Bondi Blue CD hints?

[Cam]

Hi!
I picked up an imac Bondi Blue this past week, and managed to get everything restored and working (dead hard drive replaced with n SSD, OS loaded), with the exception of the CD-ROM drive. It's D-E-D dead.

The drive doesn't spin up, or eject when the button is pushed. Does anyone have any advice on fixing it?
I see a couple of capacitors I may replace and see if that makes any difference.

Thanks,
Cam

Edit: I should have mentioned it's a tray loading drive, not slot loading.

 

[Mikeyy00]

Make sure everything is seated properly. Any chance a disc is stuck? (Should be able to put a paper clip in the front).

Worse case. They’re actually not that bad to replace IMO. (vs. The slot load models). Just fleabay a PC laptop CDRom (or CDRW or even a DVD) IDE drive. Key is IDE.

The bezel may not fit if it’s a different brand from your OG. But some glue can be your friend here if needed.

 

[Cam]

Make sure everything is seated properly. Any chance a disc is stuck? (Should be able to put a paper clip in the front).

Worse case. They’re actually not that bad to replace IMO. (vs. The slot load models). Just fleabay a PC laptop CDRom (or CDRW or even a DVD) IDE drive. Key is IDE.

The bezel may not fit if it’s a different brand from your OG. But some glue can be your friend here if needed.

I considered another kind of CD drive, and just transferring the bezel over, but the bezel appears to be glued on? I guess worst case (if recapping doesn't work) is transplanting the drawer from the broken drive to a working drive, and hope the problem is in the pc board.

 

[Cam]

OK, just to complete the documentation on this in case someone if the far future is looking at a similar problem.

I recapped the LB (even though the machine works) because . . . well capacitors that old are begging to be replaced. Once that was done, the CD-ROM came back to life!?

I'm speculating that one of the caps that got replaced was part of the power circuit that fed the CD-ROM, and replacing it brought the power rail back in line??? At least that's my best guess. I could be wrong, and more than willing to 'no you're wrong' feedback on this.

The last problem (not really a show stopper at this point) is a high pitched whine that fades away 20 seconds or so after being turned on. I hope it's not the flyback.

C

 

[68kPlus]

I have the same issue with my SE - high pitched whine. I recapped the PSU and it didn't stop (but the voltage rails become more stable).
I heard from some people it's the video circuitry, so I'll be recapping it in the new year.
If that solves the problem I'll be sure to let you know!

 

[Phipli]

I have the same issue with my SE - high pitched whine. I recapped the PSU and it didn't stop (but the voltage rails become more stable).
I heard from some people it's the video circuitry, so I'll be recapping it in the new year.
If that solves the problem I'll be sure to let you know!

Daft question... Are you under 25? Because all CRTs let off a high pitched whine that you can only hear when you're young. Until my mid 20s I could hear if a TV was on in the next room even if it was muted, just by the high pitched noise they make.

 

[68kPlus]

Daft question... Are you under 25? Because all CRTs let off a high pitched whine that you can only hear when you're young. Until my mid 20s I could hear if a TV was on in the next room even if it was muted, just by the high pitched noise they make.

I am actually (in fact I turn 17 tomorrow - surprise surprise, I'm actually young!).
I figured out the frequency was somewhere around 18,000Hz, but with my SE it does go away after a little while.
I have a little Samsung TV that has the high pitched sound and it's really loud and annoying, so I don't use it often.
Guess I just have good hearing?