I always think it is safer to have the AB installed in the machine particularly with the anode cap (big red wire) safely connected to the CRT with the earth cable connected. Too risky for amateurs to be playing around some of these deadly voltages.
Safety first folks, safety first.
ClassicMacintosh look on Mouser or Digikey and you should be able to find replacements for most parts.
Double check your polarity on the Capacitors you have replaced and check the traces on the reverse side to see if there is any obvious corrosion, next check polarity between trace end points with a multimeter.
Thank you! I have done this, safety first is a good mantra. I ended up ordering all the parts on eBay, don't mind waiting a little longer. But will keep mouser in mind, their shipping is lightning fast. Have double-checked the polarity of all caps on the recapped board. There was a fair bit of corrosion on the reverse of the recapped one, and a little on the other - scraped it off and applied mask on top.
There is one fuse.
For testing the classic must be switched on.
I used the CNY17G-3 and it worked. The others I don´t know.
I would start with measuring the voltages at the floppy port. Black to ground and red to 12 or 5V.
Be carefull when working at the AB! There are high voltages! Discharge the CRT when you disassemble the classic.
OK, have some testing results here:
On AC volt setting:
AB #1 (Classic 1, Fully recapped)
+12v: 1.45-1.95v
+5v: 1.51-1.94v
AB #2 (Classic 2, not recapped)
+12v: 11.99
+5v: 4.37
In addendum, there was a little caked-on liquid on the Classic 2 motherboard. I cleaned it up, and then swapped the 22k3W resistor from the Classic 1 board to the Classic 2 board (it was obviously burnt-out in board #2).
Results:
After a little popping, it came alive. The pattern on the screen waves a little and alternates with a quiet "pop" to straight horizontal lines, and back again.:
Does this help with any diagnosis? Feels like some progress. Thanks again