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Macintosh high resolution display video card recapped.

register

Well-known member
Well done. Congratulations! Make a Wiki article stub, please. (How about: "Capacitor replacement" ?)

 

Macbuk

Well-known member
I would, i'll do but I still haven't found the best way, the correct procedure to take the traces on place. Aluminum capacitors are "infrared soldered" exactly on the bottom of their base. So if you are willing to remove there's always a risk of breaking the respective traces. I'm recapping my SE30 but i've lost the + trace of C9 capacitor, i'm waiting to find the schematics to restore it before try to power on.

 

Temetka

Well-known member
I have worked with SMT components in the past.

If you do a gradual heat up of each leg the cap should come free without the trace. Too much heat too quickly and the cap will not have time to separate from the trace and will pull it with it. This can be overcome by using a small slot screwdriver placed right at the edge of the leg to hold the trace in place during the removal process.

Where do you get your caps from?

 

Macbuk

Well-known member
i've soldered any type of electronic smd component on newer motherboards, guitar / audio amplifier, with troubleless procedures.

I've met, instead, any sort of problem with these vintage apple boards! :)

Yes, i used a 20 watt solder heating up gradually but i discovered that those apple SMD aluminum capacitors are not only soldered but firmly glued to the motherboard superface with two glue spots. While you desolder one side its counterpart is stressed and tend to lift. Even if it didn't happen with this video card i've had problem with SE30 recapping.

 

Temetka

Well-known member
They glued them down? 8-o 8-o

That seems like a bit of overengineering to me. Sure the part stays in place for very long periods of time, however it makes replacing the part much more difficult.

As others here have suggested, I use hot glue to hold a component in place. It's easy to work with, easy to clean up, and easy to remove.

 

dpatten

Well-known member
You can carefully cut the solder bridge or leads and remove the part before you desolder the clipped leads.

Also, solder wick is your best friend when working with larger surface mount components.

 

register

Well-known member
They glued them down?
A common procedure for industrial manufacturing of electronic gear on a printed circuit board (pcb) is to glue the components in place with a sticky mixture of flux and solder powder, applied on the soldering pads. On boards with components on a second side they will be glued in place with an additional dot of glue amongst each part (a common glue for this a 1-component epoxy resin, as available from Loctite). Afterwards the board is heated with hot air or infrared radiation to melt the solder (reflow soldering). The flux will be removed in a washing process. No human will touch the board during the process, as the complete glueing-soldering-washing is made by industrial robots (like Siemens, which play a leading role in this buisiness). You just put a stack of pcbs and some reels of belt linked components into the factory and it spits out a bucket full of completely assembled boards.

-> Because of this portions of glue under most industrally mounted smd components you not only have to liquify the solder but also have to melt the glue and remove the part with some patience to pull it slowly off the board.

 

Temetka

Well-known member
Well,

consider me educated then.

I have seen many vids on how CPU's, PCB's and so on are made. None of them mentioned glue (unless it was for the CPU heat spreader).

Thanks!

 

da9000

Active member
For future reference/anyone stumbling on this thread who's trying to remove SMD caps, the following is a tested and very successful method (I'd say far superior to any of the above - I've done hundreds of SMD cap replacements and I have tried all the of the above too):

Use a pair of pliers to twist the SMD component left and right, slowly, gently, until the legs shear off. Your traces will be intact and you'll just have to unsolder the remaining capacitor leg (you don't have to if you don't want to), and solder on a new one (and NOT SMD - usually there's no need for an SMD - just be careful to use a component with the same rating, same microfarads and same or higher voltage rating).

Cheers

 

trag

Well-known member
Better yet, just use two soldering pencils simultaneously, one on each pad. That avoids stressing the circuit board by twisting the still attached component.

 

techknight

Well-known member
then you need a third hand to pull the cap while your other 2 are holding the irons.

they make special "tweezers" irons specifically for that situation. I think... its been awhile

 

da9000

Active member
@techknight:

That's why I don't recommend it. Even with the specialized "tonsil soldering irons". Add to that the epoxy which is described correctly above (which many high end motherboards use - and is really hard to work against with tonsil type irons) and twist+turn is the best method IMHO.

100% agreement with Osgeld.

In my experience I've never ripped a trace with the twist method (remember to go slow and change directions, never rush it), while I have destroyed many traces trying to be "proper" and using irons. And I've replaced hundreds of SMD caps, maybe in the thousands, on platforms ranging from Macs to NeXTs, Amigas, IBM clones, various embedded systems, PCI/AGP video cards, and FPGA dev boards.

 

trag

Well-known member
You do not need a third hand, nor tweezers. The cap or resistor lifts up suspended between the two pencil tips.

And you don't stress the board the way you do with your twist method.

If you need something to *pull* the device off then you haven't fully heated the solder and/or glue yet and you shouldn't be applying any force any way.

You may be personally very skilled with the twist off method. Most people doing this for the first time are not going to have the necessary gentle touch, nor the experience to know how hard they can grip or twist. Two pencils is much easier for a beginner and much much less likely to get them into trouble.

 

da9000

Active member
By third hand, techknight was referring to the two solder method, not the twizzer-solder/twin-pencils method.

Anyways, I see what you're saying Trag, and yes there might be stress while twisting if done quickly and abruptly, but if there's any stress it's on the pads, not on the motherboard, even with glue. However doing it slowly I've never seen enough stress to threaten the pads. It's always the cap that pays the price, which is of course the target of the dissection.

As for the the newbies and the pencils method, I disagree, simply because most people don't have the hand stability (like I did when I started) while grabbing the cap and trying to keep the ends of the pencils on it, and they eventually make a jerky movement forward or backwards as they try to rebalance/reposition their hand or even their bodies (because they've not been used to holding an instrument which requires lateral pressure and targeted accuracy all while being in an angle, and at the same time waiting for the solder to melt) and end up scratching the motherboard and other pads and traces. So many traces have been damaged this way in my opinion.

On the other hand with the twist, it's easier since there's only one grab and then rotation at the easiest orientation/angle: vertical. No balancing act until the solder melts and then the glue and no need for testing to see if the thing is moving or not, no angle to hold the instrument at, no noxious fumes from melting the plastic base of the SMD cap, etc.

Finally there's the cost. Pencil irons (a good one is at least $30-40, right) vs. a pair of pliers which everyone has at home.

Anyhow, people can read the facts and try either of these methods. I personally suggest the twist because even though I've the ability to solder/desolder down to 0603 sized SMD components (check here for sizes: http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/f/f4/SMT_sizes_by_Zureks.png) with even a regular iron, I botched up many desoldering jobs on SMD caps when using irons, while after I started going "medieval" on them with the twist method, I've never messed any.

 

trag

Well-known member
As with any of this stuff, it all boils down to one statement:
Your mileage may vary......
Yes, indeed. It is best to present others with each of the methods and let them decide what sounds easiest for them. I think. :)

 
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