Bunsen, thank you for reposting that link. (It was originally
posted here by istar1080.) This is a long thread, so another mention doesn't hurt.
But it is important for all readers of this thread and the retrobright site to keep in mind that Lumpy has done some excellent work here on 68kMLA. And after reading the retrobright site and the Vintage Computer threads, I see that Lumpy's technique is preferred. It uses small, safe amounts of H202 -- and for those of your living outside Japan, that means a cost savings and prevents you from de-yellowing too much too quickly. But perhaps the single most important point we all need to consider is the slightly different method advocated by the RetroBright site versus Lumpy's approach. Lumpy went the all-liquid route. RetroBright is using a paste. If you read through the Vintage Computer threads, you will see how the paste dries and solidifies and flakes. This requires frequent re-applications through the day and, from what I see, can also result in a rather non-uniform de-yellowing if not done with great care. True, Lumpy's approach requires a lot more liquid (and is therefore expensive for people like me who live in Japan), but so long as you keep the parts exposed well to UV, you don't have to worry about your solution drying out and flaking or your de-yellowing job getting patchy results. Lumpy's approach also does not require a blender or even safety googles as are highly recommended when making the RetroBright paste.
So perhaps we need to call the liquid version, LumpyBright? In any case, thank you, LumpyDog.