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Design68: A 65% replacement keyboard using AppleDesign controllers

CC_333

Well-known member
I've been following this with some interest, but I'm not clear on one thing:

Is ANSI the layout used in the US?

If so, I think I have an ADK somewhere which is soo disgustingly filthy that I don't think it's worth the effort to clean. I think it would be worthwhile to harvest its controller IC for something like this, though.

But I'm in no hurry, as I have a nice AEK II that I'm using on my daily driver via a Drakware adapter (it's not even too badly yellowed, although it now has some wear and tear from my fairly undemanding usage that it didn't have when I first got it).

c
 

Daniël

Well-known member
Is ANSI the layout used in the US?

Given ANSI is an acronym for American National Standards Institute, I'd think so ;-)
Joking aside, yes, this is the layout with the "straight" enter/return key.

ISO generally uses the "upside-down L" enter/return key, which also causes some differences in the layout around this key.
So ANSI would be best if that's what you're used to.

Do make sure the keycap set you get is also ANSI, and skip the ISO modification of the keyboard plate, it shouldn't be necessary.
 

wottle

Well-known member
@demik , Can you provide details in the GitHub repo on the connections for the ADB wires. The wires labeled are GVAPE. In one of your pictures, it's not quite clear which color wire from and ADB cable goes where, but it appears maybe

G -green
V - red
A - blue
P - white
E - black

Is that correct if re-using the ADB cable from the donor Apple keyboard?
 

demik

Well-known member
Is that correct if re-using the ADB cable from the donor Apple keyboard?

If you are reusing the old cable, the colours are indeed as follow:

Design68_wire_order.jpeg


I'm not 100% sure all cables are the same for everyone, so the letters stand for :
- G = ground (green)
- V = VCC / +5V (red)
- A = ADB (blue)
- P = Power Trickle (white)
- E = Earth / Shield (thick black)
 

jmacz

Well-known member
I assume this chip won't work?

IMG_6608.jpg

Looks like my second ADK has a completely different board/chip.
 

obsolete

Well-known member
I finally found a 3-screw donor keyboard! It seems that the 4-screw/8-screw versions are a lot more common, at least in the USA.
 

demik

Well-known member
There is a way to tell without opening: ALPS ones do have 3 or 6 screw in the back, NMB ones do have 4 or 8 screws
 

jmacz

Well-known member
Just posting this to help people find the right keyboard that has the proper 341-0001 chip in it that's required.

s-l1600.jpg

At least from looking at various pictures, the ADK you want has 3 or 6 screws (previously mentioned) but also has a couple other subtle differences. The one you want has the corner screw holes at the same level as the keyboard feet. Also the one you want has the bar code partially in the indented section of the bottom and centered, whereas the bad one (ie. wrong chip) has the bar code lower down and off center.

I'm not 100% on this but I think it was previously mentioned that the one we're looking for has 3 or 6 screws, and looking at all the listings on eBay, the 3/6 screw ones also seem to have the traits mentioned above.
 

jmacz

Well-known member
Thought it would be cool to post pictures of keyboards people have built. Here's mine:

IMG_6490.JPG

Also working on building a second now.
 

demik

Well-known member
@jmacz Thanks. Build on jmacz journey here.

What keycap did you use ? I remember someone else mentioning them but can't put a name on them
 

jmacz

Well-known member
Finished my second one.. black semi-transparent case with white keycaps.

Cut outs for the cable and pass through ADB port:

IMG_6662.JPG IMG_6663.JPG

Fully assembled:

IMG_6666.JPG

and with my HHKB (top), first Design68 (middle), and the latest one (bottom):

IMG_6665.JPG
 

demik

Well-known member
Damn you build a whole team ! The black is very nice indeed

How did you do these corded cables ? S-Video ?
 
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