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Mac LC and DB15 to VGA adapter problem...

bibilit

Well-known member
This is the second generation of the LC.

the first had provision for another floppy drive, or two drives and no hard disk. 

And yes, first units had a different layout for speaker and fan. 

No problem swapping casing around though. 

Capacitors are leaking for sure, can see it from your pictures. 

Wash the board first, to remove goo. 

 

Oberlehrer

Well-known member
Of course, there are also plans to replace the condensers. However, I have to find someone who will do it because I don't feel like soldering in smd.
Hope I can count on your help and advice?
Just out of curiosity: Roughly where in Poland are you located?

 

dragon_x

Well-known member
I don't think I've seen such an LC "in the flesh" myself so far; the ones I've seen always had the (unused) cutout for a second floppy drive. So it seems Apple made a case revision at one point.

I'm only mentioning this since you talked about buying a second case which seems to be constructed different. Make sure that the parts are really compatible.

Other posters will probably know more about the different LC revisions.
The case I found looks like in the attached photos. To be honest, I like mine better, without a second cut to the disk drives. However, I am irritated by numerous scratches and scrapes.

IMG_20200906_172331.jpg

IMG_20200906_172359.jpg

IMG_20200906_172213.jpg

IMG_20200906_172217.jpg

IMG_20200906_172228.jpg

IMG_20200906_172336.jpg

 
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dragon_x

Well-known member
This is the second generation of the LC.

the first had provision for another floppy drive, or two drives and no hard disk. 

And yes, first units had a different layout for speaker and fan. 

No problem swapping casing around though. 

Capacitors are leaking for sure, can see it from your pictures. 

Wash the board first, to remove goo. 
what is the safest method to wash the board?

 

Oberlehrer

Well-known member
unfortunately not. I am locaded near of center of the country...  
Yes, the "Pomeranian" part gave this away somewhat.

Anyway, I've recapped a IIsi, a Performa 475 and an SE/30 so far; so if everything else fails it would at least not mean shipping the machine around the globe...

Another thing: I think without the VRAM upgrade the LC supports only 512 x 384; not sure if the NEC will play nicely with that. I know that the NEC can do 640x480 without a problem.

 

dragon_x

Well-known member
Yes, the "Pomeranian" part gave this away somewhat.

Anyway, I've recapped a IIsi, a Performa 475 and an SE/30 so far; so if everything else fails it would at least not mean shipping the machine around the globe...

Another thing: I think without the VRAM upgrade the LC supports only 512 x 384; not sure if the NEC will play nicely with that. I know that the NEC can do 640x480 without a problem.
from what I read from 256kb the mac supports 640x480 but with a small number of colors. the picture should be on the screen. I'm looking for a 512kb vram sticks but unfortunately I found only 256kb so far.

from LC spec:

"*By default, the Macintosh LC only supports a single display, but a second one can be supported with the addition of an LC PDS video card. With the default 256k of VRAM, the LC can support a single display at 512x384 with 8-bit color or 640x480 with 4-bit color. Upgraded to 512k of VRAM, the LC can support 512x384 at 16-bit color and 640x480 at 8-bit color."

 
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MrFahrenheit

Well-known member
from what I read from 256kb the mac supports 640x480 but with a small number of colors. the picture should be on the screen. I'm looking for a 512kb vram sticks but unfortunately I found only 256kb so far.

from LC spec:

"*By default, the Macintosh LC only supports a single display, but a second one can be supported with the addition of an LC PDS video card. With the default 256k of VRAM, the LC can support a single display at 512x384 with 8-bit color or 640x480 with 4-bit color. Upgraded to 512k of VRAM, the LC can support 512x384 at 16-bit color and 640x480 at 8-bit color."
I actually just answered this same question about the LC and video resolutions elsewhere. 
 

I have an LC with only 256kb and I have a Multisync VGA video adapter that supports 640x480, 832x624, 1024x768 and the LC does indeed boot just fine at 640x480 and supports 16 colors (4bit). 
 

With 512kb of VRAM it supposed 256 colors at 640x480 and technically would support thousands if I had a monitor to display 512x384. 
 

Using the NEC Multisync adapter I note above I’ve not had any issues booting an LC on several different VGA monitors. 
 

Somewhere else someone mentioned the LC requires something like 25hz to boot but I’ve never found that to be the case. Not sure what I’m doing differently. 

Here’s some photos:

https://imgur.com/gallery/pD26RsQ

 
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dragon_x

Well-known member
I actually just answered this same question about the LC and video resolutions elsewhere. 
 

I have an LC with only 256kb and I have a Multisync VGA video adapter that supports 640x480, 832x624, 1024x768 and the LC does indeed boot just fine at 640x480 and supports 16 colors (4bit). 
 

With 512kb of VRAM it supposed 256 colors at 640x480 and technically would support thousands if I had a monitor to display 512x384. 
 

Using the NEC Multisync adapter I note above I’ve not had any issues booting an LC on several different VGA monitors. 
 

Somewhere else someone mentioned the LC requires something like 25hz to boot but I’ve never found that to be the case. Not sure what I’m doing differently. 

Here’s some photos:

https://imgur.com/gallery/pD26RsQ
Thanks :) I am waiting for my NEC EA191M, it should be works fine if i will make working adapter.

 

Daniël

Well-known member
This method will not destroy motherboard? I thought about IPA nad toothbrush or something like that.
IPA is better than tap water and soap. Tap water, especially in areas with harder water, can leave behind mineral deposits that could become corrosive over time. I've washed boards with water and soap a few times, but that's for seriously grimy boards, and they get an IPA bath right after to try and keep the minerals from settling. Distilled water is recommended over tap water in any case, but IPA is best IMO.

 

cheesestraws

Well-known member
This method will not destroy motherboard? I thought about IPA nad toothbrush or something like that.
@Daniël Oosterhuis is talking sense here.  In general: Water and IPA will get off different kinds of dirt; water is polar, IPA is non-polar.  So while normally I just use IPA and a toothbrush, for a seriously grotty board I would personally use both, with some kind of surfactant in the water.  But:

  1. I probably wouldn't use tap water.  Whether you can get away with using tap water probably depends on how hard the water is in your area; I live in a very minerally area, so tap water here leaves tiny crystals on everything.
  2. I would do it in that order, water first and IPA second.  My chemistry is extremely rusty, but if I remember correctly, a mixture of IPA and water that's > 70%ish IPA will evaporate more readily and quickly than just water itself—the IPA actually assists the water to evaporate by some means I cannot now remember.  So that will make the water hang around less on the board.

IMO, these boards are more robust than people think they are, generally.

 

dragon_x

Well-known member
@Daniël Oosterhuis is talking sense here.  In general: Water and IPA will get off different kinds of dirt; water is polar, IPA is non-polar.  So while normally I just use IPA and a toothbrush, for a seriously grotty board I would personally use both, with some kind of surfactant in the water.  But:

  1. I probably wouldn't use tap water.  Whether you can get away with using tap water probably depends on how hard the water is in your area; I live in a very minerally area, so tap water here leaves tiny crystals on everything.
  2. I would do it in that order, water first and IPA second.  My chemistry is extremely rusty, but if I remember correctly, a mixture of IPA and water that's > 70%ish IPA will evaporate more readily and quickly than just water itself—the IPA actually assists the water to evaporate by some means I cannot now remember.  So that will make the water hang around less on the board.

IMO, these boards are more robust than people think they are, generally. 


IPA is better than tap water and soap. Tap water, especially in areas with harder water, can leave behind mineral deposits that could become corrosive over time. I've washed boards with water and soap a few times, but that's for seriously grimy boards, and they get an IPA bath right after to try and keep the minerals from settling. Distilled water is recommended over tap water in any case, but IPA is best IMO.
 thanks guys. I will try to clean board IPA firstly. It there will no results i will use distilled water with soap and IPA again after that. I bought new DB15 and VGA connetors and i will try to make adapter after monitor will come.

 

bibilit

Well-known member
This method will not destroy motherboard? I thought about IPA nad toothbrush or something like that.
So far i have used this method in hundred boards, without any issue.

Of course, you can clean afterwards with IPA, but for a test without removing any bad cap, you can have a try (the main goal is to get rid of any electrolyte shorting chips)

Some have been throwing boards in a dishwasher also.

 

dragon_x

Well-known member
So far i have used this method in hundred boards, without any issue.

Of course, you can clean afterwards with IPA, but for a test without removing any bad cap, you can have a try (the main goal is to get rid of any electrolyte shorting chips)

Some have been throwing boards in a dishwasher also. 
I saw a cleaning method in the motherboards in the dishwasher. scary :)

I will try safely with IPA. If that doesn't help, distilled water with soap and then IPA again.

Second thing, housing makes me wonder. It has a lot of scratches, but this is the second edition of the LC, I can buy the housing but maybe I can clean it up. Another issue is whitening. I have seen different methods.

A silly question, how to make a footer with macs configurations?

 
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bibilit

Well-known member
RetrObrite for whitening.

To be honest, this is a temporary fix, if casing if not too far gone  (more orange than white)  you can leave it alone or use baking soda mixed with water to remove major scratches and clean the surface.

 

dragon_x

Well-known member
RetrObrite for whitening.

To be honest, this is a temporary fix, if casing if not too far gone  (more orange than white)  you can leave it alone or use baking soda mixed with water to remove major scratches and clean the surface. 
there is no good way to make a solid whitening effect?

i will use baking soda, good idea :) thanks

 
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