techknight
Well-known member
I think its UE8. Did you change it?
-
Updated 2023-07-12: Hello, Guest! Welcome back, and be sure to check out this follow-up post about our outage a week or so ago.
Newbie Macintosh SE/30 Repair need help (sorry)
- Thread starter bertie
- Start date
Bolle
Well-known member
Looks like that's the case. I took the whole Ux8 gang off the board and run them through the tester. All but UE8 passed the tests.
Had to order a new one as it seems I ran out of LS166s. Will post an update if that was the only problem once the new chip is here.
In the meantime I will clean up the board a little bit.
techknight
Well-known member
ive seen UE8 fail dozens of times. thats why I mentioned it in the very beginning. Sure it could have been an open trace but it usually just fails.
I have used the HC in place of the LS and it works fine as well.
I have used the HC in place of the LS and it works fine as well.
So @Bolle repaired my SE/30 board and arrived back yesterday (thanks again!!)
All back together and have a display!! YAY!
? mac icon, which is to be expected as I never knew if an OS was installed or if the SCSI HDD is still 'alive' - so will hunt down some OS7 floppies and see.
One new issue, is that the screen flickers and wobbles, more if I tap on the left side (read this somewhere) so might have a broken solder / bad cap on the analog board?? I even ended up with a single white line down the middle at one point, a harder hit on the side brought the display back.
Thanks again for everyone's help btw!!
All back together and have a display!! YAY!
? mac icon, which is to be expected as I never knew if an OS was installed or if the SCSI HDD is still 'alive' - so will hunt down some OS7 floppies and see.
One new issue, is that the screen flickers and wobbles, more if I tap on the left side (read this somewhere) so might have a broken solder / bad cap on the analog board?? I even ended up with a single white line down the middle at one point, a harder hit on the side brought the display back.
Thanks again for everyone's help btw!!
p.s If anyone wants to see the fab work @Bolle did to my board, his pics are here https://imgur.com/a/tppOs
Bolle
Well-known member
Good to see it made its way back to you.
The wobbly screen can be caused by a weak power supply. If you are getting intermittent issues that can be "fixed" by smacking the case those are most of the time caused by broken solder joints on the connector for the deflection coils.
It tends to make bad contact on one or more pins, which results in increased resistance up to the point it melts away the whole connector if the solder joints don't give up earlier.
Unplug the connector and inspect the pins and check the analog board if the solder joints of the connector are still good. This was already an issue back in the day. I have seen a lot of SE and SE/30 analog boards that had been resoldered in that place, some of them even had noticeably darkened connectors.
The wobbly screen can be caused by a weak power supply. If you are getting intermittent issues that can be "fixed" by smacking the case those are most of the time caused by broken solder joints on the connector for the deflection coils.
It tends to make bad contact on one or more pins, which results in increased resistance up to the point it melts away the whole connector if the solder joints don't give up earlier.
Unplug the connector and inspect the pins and check the analog board if the solder joints of the connector are still good. This was already an issue back in the day. I have seen a lot of SE and SE/30 analog boards that had been resoldered in that place, some of them even had noticeably darkened connectors.
Hi All
Update for the last week or so; re-soldered the P1(?) analog board connector and crimped the connections in the plug and all display issues are sorted. :beige:
Moved on to getting an OS installed.
First USB floppy drive from Amazon had a faulty write protect sensor so wouldn't write floppies :wacko:
Got 2nd USB floppy drive and using images from https://www.classic-computers.org.nz/blog/2011-12-29-disk-from-images-mac.htm I got an os to boot, but wouldn't see the scsi hdd to install on.
Using a PCI SCSI card in a PC, I tried to install via Linux/Basilisk (detailed here: http://www.instructables.com/id/Install-system-70-software-on-a-classic-mac-using/ ) but the scsi drive seemed to 'sleep' and disappear. Read this could be a capacitor issue, so recapped the drive board, no change. Then noticed the drive wasn't spinning up at all on power on, opened drive and spindle was stuck.
However, after all this, the drive still refused to show in OS7 and think it's finally died as the heads no longer move :-(
At least everything else now works. Just need to find a SCSI drive, or invest in a SCSI2SD .....
Update for the last week or so; re-soldered the P1(?) analog board connector and crimped the connections in the plug and all display issues are sorted. :beige:
Moved on to getting an OS installed.
First USB floppy drive from Amazon had a faulty write protect sensor so wouldn't write floppies :wacko:
Got 2nd USB floppy drive and using images from https://www.classic-computers.org.nz/blog/2011-12-29-disk-from-images-mac.htm I got an os to boot, but wouldn't see the scsi hdd to install on.
Using a PCI SCSI card in a PC, I tried to install via Linux/Basilisk (detailed here: http://www.instructables.com/id/Install-system-70-software-on-a-classic-mac-using/ ) but the scsi drive seemed to 'sleep' and disappear. Read this could be a capacitor issue, so recapped the drive board, no change. Then noticed the drive wasn't spinning up at all on power on, opened drive and spindle was stuck.
However, after all this, the drive still refused to show in OS7 and think it's finally died as the heads no longer move :-(
At least everything else now works. Just need to find a SCSI drive, or invest in a SCSI2SD .....
