, only the front Apple Logo should be removed, as this is affected by the peroxide.

But as i am only using the vanish powder and not any strong peroxide, don't think it will be any problem in the end.

stickers and silkscreen letters are not affected in the process.

 

[adb9001]

Completely enjoying this journey and the creative solutions...particularly liked the Hot Sauce approach. ;-). Thank you for sharing.

@bibilit thank you for the Vanish recommendation. I believe (but could be mistaken) that in the USA/Canada that powder is called Resolve Oxi Action (in-Wash Powder Stain Remover). I am curious what are the main ingredients in your Vanish powder? 

 

[bibilit]

Yes, probably sold with different names around the world, but in my opinion  the same product. 

Resolve name seems to be used in US/Canada while Vanish is used in UK and other parts of the globe... marketing trick probably. 

Here some Information found on the site, not much anyway. 

http://www.rbeuroinfo.com/index.php?SKU=23018&action=product_details.php&COUNTRY=FR&LANGUAGE=FR