PowerBook 5300 Battery disassembly

[uniserver]

I saw the bottle he uses.



He had some of these exact bottles… ones labeled ACE / H20 / FLUX

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Solder-Soldering-Flux-Syringe-Funnel-Empty-Plastic-Bottle-50ml-/120857576741?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1c23ac4525

i didn't ask how he applies the ACE,

I think he just uses that bottle / needle, and runs some in the seam and then starts beating right on the seam all the way around.

i didn't expect him to disclose all his secrets to me (in one sitting)

 

[uniserver]

The glue he uses is clear, He would not tell me what it is… he said its faster then super glue.

It was in the same size bottle, 50ML's Clear with an industrial use only type label.

 

[markyb86]

Was it PVC cement? Toxic as all hell and bonds the shit out of plastic.

 

[Trash80toHP_Mini]

It's probably Acrylic Cement, same MEK base as PVC and ABS or PVC/ABS cements at your local home improvement emporium. Could be straight MEK or MEK with clear ABS dissolved in it, like the way you make or thicken arcylic cement.

MEK is at the nasty end of the Ketone family, acetone, the simplest form of Ketone, is bad for you in many ways, but it's a naturally occurring bodily byproduct, run through the kidneys and out you know where. Just don't breathe it, ingest it, or get it on your eyes and try to keep it off your skin as much as possible in its straight form.

While a chemical weld in plastic sets faster than Cyanoacrylate (crazy glue) does, it doesn't achieve full strength as quickly. It really needs to cure overnight, sometimes more, depending upon the surface area/margin widths fused.

Plexi fabrication 101, same bottle used, pointed water color brushes or glass syringes with real hypodermic needles for fine work. [}] ]'>

 

[techknight]

Wonder if that stuff would work ok for keeping/reinforcing the bond on PB-1XX standoffs?

 

[markyb86]

it should be able to repair it, sort of melts the plastic together. maybe if you add more plastic to support it as well it can be more efficient.

 

[Trash80toHP_Mini]

I think he just uses that bottle / needle, and runs some in the seam and then starts beating right on the seam all the way around.

That stuff follows a seam and wicks underneath and across a new joint when applied by syringe or brush by capillary action, IIRC. That's the way you fuse things together and that'd be the way to introduce acetone into the joint to weaken it.

Beating around the seam of the 190-Kanga series battery seems like a very bad idea to me, given the way the latch assembly looks inside the one I opened up. Application of vacuum pressure a/o clamping forces to the top and bottom sections might be a pretty slick way to get 'em apart without latch borkage. I'll give it a look-see in daylight.

How much does OWC charge for a rebuilt? I'm beginning to agree with fink that re-celling one of these is worth just paying the tariff and dispensing with the gotta DIY attitude. :approve:

 

[Bunsen]

and the cells are ready for recycling tomorrow.

If you have the facility to test and charge those cells individually, you may find a couple of good ones in there to keep in your project box for whatever. It only takes one dead cell in a series pack to render the whole pack unusable.

The battery is built from 12 AA size NiMH cells

Well, that would certainly make a rebuild cheaper than the majority of other Mac batteries, which use less common size cells.

 

[Trash80toHP_Mini]

Bad news: I haven't measured yet, but they look like they may be A cells, not AA, they're a larger in diameter . . .

Good news: they're about as much longer than AA that off the shelf AA rechargeable bats could replace the tabbed cells in the battery . . .

. . . an interchangeable externally rechargeable cell pack from the standard 190-Kanga BatPack might work! }

Edit: what's the voltage of these stock cells? If it's 1.5V we've got a winner:

Confirmed: Three standard CrapShack serial AA battery holder packs (parts from four would be easier) will be NoPro to install sideways in groups of six cells. Three AA cell holders would be perfect, use two as hinged (duct tape! [}] ]'> )barn doors on bottom or top of the casing with the standard double row clip offset and all is very, very

 

[Trash80toHP_Mini]

Sixteen AA cells in the standard orientation is duck soup . . .

. . . with a tad of judicious filing/sanding on the side panels at the bottom of the case 20 AA Cells could will fit in there! 8-o

 

[Bunsen]

You need to replace the same number of cells to get the same pack voltage, or twice as many in a series/parallel double pack. No other combination will work.

Edit: what's the voltage of these stock cells? If it's 1.5V we've got a winner:

The cell voltage is a function of the cell chemistry. All NiMHs are 1.2V

 

[Trash80toHP_Mini]

Dang! No wonder these rechargeables run down so quickly in my first digital camera, I'm surprised they work as well as they do since it's expecting 1.5V alkalines.

The F-36 Motor Drive for the Nikon F loves 'em though, they work great.

Be that as it may, it looks like they'll work like a charm if the Power Manager can be hoodwinked into allowing them to work without charging them. ISTR reading something about being able to use the higher capacity Lithium Ion packs for the 3400/Kanga in the 5300 if you used an external charger.

HRMMM????? :?:

 

[Bunsen]

if the Power Manager can be hoodwinked into allowing them to work without charging them.

You're replacing NiMHs (1.2V) with NiMHs (1.2V). No shenanigans required, as long as you match the original total pack voltage (same number of cells or integer multiple in series/parallel)

AA cells are cheaper than non-standard sizes, and they're smaller than the OEM cells, which leave the rebuilder plenty of wiggle room for connection wiring and fitting the pack back together.

As to disassembly, I would suggest a sharp scalpel or craft blade and many light strokes along the seams, in lieu of any fancier equipment.