I got hosed.

[TheNixer]

My favorite G4 of all time is the MDD and I've never owned one, until now. I shopped around looking to replace my G4 GE and found an auction for a dual MDD 1GHz for $360 shipped (the $60 was for shipping). It was coming out of Georgia which enticed me more since I'm in Tennessee. One state over keeps atrocities from parcel carriers down.

So I get a Dell box today (sacrilege, I know) with the G4 inside. Here's what the packing looked like when I opened it...

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3017/2693009613_f63220fce1_b.jpg

Surprisingly enough, the case didn't look bad. It was dirty from where it had been setting on the truck, but that's about it. I was suddenly the beaming new owner of a MDD G4!

But wait. I plugged it in and nothing. I was pissed. I don't know if there is a light on the board or not but if there is, it isn't lit when the machine is on. I immediately suspected the worst. The power supply on these machines are horribly expensive...more than replacing the motherboard.

So, anyone who owns a MDD...I assume there is a light on the board somewhere. I'm trying to figure out for certain before buying anything else if it's the PS or the board.

The seller is patgmac. I haven't heard back from them yet. Auction stated it was a working machine.

 

[MacMan]

Have a look for the CUDA switch, if it has one. Pressing it may help it to recover as occasionally G4s can exhibit this problem which is solved with a simple CUDA reset.

 

[Mike Richardson]

That's a terrible packing job. If that had gone cross country it would just be a pile of dust with some metal shards sticking out of it

 

[LCGuy]

What horrible packaging!

Best of luck getting the Mac up

 

[Temetka]

If the seller does not respond I would file a paypal and e-bay dispute.

 

[Quadraman]

If the seller does not respond I would file a paypal and e-bay dispute.

And shred him mercilessly in feedback.

 

[Bunsen]

Here's what the packing looked like when I opened it...

That is absolutely moronic. Hang on to that photo - you're going to need it.

I once received a rare 1980s analogue synthesiser from over 1000 miles away. It was packed in ONE (count them, 1) layer of box cardboard, made by stuffing two boxes over each end and joining them together with tape. No foam - that was it. Miraculously, when it got here, some of it even worked. > /edit/ and this was from a music store, no less.

Some people just don't have two brain cells to rub together.

 

[Bunsen]

Also - don't spend another cent on fixing that machine. Seller marketed it to you as working, and packed it like that? They are at fault. It's full refund with extreme prejudice time.

Got a link to the auction?

 

[TheNixer]

Here's the auction:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=110272238208&ssPageName=STRK:MEWN:IT&ih=001

I tried the CUDA switch and even alt-ctrl-shift-power button. Nothing. I'm still doing my inspecting of the computer looking for anything out of the ordinary. These power supplies are so outrageously steep I'd hate to buy one and have that not be it. I'm still trying to recoup the cost of the computer.

I hate the words "as-is" in an auction. I generally don't buy because of that but the feedback for this seller - WAS - 100%. I found comfort in that...along with the computer only being hours away.

 

[Bunsen]

Hm. I note that the word "working" subtly fails to make an appearance in the description. Unless this seller is a real stand up guy, you could have done your dough. Approach him politely, explain that you're not happy with the packaging, she no work, may have died in transit - and see what he says.

What's the point in shipping something with insurance if it's sold "as is"?

Get hold of a multimeter and the pinout for the power supply. Pull the PS-motherboard plug, short the +5VSB (standby power signal) to a ground pin and see if the PS starts up. Then check each pin for the correct voltage.

If that tests out all good, sounds like a bad motherboard.

If it's a dead PS, try an ATX conversion rather than an expensive genuine Apple PS. It's a bit of work, but it's not too bad. Then at least you won't be out a huge amount of money (again) if the motherboard is dead as well as the PS.

Meh. You should be able to get something back on the video card, RAM, etc if you part it out.

 

[Bunsen]

But ... before you panic completely ...

Remove the motherboard battery and the mains power. Make sure all the cards, RAM, CPU etc are fully seated. Check for any loose jumpers and cables. Then hold down the CUDA for a full minute. Check the voltage on the battery before putting it back. And see if it springs to life then.

 

[stevep]

Even with out specifically saying "working" any reasonable person would take that description to mean a working and functional machine. "preloaded" software implies it as well. I see it stated insured shipping - I hope that's the case. Good luck, I hope you get this settled in your favor

 

[4seasonphoto]

Although this item was sold "as is", the seller also said it "boots in Mac OS 9...", but obviously, it doesn't boot in that, or anything else. Who knows, maybe that can serve as a loophole for you.

But is there a fuse in there somewhere? I've had instances were fuses simply failed from the gear being moved around. The wire in there gets stressed from years of heating and cooling and all it takes is some bumping around to break it.

 

[Amelia]

If the seller doesn't reply within a week, I'd file a PayPal dispute (there is a time frame that you must do it in). PayPal is very good about getting refunds. When you state the problem to PayPal just be specific but don't type out a novel....heh Make sure to reference things as stated in the auction listing.

If the seller does indeed reply and his/her response is not to your liking-- I'd still file the PayPal dispute.

Good luck!

 

[TheNixer]

Bunsen, thank you so much for your time on this post! The term "working" was so heavily implied in the auction that you are correct - it never actually says it anywhere. I agree, obviously, with stevep. The auction implied everything and delivered me a dead machine. If the machine was dead when it was sent there's no "oops..I forgot to put that." They just wanted to pull one over on me.

But, forget that! I'll see what I can do to work things out financially with them. I'm seriously worried this machine has MULTIPLE problems, making it harder to track down...and more costly.

I've combed over the system visually. One thing troubles me. I don't know what inside the machine could have hit this chip but I've got a cracked solder joint on a chip near where the power supply plugs into the board. One side seems to be completely off, the other has been bent. I just don't see this chip as the end all though. Surely one chip wouldn't keep the system from turning on at all.

BTW - The moral support has been nice. I'm trying not to wig out.

 

[Byrd]

TheNixer: please post pics of the damage - might give us a better idea on what's at fault here (and if repairable).

JB

 

[equill]

But ... before you panic completely ...

There is one small demur from Bunsen's otherwise excellent suggestion to reset the MLB, which should be done before anything else when the Mac fails to power-up. With the exception of the PCI Graphics, the G4 towers have a PMU, which is not the same as a Cuda. The PMU button must not be pressed more than once, and it must not be pressed for more than a second. Doing it the correct way initiates a sequence of events, by contrast with a Cuda switch which beavers away for as long as the switch is held in.

The PMU is a computer-within-the-computer, with its own memory, software, firmware, I/O, two crystals and a CPU. It is also extremely sensitive to static electricity. If the PMU is not enabled to function correctly, ie it is crashed by more than one press or a bouncing switch (which it interprets as a second press of the switch), it will go into hysterics, one result of which is to flatten your battery in 24-48hr, and another is to need a complete reset of the MLB again.

And further, when you replace the battery (which must show between 3.3 and 3.7V) after an MLB reset, you must wait at least 10sec before you press the PMU switch.

de

 

[TheNixer]

Okay, first off here's a quick video of the chip in question:




Secondly, I didn't stand on the PMU button but it was held for longer than a second. I'm not exactly sure how to completely reset the main logic board but I think I'll start a list of things I need to do to this computer.

I don't have a voltmeter but my best friend does and I'm going to run the computer up to him to test the power supply and have a look a the chip. I'll start there and continue down the list before I start forking out more cash to get this computer running again.

No response from the seller as of yet.

 

[equill]

MLB resetting involves no more than grounding the Mac, removing mains power and removing the battery, and allowing it to stand thus for 10min. or more. All is forgotten unless it is in ROM, somewhere.

The mains cable can be used for the grounding if the GPO (power-point, wall socket) is switchable to remove AC from the cable, and grounded separately from the neutral line.

de