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JDW

MacEffects Clear Case REVIEW, for SE & SE/30

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Folks, let me be clear.  MacEffects is worthy of your consideration.

 

 

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It’s a stunning case. The only thing that worries me is that with everything on display I would be looking for a CRT with a perfect silvered back. Maybe powder coat all of the metal frame pieces too. Clean up all the blobby hot glue on the analog board. Make all my SIMMs match. And of course a neat rainbow ribbon cable like that one... 

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Another member removed the exterior Aquadag on the CRT leaving it very shiny and silver. Apparently there were no ill effects. I think he used Isopropyl alcohol with rag to remove.  I’ve not tried that but the result did look stunning. 

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19 hours ago, aeberbach said:

Make all my SIMMs match.

Don't bother, just put the prettiest one in the front. [:)]  @maceffects, now we need a batch of 16MB SIMMs that look really nice from the front. Red PCBs would definitely make them faster. [:D]

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It's not mere glue, it's a specific compound used in power supplies, but the name escapes me. Electrical and high temperature characteristic of said gunk were carefully formulated. Since you're modding a display piece, removal without replacement might be a better option?

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Really? I figured it was simply a way to stop top-heavy capacitors from pulling on their joints too much. Maybe my hot glue gun doesn't cut it...

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Nice video, thanks for putting it up @JDW!  I like the rainbow ribbon cable; I just found the same in an SE FDHD shipped to me (with a third party tray installed for a HD).

 

It really is a beautiful case to work on; props to @maceffects for getting this over the line after so much work.

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8 hours ago, PB145B said:

Great video! About the glue, pretty sure it’s regular old hot glue. Nothing special.

I use TECBOND 248 for both capacitor glue and and for bonding the speaker to the front panel of the Mac SE series.  I probably wouldn't use the cheap stuff that comes with a gun or from Walmart.  That said it would probably still work. 

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Thank you, @Byrd. Mark J. of MacEffects really put a lot of love into his masterpieces. As mentioned in my video, even Apple recognizes that effort, showing the case, albeit indirectly, in their secretive lab at WWDC 2020.

 

The hot glue you see me use on the clear speaker in my video is the same stuff you see me use in my analog board recap videos. I bought it in Japan.  There’s nothing special or expensive about it. It looks fine to me.

Edited by JDW

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8 hours ago, LaPorta said:

Not to totally derail this, but MacEffects, why would you recommend against it?

In most cases the stuff that comes with a glue gun is a sort of generic all purpose glue.  It will bond everything but isn't as good as an application specific glue.  TECBOND 248 is acrylic based and designed for various applications as well but it does very good at bonding smooth surfaces.  I did probably mischaracterize Walmart, they may sell comparable glue.

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8 hours ago, PB145B said:

Great video! About the glue, pretty sure it’s regular old hot glue. Nothing special.

If it's white, try melting it with the tip of a hot glue gun. If it doesn't budge, it's silastic silicone and moisture cures at room temperature, it's not applied like hot glue.

https://www.farnell.com/datasheets/1724100.pdf

 

That said, I've seen a lot of clear hot melt glue on Compact Mac Analog Boards. They're not subjected to the high temps found inside power supply cans, so it should probably be fine if it's really needed at all for a display machine?

 

Edited by Trash80toHP_Mini
apparently I can no longer type or spell.

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8 hours ago, Trash80toHP_Mini said:

If it's white, try melting the white stuff with the tip of a hot glue gun. If it doesn't budge, it's silastic silicone and moisture cures at room temperature, it's not applied like hot glue.

https://www.farnell.com/datasheets/1724100.pdf

 

That said, I've seen a lot of clear hot melt glue on Compact Mac Analog Boards. They're not subjected to the high temps found inside power supply cans, so it should probably be fine if it's really needed at all for a display machine.

You may be right, and I've not yet recapped my power supply.  I suppose I'll need to re-watch @JDW comprehensive video and make it happen. 

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Inside a PSU can, you can bet on it. It's @JDW's thread, so I'm sure he'll chime in soon without you needing to wade through the video just for that answer. [;)]

 

I need to do the same to my SE/30 and SE, has he or anyone else got a list of part numbers from Mouser or Digi-Key for the task?

Edited by Trash80toHP_Mini

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8 hours ago, Trash80toHP_Mini said:

Inside a PSU can, you can bet on it. It's @JDW's thread, so I'm sure he'll chime in soon without you needing to wade through the video just for that answer. [;)]

 

I need to do the same to my SE/30 and SE, has he or anyone else got a list of part numbers from Mouser or Digi-Key for the task?

Here is the link he posted for capacitor list: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/18X-EN67lQdZ2crCBAlkHrtqCCoJK6cLw_BkIYdlJvgs/edit#gid=0

 

Here is the link to his video (highly recommended):

 

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10 hours ago, Trash80toHP_Mini said:

It's @JDW's thread, so I'm sure he'll chime in soon without you needing to wade through the video just for that answer. [;)]

Well, it is summer time now, so a wade through my videos might turn out to be quite cool and refreshing.  :-) 

 

I'm not sure which PSU and caps you gentlemen are speaking of regarding hot glue, but if you wade through my videos, you will see me selectively use hot glue.  It's more important on the analog board than on something like the HD20SC SONY PSU because the big caps on the analog board are shooting out to the side, so there is much more pressure put on those two legs, and that is compounded by the fact you have a 60mm fan pounding those caps with microvibrations while the Mac is on.  A tiny dab of hot glue will lessen the stress.  The key point here is, you don't want something to cause the caps to leak over time because they are fluid filled.

 

I put Mouser Carts in the text description under all my recapping videos on YouTube.  You must watch the videos on YouTube to see that text description.  On a desktop computer, you must click SHOW MORE to expand it.  And yes, you can even find it on mobile too, but again, you must be watching on YouTube to see that text.  If you've never read through my text descriptions before you are in for a treat because I often pack them full of useful info, sometimes all the way to the 5000 character limit.  I even include Amazon links to useful tools you might not have.

 

Why offer people a Mouser Cart instead of a link to Console5?  Honestly, I wish Console5 would publish detailed specifications of all the capacitors they use so I could just link to them instead of spending hours making my Mouser Carts.  But the fact is, you really don't know what brand caps you will get with Console5 until they arrive, nor do you know the part numbers even when they arrive.  All the caps I choose are Nichicon or Panasonic or similar trusted brand names.  I also choose capacitors with ESR in mind and the Hour rating in mind too -- most I pick are 5000 to 10000 hour caps.  It pretty much goes without saying I choose only 105°C or higher rated caps.  And yes, all that really does matter.  You don't need an EE degree to pick good caps, but it helps, and I happen to have one.  So I am not taking random guesses about the caps I select for others to use.  I also pick caps in light of Larry Pina's recommendations as well.

 

Bear in mind that Mouser has no affiliate program so I get no kick backs at all for making the Mouser Carts.  It's also high maintenance for me too because when Mouser suddenly runs dry of stock, I get no notifications at all, and I only find out when a viewer tells me, then I need to visit Mouser and find a suitable replacement cap, then update the Mouser Cart.  It's really a lot of work for me, but I do it because I'd love it if somebody did that for me.  I'm a firm believer in "what goes around comes around."  Maybe someday some good things will happen to me.  That's really my biggest motivation for making videos that help others.  Helping others never gets old.  I really enjoy doing it.  Getting paid for doing it would be nice, but I'm not even close to being able to quite my day job for YouTube.  I wish I could since my day job is only paying my rent these days.  The economic situation here in Japan stinks.

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Wading through just about anything to get just a little bit of something hidden therein ain't relaxing. I like to leisurely watch your videos, maybe with a cold glass of lemonade in hand. They're much appreciated by all here I think and thanks much! :approve:

 

Edited by Trash80toHP_Mini

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I really appreciate the Mouser carts. They ship all over the world, they have a huge range and if your first filter term is "in stock" you get no nasty surprises when a part is something you need quickly. Second, if an EE already went to the trouble of making a cart it's saving me a lot of time - thanks again.

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@JDW forgot to say I feel your pain over your situation in Japan. Been there, but over here, it's a tough thing to get through. Helping others is indeed its own reward, but I hope the good karma you've sent into the world wings back your way soon.

 

I was closing up tabs just now and found one you might like: https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/42039/what-is-this-solid-white-glue

If that potting gunk is silastic silicon, check out the removal method at the bottom of the page. [;)] 

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On 7/11/2020 at 7:27 AM, maceffects said:

Another member removed the exterior Aquadag on the CRT leaving it very shiny and silver. Apparently there were no ill effects. I think he used Isopropyl alcohol with rag to remove.  I’ve not tried that but the result did look stunning. 

 

DONT EVER DO THIS! the Aquadag coating is highly important. its there to form a capacitor at the CRT, and filter the high voltage coming off the flyback. Without that, you need a high voltage filter capacitor. Also, this creates a very strong arcing scenario. 

Edited by techknight

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