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My custom bezel for my Color Classic 575
- Thread starter olePigeon
- Start date
Trash80toHP_Mini
NIGHT STALKER
Looks very good, have you got "before" piccies?
Which part do you need to mitre?
:?:
Which part do you need to mitre?
:?:
Trash80toHP_Mini
NIGHT STALKER
There's a time for this and a time for that . . . ISTR hearing/reading that somewhere . . . :
. . . and all good things take time! The time for de-yellowing definitely comes AFTER finishing up all the external case hackage! Give a comrade a break, already! [
] ]'>Nice system, BTW! I found my first ZFP HDD the other day, now I'll probably have to re-arrange my display/workstation to showcase it after seeing your setup!
BAH, HUMBUG! }
)
Trash80toHP_Mini
NIGHT STALKER
When I quoted you, I noticed a couple of leftover words from a different version of the wording about the dremeling that threw the sentence out of kilter, once deleted, it reads just fine. Don't worry about it, I'll delete these last couple of posts & my p.s. to you. [:?: I'm not sure what you mean.I fixed your .txt editing boo boo for you! [
] ]'>______________________________________________________________
Back again, all that remains is this post, just lemme know here, or by PM, that you got the message. Then this post, and your reply here, will disappear automa . . . erm . . . mod-magically? [
] ]'>jt
olePigeon
Well-known member
No before pictures, sorry. The LC 575 bezel is pretty different than that of the Color Classic. The lower half looks similar to the CC bezel, but it has a large upper half that protrudes up and to the sides. I actually found out that the lower half section is about 1/8" wider than the CC bezels as well, so I had to sand it down and round the corners. Here's someone else's picture of the rear of the LC 575, you can get an idea of how big it was before:
I don't know if you can tell from the picture on the back side of the bezel, but the edge is mitered about a 1/8". The whole bezel should be beveled, but since I cut off and used only the bottom half of the LC 575 bezel, it's not mitered around the top half so it doesn't quite fit when placed in.
````|____ <-- The edge of the bezel should look something like that.
Trash80toHP_Mini
NIGHT STALKER
I think you mean "rabbet" the edge . . .No before pictures, sorry. The LC 575 bezel is pretty different than that of the Color Classic. The lower half looks similar to the CC bezel, but it has a large upper half that protrudes up and to the sides . . .
I don't know if you can tell from the picture on the back side of the bezel, but the edge is mitered about a 1/8". The whole bezel should be beveled, but since I cut off and used only the bottom half of the LC 575 bezel, it's not mitered around the top half so it doesn't quite fit when placed in.
````|____ <-- The edge of the bezel should look something like that.
. . . as that's the name for the joint you've done in ASCII art (nice job, btw [
] ]'> if I'm interpreting it correctly.http://woodworking.about.com/od/joinery/p/Rabbets.htm
I think the two paleolithic 15" AIOs I've been toying around with must be 575s, can't remember offhand, looks kinda like a Big@$$ StereoCC w/wings?
Have you got any adapters to mount your dremel to a board for a micro-router-table setup?
I'll start a "Hacks" thread w/pictures of what I did and how I home-brewed a router table to rabbet some plastics the way you appear to need to do. Just gotta right-(down)-size some 10 MP piccies of the two projects.
When I try to upload/downsize on ImageShack I ge . . . :simasimac:
Anybody know of a light-weight GraphicConverter type image editor for ubuntu on a 2GB RAM upgraded NetBook?
Methinks the GIMP's still a tad out of reach for my Mini. :
olePigeon
Well-known member
Yes, that's it. But don't you use a miter to follow the edge and cut it? Maybe I was thinking of a router. Crap. Shows how much I know about what I'm doing. :lol:I think you mean "rabbet" the edge . . .
. . . as that's the name for the joint you've done in ASCII art (nice job, btw [
Yeah, the 550, 575, and 580. They look like a Color Classic on steroids.
Unfortunately I live in an apartment. My options are pretty limited. I'd like to do that. Like I said, I don't know what I'm doing, but I bought a Dremel XPR because it was the only one on sale. Couple days ago I found out that my XPR is the only Dremel that you can put an adapter on and turn it into a saw. 8-o I lucked out, this thing is crazy versatile. I bet there's a router setup for it, too. I'll probably go to he hardware store and take a look, maybe cash in on some of the holiday deals going on.
Thanks. Although I think I might just use a large metal ruler and the drum sander bit. I'm confident I can rabbet the edge decently.
Give GQView a try.
Trash80toHP_Mini
NIGHT STALKER
Not sure what you mean by a mitre . . . a mitre gauge? Google up and post a piccie and we'll be in the same page!
Learning new tricks it half the fun, never denigrate your efforts if you're making an honest effort. Skills take time, patience and practice to develop . . . and lots of practice pieces to chew up!
Sounds more like a way to sand your fingertips off to me . . .
check out:
http://www.amazon.com/Dremel-220-01-Rotary-Tool-Station/dp/B00068P48O/ref=pd_bxgy_hi_text_c
Looks like you could do a small scale overhead pin-router table with that thing, but you only need to rig up a router table to get GREAT results.
That's the ONLY thing that ever tempted me to enter Dremel's little world (product niche) and make a purchase, but I've got an industrial router and somebody gave me a nice Craftsman Router. I've got pneumatic die grinders and most of the air tools known to man that'll run off a job site compressor. There are some that require too many CFM a/o too high a pressure, so my collection isn't as extensive as I'd like, but reading labels is one sure way for me to curb the ole toy buying addictions.
BTW, I live in a two bedroom apartment too . . . more like a 3 1/2 room design studio w/half of a really nice kitchen. [
] ]'>
Trash80toHP_Mini
NIGHT STALKER
I just tested my brand new Stanley RB5 and I love it!
That pic is a little misleading, it shows blades (called irons on a real plane, but these are tiny & replaceable/disposable, so nopro as long as they're recyclable! [] ]'> ) in both the bullnose and standard center position for a block plane. I guess they're hawking it as a block plane to hit the broadest market. Not too many folks know or care about planes, much less rabbeting or bullnose planes, even some "woodworkers" would much rather use powered routers and sanders to make a lot of noise & dust instead of making curlique shavings while enjoying the gentle hiss of a nicely tuned plane doin' its thing.
Anyway, as the name implies, it's a rabbeting plane with bullnose capability (to make a stopped rabbet or plane up to a ledge) and a decent, very lightweight, bang around block plane at an awesome price point for this kind of versatility!
http://www.stanleytools.com/default.asp?CATEGORY=PLANES&TYPE=PRODUCT&PARTNUMBER=12-105&SDesc=RB5%26%23153%3B+Plane
I tested it on a piece of polystyrene that's a LOT harder to cut than ABS Mac Case Plastics. Give the thing a look, try it out on some softwood, then hardwood and then tackle your CC's tushie. It is a straight line rabbet you're trying to make, right?
That pic is a little misleading, it shows blades (called irons on a real plane, but these are tiny & replaceable/disposable, so nopro as long as they're recyclable! [
] ]'> ) in both the bullnose and standard center position for a block plane. I guess they're hawking it as a block plane to hit the broadest market. Not too many folks know or care about planes, much less rabbeting or bullnose planes, even some "woodworkers" would much rather use powered routers and sanders to make a lot of noise & dust instead of making curlique shavings while enjoying the gentle hiss of a nicely tuned plane doin' its thing.Anyway, as the name implies, it's a rabbeting plane with bullnose capability (to make a stopped rabbet or plane up to a ledge) and a decent, very lightweight, bang around block plane at an awesome price point for this kind of versatility!
http://www.stanleytools.com/default.asp?CATEGORY=PLANES&TYPE=PRODUCT&PARTNUMBER=12-105&SDesc=RB5%26%23153%3B+Plane
I tested it on a piece of polystyrene that's a LOT harder to cut than ABS Mac Case Plastics. Give the thing a look, try it out on some softwood, then hardwood and then tackle your CC's tushie. It is a straight line rabbet you're trying to make, right?
olePigeon
Well-known member
I ended up using some C clamps to clamp down my dremel, then I used a stack of paper to adjust the height of my bezel. I ran it along a metal straightedge and rabbeted the edge. I think it turned out great for my little rig. It now fits nicely in the back. My camera is so old and crappy (there isn't even an option to turn off the flash), I can't get a good picture of it. I have to be at least 3 feet away. Maybe I'll buy a new camera, I'm sure the cheapest ones now are good enough.
Trash80toHP_Mini
NIGHT STALKER
Congratulations on your first successful foray into the wonderful world of jig making and Rube Goldberg tool setups! Very nicely done with what was on hand, don't worry about the pictures, I believe you!
When you're using a rotary bit lengthwise to make a rabbet or dado, remember to think of ways to fabricate a pivoting slide base to change the depth of cut/distance from the edge for dados. Using a stack of paper was ingenious, BTW, but learning the mechanics of how basic machine tools operate will allow you to make jigs/setups that are more versatile and worth keeping around for the next time they're needed.
You're well on your way comrade! :b&w:
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