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Just got a Broken Color Classic! Looking for advice

System6+Vista

Well-known member
Hi folks,

I just picked up a dead Color Classic which is cosmetically in nearly 10/10 condition - no yellowing, still has the qucktime sticker, everything! Unfortunatley, it does not turn on. The man I bought it from (who runs a horse farm!) said that it was working perfectly last year, but that it simply doesn't turn on. This suggests to me that most of the parts probably work. When I got it home, plugged it in and flipped the switch, I heard the familiar sound of a CRT transformer starting, but saw and hear nothing else. When I turned it on subsequent times, no sound at all. I am thinking that possibly the power supply needs to be replaced but I am posting in hopes for good advice about how I should proceed and where would I find the correct power supply?

If it comes to a point where the main board doesn't work and such, I'd be more than willing to turn this computer into an upgrade PPC, G3/G4 etc., but since the case is so flawless, I'd rather have a great regular CC if I can.

thank you!

dave

 

alk

Well-known member
If you aren't aware already, CCs use "pseudo-soft power". You have to flip the switch, then press the power button on the keyboard to turn them on. The switch alone doesn't power up a CC. I recently bought a CC for $25 from a seller who didn't understand this and passed off the CC as dead because the power switch on the back didn't start it. I feel a little guilty about taking advantage of his ignorance, but on the other hand...

If you still can't get it started, and you don't mind gutting it, then you could swap out the guts and install a new LCD or CRT along with a mini's guts or something similar.

Peace,

Drew

 

System6+Vista

Well-known member
I didn't know! I've only been working with the Classics and SEs, and forgot about that function! But, it still doesn't work. I'm definitely hearing the CRT power on to some degree, so does this mean the power supply is working? Can the power supply be partially working? I'd really rather not gut it if there is just one part bad.

 

Dog Cow

Well-known member
No yellowing, eh? Still has a QT sticker! Sounds like an excellent candidate for a Macquarium! Gut that sucker!

 

alk

Well-known member
Wash the logic board and dry well. You are likely to have capacitor failure.
Not everything is the fault of capacitors! There's other solid advice to follow before resorting to a risky procedure like washing a motherboard...

Checking the PRAM battery is a good one.

Peace,

Drew

 

joshc

Well-known member
The Color Classic uses the very common 3.6V half AA, so you can get these cheaply and just put one in. Before doing that, you might want to set your voltage meter to 10DC, then place the probes on either end of the existing battery to measure the voltage - it will most likely be below 3 volts.

 

Apostrophe

Well-known member
No yellowing, eh? Still has a QT sticker! Sounds like an excellent candidate for a Macquarium! Gut that sucker!
Grrrrr....there's no such thing as a broken Mac! }:) No matter what the problem is, it can always be fixed!! The appropriate replacement part can be found!!

This is the 68k Mac LIBERATION Army, meaning that we're supposed to help these Macs, not destroy them!

 

System6+Vista

Well-known member
Yeah, this CC is so beautiful that i'll expend any effort to coax it back to life - it will really be in mint condition at that point. I've actually lost interest in my other compacts with the CC around; it really shows them up aesthetically. My local microcenter apparently has the 3.6v half AAs, so as soon as I get a chance I'm going go get some, and hopefully this baby will be fixed!

Any chance that I could be buying incompatible or damaging PRAM batteries? Anything I need to look out for?

 

equill

Well-known member
Much of what you will find while you resuscitate your CC has been already dealt with here.

Both alkaline and lithium batteries can be found in the CC/P250. The switch-on degaussing is also dealt with in the referenced threads, as is the drill for powering-up an unused (for some time) CC, and the difference between soft-power (active power-control), pseudo-soft power and passive power-control.

viewtopic.php?f=3&t=7569&p

viewtopic.php?f=9&t=5804&p

May you enjoy your acquisition.

de

 

Mac128

Well-known member
No yellowing, eh? Still has a QT sticker! Sounds like an excellent candidate for a Macquarium! Gut that sucker!
Grrrrr....there's no such thing as a broken Mac! }:) ...we're supposed to help these Macs, not destroy them!
Relax Apostrophe. Dog Cow is hardly serious. You have to read what he wrote. He's being ironic.

However, Dog Cow, you should be careful. Someone new to the boards might not understand your subtle humor and actually gut what so obviously describes a collectable in top condition.

 

Apostrophe

Well-known member
Relax Apostrophe. Dog Cow is hardly serious. You have to read what he wrote. He's being ironic.
One of the things about me is that I tend to take things very literally, and so if this was something I took too literally, then I most certainly apologize.

But still, it really seemed to me (and still does) that Dog Cow was serious. So again, if I'm mistaken I apologize, but Dog Cow, Mac 128's right, and whether or not you were joking, gutting Macs is the exact opposite of what these forums, and us, are all about.

-Apostrophe

 

System6+Vista

Well-known member
Terrible news. I opened the CC, took out the PRAM battery. I tested it and the battery was absolutley dead. I put in a new, known-good battery, closed her up and tried to boot. I still hear the CRT sound when I flip the master switch on the back but then, nothing. The lights on my ADBII kebyoard do not light up, and when I press the power button, nothing.

I'd really appreciate any advice.

 

alk

Well-known member
Washing a logic board is an INCREDIBLY RISKY venture. Consider the possibilities: corrosion, electro-static discharge, heat damage, and physical contact damage are possible outcomes! The least likely method to cause damage would be to douse the board in de-ionized, distilled water, but it still carries significant risk. Water may be Ph neutral, but it can still be chemically and electrically active. While it may work well for some people, it should not be advised in a general sense. If the computer in question is one that was produced in large quantities, then there is little to lose by washing a motherboard because replacement parts can be readily found. But in a rarer machine (such as the Color Classic), actual, physical contact with water (or worse, detergent and a dish washing machine!) should only be a choice of absolute last resort.

I would check the logic board for signs of damage. Look for blown fuses, leaking caps, residue left from leaking PRAM batteries, you name it. A thorough visual inspection may reveal signs of physical damage that can be repaired.

Peace,

Drew

 

joshc

Well-known member
Dozens of members of this forum have washed their logicboards, including me, and had excellent results. Obviously care needs to be taken, but I wouldn't be afraid of doing it at all. I would disagree that the logicboards for Color Classics are rare - spare boards can be found on LEM swap and other places. I even have a CC board coming my way.

 

System6+Vista

Well-known member
Thanks for the help. I did try it with two sets of ADB keyboards and mice, both which I know work with my Classic, SE and SE/30. Why are you guys assuming that it is the logic board and not the analog board? The fan doesn't even start up, although I do hear the CRT trying to start - so I am still wondering if it could be the power supply. How easy is it to get the power supply? There is a working Performa 550 on ebay right now that I am considering for CC parts - does this make any sense? I will inspect the logic board soon for any observable issues, and consider washing it.

thank you

Dave

 
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