3 - Powerbook 100's None work.

[uniserver]

I'v only seen that twin cam version once

So did that second camshaft turn it into a rocket ship?

Heck, even the single cam version, I would stright-pipe the cat,

install a fresh set of NGK plugs, a full tank of Amoco Silver, and it would shitnget!!!!

 

[Brett B.]

Mine was an automatic. Started slipping really bad going up a hill, then BANG. Whatever broke inside it also cracked the transmission case, pretty violent ordeal.

I thought about putting a head gasket in it but some dude wanted to trade a sweet '73 Dodge motorhome for it and I said hell yes and never looked back. I was tired of dropping $200/month average on it for repairs.

 

[uniserver]

by chance did you ever do a Transmission service on it?

New ATF fluid / New Filter?

Also were you BAJA'n it off road or in a farm field when it blew?

( lol )

real quick, what all did you have serviced on it? a 200/month bill seems pretty steep.

 

[bbraun]

There are 2x rows of small radial caps at the back of the LCD panel that need to be replaced.

Here's a picture of my disassembled LCD. The 2x4 row of black things are the radial caps. They seem to be 3.3uF 35V as best I can tell. Thanks for pointing those out, I didn't find them in my previous attempts. There are two radial caps on the center controller board, and that's all I could find. All the replacement radial caps I can find for those are too tall to reinstall the front bezel, so if anyone knows a replacement part for that, I'd appreciate knowing what it is. There's none on the brightness/contrast board or the cabling board.

 

[uniserver]

That is odd, they look like leaking tantalums. but they are black and rectangular,

 

[bbraun]

They're tin can radial electrolytics encased in a square plastic shell.

 

[uniserver]

i would replace those with some tiny ceramics.

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/TDK/CGA5L1X7R1V335K/?qs=%2fha2pyFadugyXufOATqO62iQWK4GMmnKyc1yBDpmzms%3d

here are some cheaper tantalum caps

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/AVX/TAJB335M035RNJ/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtZ1n0r9vR22cbTpViMZtapg8jqOYAn9BA%3d

If they are small enough you could lay them right across the pads,

I like the ceramics because you wont have to be concerned with polarity

 

[Brett B.]

by chance did you ever do a Transmission service on it?
New ATF fluid / New Filter?

Also were you BAJA'n it off road or in a farm field when it blew?

( lol )

real quick, what all did you have serviced on it? a 200/month bill seems pretty steep.

Nope, nope, and no. Got it when I was 18, before I knew anything about cars. Don't think I ever checked the fluid, maybe that had something to do with it. I dunno. I got really deep into fixing my own stuff with that car... the $200/month was a lot of piddly small stuff, alternator, starter, front struts, CV axles, steering parts, brakes, tires, etc... never had that much stuff go wrong with a car at one time. Probably would have had to max out a couple credit cards if I didn't pick up some car repair skills along the way.

 

[uniserver]

Don't think I ever checked the fluid

lol yeah that is very bad with any automatic transmission, manuals are slightly more forgiving, but then you would be doing a clutch every 100k miles.

alternator, starter, front struts, CV axles, steering parts, brakes, tires

well i took my starter apart and greased the bearings and replaced the brushes / filed down the solenoid pads, same with the Nippondenso Co. Ltd. 日本電装株式会社, alternator, greased and installed new brushes.

tie rods were like 17 bucks a piece, and struts... if you did them your self with the autozone loaner spring compressor they were only 45 bucks a piece.

yes those CV boots would dry rot and break... the key is to catch it before the CV's start knocking around turns. and hell even if they are slightly knocking they can still be saved, they sold a split boot at advance auto for 9 bucks, a couple outer boots and , some really good clean up job, cut the hunks of the bad ones off, grease / install split boots and your good to go.

 

[Brett B.]

Yup... keep in mind this was a decade ago and if I knew then, what I know now, about fixing stuff - none of that would have been an issue.

Also back then the only parts stores we had in town were NAPA and CarQuest...$$$

 

[uniserver]

Sometimes I have to go to NAPA to get parts for my M35, but they are always expensive.

Autozone / Pep Boys / Advance Auto --- Those guys are great.... O'Reilly, has the accu-turn break lathe I like. Pep Boys has that old beater AMCO brake lathe, blah... they were good 60 years ago... when nothing better had been invented.

also tires.... i always call the tire places before I go out, and ask them if they have any like new sets(4) of used tires they want to sell me.

lotta times they will say no,,, or do not have anything in your size that is ok, you can call back a week later,

I will get a great set of 80 - 90% used tires installed for under 130 every time. ( Michelin / Goodyear / Pirelli )

 

[Brett B.]

I go back and forth between parts stores these days. CarQuest, without fail, has weird/obscure pieces for my older stuff. A lot of the time they've even had parts in stock for stuff built in the 60's. Very surprising.

I used to buy from O'Reilly exclusively but their MasterPro line of parts has gone WAAAAAAAY downhill in terms of quality, even to the point of being dangerous (think about polyurethane suspension bushings that explode when you torque the fasteners to spec.) I get most of what I need from AutoZone now, much better quality control, and I can sometimes get them to price match Rock Auto.

 

[James1095]

They're tin can radial electrolytics encased in a square plastic shell.

Sega Game Gear handhelds have a bunch of those same capacitors, and they fail the same way as the more common vertical SMD 'lytics. I think they're somewhat common in Japanese portable electronics of the era.

As for Toyotas, the engines seem to be fairly bulletproof, at least the inline-4's I've dealt with. The manual transmissions are pretty good too, but the automatics I'm not so sure. There are a lot of turd automatic transmissions out there, especially up through the 80s. Usually the automatic was an afterthought for the USA market, shoehorned into a space intended for a manual gearbox. The Saab 900 was the posterchild of this. Neat car, but there is a reason there are very, very few auto tranny versions still on the road.

 

[bbraun]

I replaced those caps on the back of the LCD with TDK CGA5L1X7R1V335K ceramics and it seems to work well. I replaced them on 2 of the displays and both are now working normally. I didn't recap the 3rd yet, it's delaminating .

I completely recapped all 3 logic boards. 2 chime, but only 1 actually displays anything and boots.

 

[uniserver]

intersting… they seem like a fickle beast… just like the portable….. just like the se/30

The cap goo probably rots out some VIA's and Traces?

Crap..

 

[uniserver]

ok so this is what i did.

i totally did the lazy mans re-cap, witch is fine as long as its mine and not anyones i am working on.

before this thing was completely dead.

now it boots up, runs great, all is well. dead internal hard drive, boots from zip 100 just fine

I replaced all the 1uf 16v caps with ceramic variants.

I replaced all the 10uf 16v caps with ceramic variants.

All the other caps had shiny pads and no signs of leakage.

 

[Trash80toHP_Mini]

I think I need to buy that re-cap kit, comrade.

 

[finkmac]

Woo, brilliant... Maybe I'll get mine recapped...

Did you replace the LCD caps as well?

Is that pink blotch on the screen from LCD damage?

 

[uniserver]

sure, no didn't do the screen, screen for the moment seems to be working good.

In the picture it came out pinkish, Its where someone pressed really hard on the screen, so there is some b&w LCD leakage.

The other 2 pb100's seem to have no damage to the LCD.

 

[insaneboy]

Usually the automatic was an afterthought for the USA market, shoehorned into a space intended for a manual gearbox. The Saab 900 was the posterchild of this. Neat car, but there is a reason there are very, very few auto tranny versions still on the road.

I found the opposite, mostly just automatic 900s still around, the 5 speed manual in those, particularly in a Turbo is very failure prone. Even my mom's. 50k mi and second gear syncro started to go, bad because she's a super smooth gentle driver, doubt the turbo ever got a chance to spool up in that entire 50k mi :lol:

Personally I've had better luck with manuals, only issues I've had *knock on wood, because my current car's trans is making lots of interesting noises* broken clutch spring, with lots of wear material left, only guess is fatigue from age killed it('74 Karmann Ghia) and I bought a car cheep because the trans was dead, it had been run with no oil. Automatics on the other hand... I've had 75% failure rate(had 4, three had trans failures) so I just avoid them.

back on topic, replacing caps seems to fix almost everything