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  2. Paralel

    First print on my SE

    30 years ago: Valentine's Card printed on Mac/Imagewriter II: "You cheap, lazy bastard!" Now: Valentine's Card printer on Mac/Imagewriter II: "Oh my god! A vintage Valentine's day card! I love it!!" **Results may vary based on loved one, love of computers, vintage hardware, and nature of your relationship with them. No warranties given or implied.
  3. Fabulous! Thank you!
  4. Today
  5. joethezombie

    Plastic fasteners on Classic analog board sleeve

    They are called nylon snap rivets. Google that term, and you'll find a ton of different sizes. I can't remember the exact size the compact Macs use.
  6. UnaClocker

    First print on my SE

    I picked up this SE about 2 months ago now. Really good condition, works a treat. Even came with an external hard drive. I picked it up locally, came in it's original box even. Well one of the things I really wanted to be able to do with it was to be able to print the cards and banners I used to make when I was a kid. So I found an Image Writer II on eBay for a song and a dance, and it too came in it's original box! I dare say it's in even better condition than the computer. Got the ribbon and paper and the first thing I printed in PrintShop was a valentine's card for my girlfriend.
  7. sjbaird

    128k mouse issues after RAM replacement

    SOLVED! Embarrassing, but this was just a software issue. I was using System software 4, and 128k Macs can only handle up to System software 3.2. My dumb mistake. Works great now.
  8. Thank you! That being said, double-sided foam tape is comparatively easy to come by, though hardly as elegant!
  9. LaPorta

    Plastic fasteners on Classic analog board sleeve

    I have a direct replacement for the foam if you need. I just need the rivets!
  10. Oh that's what it was, nevermind! Still, would be nice to have the fasteners.
  11. Paralel

    Powerbook 540c won't startup

    I have one for my Garmin.
  12. LaPorta

    Plastic fasteners on Classic analog board sleeve

    That's interesting...every Plus I've seen uses the double sided foam tape. That I've found a replacement for.
  13. My old college era MacPlus (orignally a 512 but upgraded to a MacPlus) has had blank screen since the 90's. Finally pulled it out of the closet when I was junking a bunch of stuff and figured I'd give it a shot. Re-soldered J4 and J1, and bingo, I've got a screen. The old ProAPP 20S HD works too and boots. Spent an hour or so of playing around with it, turned it off and went to dinner. Sadly, when I went to boot up the Mac later tonight, I have what looks like a classic flyback issue. I was seeing some wavy lines on the edges prior to this, and was preparing to resolder the flyback, but now I've got this (with a burning electronics smell): Everything on the board looks ok, no obvious signs of burning or anything. This is the flyback, hard to tell if it's bad: I haven't replaced any caps on the board at this stage (they all look to be ok).
  14. I would like to know as well, my plus doesn't have them, rather its analogue board is held on with welded plastic, if I recall correctly.
  15. I just finished recapping 3 Mac Classic logic boards. When starting them up, two displayed horizontal lines on boot (not garbled, just perfect ~4 pixel wide horizontal lines). When taking them back to the garage to clean them up I noticed that the ROM on the board I had just powered up felt warm. That prompted me to realize I made a silly mistake: I didn't notice there was an extra row of pins on the side of the ROM socket and for two of the boards I had the ROM in the wrong pins. I fixed the issue and tried to boot the boards. This time 2 of the three worked and the last one still had the same lines. By swapping ROMs across the boards and I was able to validate that one of the ROM chips itself was causing the problem. I'm not sure if the chip was ruined when it was plugged in to the wrong set of pins on the ROM socket, but I'm thinking probably not given that the other ROM chip is still working fine. I'm posting this as I've read a number of posts regarding these horizontal lines and none of them concluded on the issue. TL;DR: If your Macintosh Classic boots up with horizontal lines/bars either your ROM chip is defective or one of the traces going to the ROM socket is defective.
  16. Hi everyone, You know those little black plastic rivet-type deals that hold on the Classic-series analog board outside white plastic sleeve? I want to know what they are and how to get some more for when I re-cap these things so I can re-attach the sleeve with the original fasteners.
  17. Well, it appears that it also supports 128MB modules! Sweet! I also have confirmation that the DOS card definitely does NOT support my 64MB stick. It showed up as a 16MB module. 32MB works fine. Kinda weird but whatever.
  18. Well, the inverter after Ive looked into it some more only controls backlight and contrast. So thats out. That leaves the interconnect board, LCD, maybe cable (Even though its been tested?. At this point I've tried reconnecting the video cable (both ends) multiple times, pressed around the border of the LCD to see if there's a bad connection in it, smacked the screen to check for a loose connection. Nothing has done anything. The screen is exactly split in half. Surely someone can pinpoint what to check next? I have a known good 160 I can swap the display cable from but I'd hate to have to dismantle my third Powerbook within 24 hours.
  19. Reseated LCD cable on the inverter AND LCD itself. Nothing. Edit: Is a 160 inverter compatible with a 140? Maybe I should swap them out and see what happens. I really dont think its the ribbon cable since I tested for continuity. LCD doesnt appear to be the culprit either just from looking at it. After looking at Apples service manual. Apple seems to think the LCD or interconnect board. No mention of the inverter. Also mentions a display cable shim, but this cable seems to already have one, plus its a tight fit...? Any ideas? Edit again: Inverter on a 160 has different outputs. Interconnect board looks different too.
  20. Iesca

    Powerbook 540c won't startup

    While I still plan on recapping the power supply, I just found on ebay the fabled Lind PB-5 car adaptor for Powerbook 500s! Does anybody have any recommendations for a good AC to DC power converter for using car appliances indoors? US wall plugs, please!
  21. Gorgonops

    Cheap IDE on scsi bus solution?

    In addition to that it would also depend on the two respective drives having exactly the same (or at least close enough) low-level formats and compatible embedded servo information. I know places like Drivesavers sometimes do board swaps for low-level recoveries, but so far as I know they do them between exactly the same models... I mean, sure, I guess if you have, say, Quantum Fireball 540T and its SCSI twin just lying around and you don't mind losing both of them I'd love to hear what happens. But ultimately this isn't a very scalable solution. (While the IDE versions of various drives that have SCSI twins may well of sold in larger numbers back in the day they're not going to be much easier to find today, and there's no reason to think their mechanisms were any more reliable.)
  22. I never bothered with mine because on top of the PCI bandwidth limitations (which are extremely harsh on the B&W, the "northbridge/southbridge" pipe on that machine is just a 66mhz 32 bit PCI bus; the video slot alone can theoretically completely saturate it) my B&W's "Upgraded" (sidegraded?) video card is a Radeon 7000. Sure, it's Quartz Extreme compliant in that it supports arbitrary-sized textures, but, well, in OpenGL it squeaks out being about, I dunno, 60% faster than the original Rage 128 on a good day? Definitely nothing to write home about. For a while I *was* holding onto a dual-port FX5200 PCI I scavenged out of an old Dell Precision (it'd been set up to drive four monitors) with thoughts of trying the Core Image experiment, but I never got around to it. The B&W (well, Yikes, effectively, since I have a G4 ZIF) doesn't run the shipping version of Leopard anyway, and while Core Image did *exist* in Tiger it wasn't really used much.
  23. Yes. The Apple branding isn't the important part here. At all. It would behave just like the one you already tried, technically bootable but the code which drives the "C held down" function has no idea to look for it where it is.
  24. Hi. I replaced 5 RAM chips on my original 128k motherboard. I successfully desoldered the faulty chips, soldered in new ones, and no more sad Mac! It now boots from a floppy and gets to the desktop. However, moving the mouse does NOT move the cursor on the screen. I tried 2 different mice, both of which work fine on my Mac Plus. The mouse button DOES work- I can click and see the Apple menu (because the cursor starts there), but can’t get the cursor to move. I don’t even know where to begin to look to try to repair this. Anybody have any ideas? Again- it’s not the mouse, but something in the computer. Thanks!
  25. Better photo. My phone keeps putting the photo out of focus as you can see above. Reseated the ribbon cable to LCD. No change. Tried shaking the thing a little and flexing the cable. No change. Caps all appear to be correct polarity. Really hope this isnt a bad screen... Speaker still clicks every now and then. Adjusting contrast and brightness dont do anything with relation of the lines. Edit: Apparently after some research the ghosting is normal for a pasive matrix, and mine looks far better than some. Doesnt bother me, just was wondering. But those darn lines do! Edit Edit: Could it be the inverter? Got that recapped though. Would an inverter do this?
  26. Yesterday
  27. Mission success in transplanting a 160 display cable to my 140! Screen is super duper bright and contrast and brightness work... well... like new! Screen is crisp and clean for the most part. But of course, like always, theres an issue. The bottom half of the screen has lines on it, but ONLY the bottom half! Bad screen, logic board, cable...? Cable has good continuity so I would hope its not that. Hope this is a known and easy fix? Also some ghosting on the top left. Looks like what would happen on an unrecapped LCD. ALL CAPS REPLACED on LCD and inverter (You can tell. SUPER bright screen! ). RECAPPED PSU! Also I noticed that after not using the speaker for a minute, and if I go to the sound control panel and change the volume, theres a loud click right before it plays the sound. I also noticed just messing around in the OS there is a click once in a while. ??? Is it just warming up after decades of rest? No battery installed.
  28. You have given me many things to think about and try Gorgonops. Thank you. What I was thinking about, but did not clearly say, was that I wondered if a Apple branded SATA CD/DVD burner optical drive was around that would drop into my B&W, plug into my SATA card and work? Are you saying that even if it were a Apple branded SATA optical drive, the PCI SATA card would probably not support it? Thanks mraroid
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