I don't know if you can actually tell that they're leaking in these photos. I am not much of a photographer.
I was preparing to put my four pre-SE compacts (512K X 2, Plus X 2) in the attic and realized that I had a pair of SE/30s up there from which I couldn't remember if I had pulled the batteries. These are different from the two I mentioned a while back.
So up into the attic. Sure enough, they both have batteries installed. Happily, neither of them has leaked. One battery had an '88 date code. But looking at the logic board, the dust was clearly sticking to the boards more around the caps, indicating sticky leakage. One of boards has clear corrosion of the pins and solder in the vicinity of the caps. It's amazing to me how far this stuff apparently migrates.
So I pulled all the caps and cleaned the boards. These pics are just from before pulled the caps and cleaned the boards. It was too late and I was too wiped afterwards to take more pictures. I didn't lift any pads though. Patience. Lots of patience and even more solder flux.
If you look closely, you can see evidence of corrosion on the solder on the pads for the caps. The later pictures show the dirtier board which also has a good bit of pin corrosion.
Speaking of solder flux, my experience last night was that removing the caps often used two or three times as much flux as I expected. I wonder if the dust on the board was somehow using up the flux when I heated it. Anyway, point being, if it's taking a long time for a cap to come loose. Consider stopping, remove the soldering pencils, and liberally apply more flux to the cap terminals.
And never, never grind the pencil tip into the pads or cap trying to make it heat faster. I know I have this impulse, but it's the quickest way to a torn or lifted pad. If it's not heating, pressing down harder is not the answer. There's something else going on. Re-tin your solder pencil tip. Apply more flux. Sometimes applying fresh solder to the part being removed will actually make it come off more easily. But don't grind.
Note on the picture below and following, how there seems to be thicker dust in the vicinity of the caps. This is from the dust getting stuck in the sticky cap leakage.
I was preparing to put my four pre-SE compacts (512K X 2, Plus X 2) in the attic and realized that I had a pair of SE/30s up there from which I couldn't remember if I had pulled the batteries. These are different from the two I mentioned a while back.
So up into the attic. Sure enough, they both have batteries installed. Happily, neither of them has leaked. One battery had an '88 date code. But looking at the logic board, the dust was clearly sticking to the boards more around the caps, indicating sticky leakage. One of boards has clear corrosion of the pins and solder in the vicinity of the caps. It's amazing to me how far this stuff apparently migrates.
So I pulled all the caps and cleaned the boards. These pics are just from before pulled the caps and cleaned the boards. It was too late and I was too wiped afterwards to take more pictures. I didn't lift any pads though. Patience. Lots of patience and even more solder flux.
If you look closely, you can see evidence of corrosion on the solder on the pads for the caps. The later pictures show the dirtier board which also has a good bit of pin corrosion.
Speaking of solder flux, my experience last night was that removing the caps often used two or three times as much flux as I expected. I wonder if the dust on the board was somehow using up the flux when I heated it. Anyway, point being, if it's taking a long time for a cap to come loose. Consider stopping, remove the soldering pencils, and liberally apply more flux to the cap terminals.
And never, never grind the pencil tip into the pads or cap trying to make it heat faster. I know I have this impulse, but it's the quickest way to a torn or lifted pad. If it's not heating, pressing down harder is not the answer. There's something else going on. Re-tin your solder pencil tip. Apply more flux. Sometimes applying fresh solder to the part being removed will actually make it come off more easily. But don't grind.
Note on the picture below and following, how there seems to be thicker dust in the vicinity of the caps. This is from the dust getting stuck in the sticky cap leakage.


