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SIMM 'bank clips' for broken plastic retention clips

David Cook

Well-known member
Yesterday, I posted about some "for parts" Macintosh II/IIx motherboards I recently repaired.

There was one last repair that I hadn't discussed, as I was waiting for a miniature end mill bit to arrive.

The Macintosh II has two banks of memory, each consisting of four SIMMs that must be fully populated. Bank A is critical, as it must not be left empty. Unfortunately, Apple used plastic retention tabs to hold the memory in place in the slots. The tabs have a habit of breaking if you aren't careful. In my case, apparently a gorilla last removed the SIMMs from Bank A of the motherboard, breaking six of the eight tabs!

Broken-SIMM-slots.jpg

That's right. There is one good tab on one slot, another good tab on another slot, and everything else is broken.

There was no way I was going to desolder 120 leads to replace these slots on this motherboard.

However, since the entire bank must be populated, perhaps I could quickly make a brace that leveraged all four SIMMs being square with each other and the board. That is, rather than being a single SIMM clip, it is a 'bank clip'. As you can see below, it works beautifully.

Straight-With-Bank-Clip.jpg

This is nothing more than a 10 mm x 10 mm plastic bar (kitchen cutting board material) with slits cut in it every 10 mm. The slits are 1.3 mm thick with a 5 mm depth.

Parallel-memory-SIMMs.jpg

The SIMMs really are firmly in place. The SIMM slot itself retains the SIMMs in all directions. The original retaintion tabs only prevented the SIMM from rotating and I guess acted a little like spring clamps to hold the SIMM steady. The slits in the bank clip now perform that duty. The memory SIMMs are almost friction fit in the bank clip's slits, with any slight rotation of any SIMM (due to slit tolerance) causing the mating parts to grab even more.

This is not a complicated design. I imagine it could be 3D printed. (And, perhaps someone else thought of this idea years ago.)

The critical dimensions are:
1. The thickness of the slits. Too wide and the memory SIMMs can independently rotate enough to be loose.
2. The spacing between slits. The bank won't press down if an slit is out of alignment.
3. The squareness of the slits to each other

I used a hobbyist milling machine with a homemade caliper DRO to make the precision cuts.

Milling-machine-with-a-DRO.jpg

Here is a close-up showing that there is nothing more fancy to this than a bunch of slits in a bar of plastic. Aside: I broke two bits before realizing I needed to crank up the RPMs (3000) and make passes of less than 0.5 mm depth of cut with such a tiny end mill.

Machining-SIMM-Bank-Clip-In-Vise.jpg

This was just a 'make do' prototype. I think a neater solution would be to cut slits in a piece of FR-4 circuit board substrate (without copper). It is a tough and rigid material. You'd end up with a thinner brace.

- David
 

zigzagjoe

Well-known member
I did something similar for my SE/30s that have suffered some attrition over the years. I don't seem to have any decent pictures handy... these are the best I've got. I'm not sure if they'd be sturdy enough for the damage yours have suffered - that's impressively bad - but for a clip here and there, or a single simm with both broken, they've worked just fine. Model attached.

Simm Clip.png1707282233538.jpeg1707282222325.jpeg
 

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joshc

Well-known member
These are both far better than the rubber band / hair band solution I’ve used before. Nice
 

jmacz

Well-known member
I used a hobbyist milling machine with a homemade caliper DRO to make the precision cuts.

Those mills are nice, especially since they are small. I have a CNC converted one in my garage. I was eyeballing my SE/30 this evening (one slot has broken clips) and thinking of the same general design. But will probably use my resin printer instead of my mill. Pretty cool though, thanks for sharing!
 

David Cook

Well-known member
I did something similar for my SE/30s that have suffered some attrition over the years. I don't seem to have any decent pictures handy... these are the best I've got. I'm not sure if they'd be sturdy enough for the damage yours have suffered - that's impressively bad - but for a clip here and there, or a single simm with both broken, they've worked just fine. Model attached.

View attachment 69324
Your solution is a lot more elegant, not only in size, but also it seems more tolerant of different memory PCB thicknesses.

Ideally, imagine a design similar to yours, but made out of steel and featuring springy clips. It would fit on top and clip onto the memory IC to act like a heat sink as well as a retainer. Sort of like this but shorter and connected together.

Jonsbo Intros NC-2 Memory Heatsink for RGB Heathens - FunkyKit

Alternatively, I considered a tiny clamp with a set screw just to replace the missing retention tab.
 
I recreated the image with actual tools 😁
Yes, we actually used the SIMM Tool since breaking the customer's clip(s) was a big no-no.
These retaining clips were fragile even when NEW!!!

IMG_1444.png
 

David Cook

Well-known member
I recreated the image with actual tools 😁
Yes, we actually used the SIMM Tool since breaking the customer's clip(s) was a big no-no.
These retaining clips were fragile even when NEW!!!

What a fantastic picture! I'm envious of your Mac tool collection.
 

David Cook

Well-known member
Thanks to an eBay link from @RepairManiac, I was able to purchase one of the SIMM removal tools.

Here are some close-up pictures.

AMP-821987-02.jpgClose-up1.jpgClose-up2.jpgClose-up3.jpg

It is made out of a really high-quality plastic. The grip feels heavy, though. Weighted with a metal insert?

The adjustment slide with the single screw lacks notches, so it isn't very accurate when choosing the memory width of 30, 72, etc. At first, I thought that was to allow you to adjust the width based on the PCB. But, really it should be fixed to the width of the latches on the memory slot, which should be fairly precise. No big deal.

The first step of guiding it onto the top of the memory stick is a little awkward. But after that it slides down and releases the latches like butter! No 'clicking' and no pressure. It is surprisingly amazing.

Maybe I'm being too optimistic, but it seems like this would make broken plastic latches a thing of the past.

- David
 
@David Cook That's awesome and it was NEW too where mine is heavily used. It does feel heavy - weighs 2.5 oz.

I just used it again, for the first time in decades, on a Mac SE/30 and YES it does work like butter once an adjustment was made! Also used it to remove the ROM SIMM too.

It was Apple's answer to technicians complaining of breaking those fragile clips on early Macs. Doesn't look like it was a required tool, but we had one on every Mac bench. Sadly I can only find the one now.

If anyone else is interested, someone *not me* just listed another one on eBay - Search for Amp 821987-02
 

davewongillies

Well-known member
Bummer, I missed it :(
Yeah sorry, that was me

Wow! I would love to get one of those tools to design a replica for 3D printing.
I'd be happy to loan you mine (once I get it) for you to make a replica of it as long as the model gets shared freely
 

obsolete

Well-known member
Yeah sorry, that was me


I'd be happy to loan you mine (once I get it) for you to make a replica of it as long as the model gets shared freely
Absolutely. I will post the model here and Thingiverse, as well as the original design files for anyone who may want to make modifications.

I am confident that this is well within my 3D modeling capabilities, and I should be able to turn it around in a week or less.

I am also happy to send you a deposit equal to or greater than the value of the tool while it's in my possession. Send me a PM when you're ready to loan it out. Thank you!
 
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