HELP - 512K won't power up

[s_pupp]

If you have a 3D printer, you can print out plastic adjustment screwdriver bits (Link)
Just don't use an electrically conductive filament, of course.

 

[68kPlus]

Are you referring to my iMac flyback thread? @JC8080

 

[JC8080]

Are you referring to my iMac flyback thread? @JC8080

No, referring to post #23 on the prior page. Just general advice to always use plastic screwdrivers when making CRT/analog board adjustments with the machine running, not machine specific.

 

[obsolete]

If you have a 3D printer, you can print out plastic adjustment screwdriver bits (Link)
Just don't use an electrically conductive filament, of course.

I tried these a while ago, and it's a tough print with an FDM machine. You either need a really small nozzle, really good cooling, or both. I gave up and bought some.

 

[68kPlus]

No, referring to post #23 on the prior page. Just general advice to always use plastic screwdrivers when making CRT/analog board adjustments with the machine running, not machine specific.

Oh right. Yeah I do that with all Macs I've worked on (CRT-wise), and that works great.

 

[s_pupp]

I tried these a while ago, and it's a tough print with an FDM machine. You either need a really small nozzle, really good cooling, or both. I gave up and bought some.

Good points. I used a Creality K1 with a narrow 0.2mm nozzle, and whatever layer height corresponds to “high quality” — 0.08mm I believe. This machine has good cooling abilities. At these settings, I was able to print nylon tools that work with my SE/30’s choke and pots.