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Questions about 3D printing a reset/interrupt switch (AKA programmers button) for a Mac SE

I had a local place build 5 of them.

There is a chance they may have made some error, but from what I have they're all too big. Because 3D printing produces a lot of ridges that have to be sanded smooth, and the part is difficult to make smooth on the many sides and pockets it has, it's not ready to use out of the box.

It's pretty accurate to the real thing, but I think this is more of a 1:1 clone not a substitute. It's like when you design a product to be made out of aluminium, and then swap to a polymer or composite material, you end up having to completely redesign it because the material strength and fatigue limits are different.
 
I've used the first model and it fits nicely. No issues/finishing required. Definitely recommend face-down printing, there's not another orientation that really works on these.

The actuators aren't the strongest things ever when made with a conventional printer, these would be a good candidate for printing in resin. I had JLC3D do a few and they worked well (but the color is a problem then).
 
IMG_0016.JPG

I don't know enough about 3D printing to know what the problem is. Not sure if they used the wrong material, wrong method, or something else. Color is good, because that means I'm more likely to spot it when it has to come off for the monthly cleaning of the ROM SIMM for some weird reason, otherwise, eh I'm not to enthused with the results. I know that 3D printing has artifacts, that's to be expected, but I don't know if it was a real 3D printer or some mediocre POS.
 
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I don't know enough about 3D printing to know what the problem is. Not sure if they used the wrong material, wrong method, or something else. Color is good, because that means I'm more likely to spot it when it has to come off for the monthly cleaning of the ROM SIMM for some weird reason, otherwise, eh I'm not to enthused with the results. I know that 3D printing has artifacts, that's to be expected, but I don't know if it was a real 3D printer or some mediocre POS.
Sorry, I misspoke: The SECOND model ( https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4324446 ) is the good one that I've used. That first one appears to have changed the design and would probably be why it doesn't fit as those actuators and tabs look much thicker.

Also, that print quality is pretty miserable for it having been a paid-for job...
 
Oh, that might explain it. I used the first one. And got 5 of them. At 10$ a piece. 😐
I'm sorry, but you were fleeced. Badly. :|

That's 50 cents of filament, one minute to review and prep the print, 1 hour and 15 minutes on a fast printer or 3 hours on a slow printer. For 5. My assumption is they didn't offer you a choice of filament and used whatever they had loaded at the time. At a quick glance there's bad ringing in both axis (causes the rough sides of the print and ripples) and poor adhesion to the bed (leading to those tangles), all of which points towards mediocre printer maintenance.... you should name and shame those fools.
 
Well I already have it, so what to do? Acetone? It'll harm the color, but that doesn't matter on the inside.

I'm sure they asked about the filament, but I have no idea of what filament is good for what (although, you could argue I could have searched, but then I can counter with SEO and AI bull%#)! we have that makes accurate info...harder to find) or anything of that matter.

They're a local place, I don't know of anybody who does that locally, but I don't think I have a reason to go back either...
 
Well I already have it, so what to do? Acetone? It'll harm the color, but that doesn't matter on the inside.

I'm sure they asked about the filament, but I have no idea of what filament is good for what (although, you could argue I could have searched, but then I can counter with SEO and AI bull%#)! we have that makes accurate info...harder to find) or anything of that matter.

They're a local place, I don't know of anybody who does that locally, but I don't think I have a reason to go back either...

I'd hoped they'd at least ask what color you wanted it in.

Acetone smoothing will only work with ABS, but odds are they just printed them in basic PLA as it is by far and away the most common type of plastic used in 3D printing. Your best bet is sanding until it works.
 
I would concur with button face down, legs up.

I have had better luck with resin printing these. It comes out cleaner and since I paint, it looks pretty good afterwards.
 
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