JB Weld + broken TiBook hinge = success

[H3NRY]

You can't weld aluminum to steel, so solder, braze, weld, etc are no go. If both surfaces are a bit rough, brushed rather than polished shiny, I'd probably try a urethane-based glue in addition to nuts and bolts. Give it a couple of days to dry, since it drys by solvent evaporation, and the metal will block that except at the edges. A thin glue layer will be better than a thick one, and mechanical fasteners will be most effective around the edges since if the glue fails, it will be by peeling rather than sliding or straight pulling.

 

[Paralel]

Urethane based glue? What is the consistency like? Any particular brands?

 

[ClassicHasClass]

Followup, since longevity of the weld had been questioned: TiBook out tonight while I did some cosmetic restoration and testing. Hinge is just fine.

 

[CJ_Miller]

Congratulations, Cameron!

I love my hand-me-down TiBook but it needs to be babied, I can picture myself making a lifetime buy of TiBook DVI laptops and parts so that I can be always assured of having one that works.

Why the hinges are so costly is that broken ones are a very common problem, so there is a demand for these. Also dinged, dented, and peeling cases... People who love these machines have an uphill battle maintaining them. The aluminum G4s appear to be much more durable, but my 1GHz Ti is the final OS 9 laptop so it stays. If my hinges went I would probably look for a mechanical solution, bolt some kind of new hinges on and spoil its svelte profile.

 

[techknight]

So exactly how do you avoid "breaking" these hinges? mine arnt broke, but i dont want them broke either.

 

[ClassicHasClass]

Well, for one thing, don't drop them like I did

 

[techknight]

Well, yea, thats law number 1 for anything. hehe.

 

[iMac600]

Especially don't drop them with the LCD open. I may as well have thrown mine across the room (which I could well have done, worst computer i've ever owned).

Seems that the biggest issue is hinge over-tension leading to failure. Best way to test for this is to place the machine on a desk or bench, and open the LCD without holding the base of the machine down. If the base of the machine lifts, they're over-tensioned.

I believe some retailers still stock what was commonly known as the TiGlide kit, which pretty much consisted of a metal conditioner and thin oil, a black stick, torx wrenches, display shims and a spanner to adjust the hinge tension. I'm not sure what international retailers stock it, but I know MacFixit Australia still sells the kit for $34.00 AUD. The kit should extend the life of the Titanium PowerBook hinges significantly.

Failing that... bit of WD40 in the hinges? That's what I did but as you know, mine didn't exactly meet the most fortunate ending so... yeah.

 

[MacJunky]

Failing that... bit of WD40 in the hinges?

Alone that will make them worse, you would need to follow up with real lubricant once the wd-40 evaporated.

 

[ClassicHasClass]

What MacJunky said. WD-40 isn't a lubricant, it's a water displacer (and it's volatile to boot).

 

[iMac600]

WD40 makes for a decent enough solution for this purpose if the display assembly doesn't open and close relatively freely. Partially due to this reason:

WD-40’s ingredients are a secret. The makers avoided revealing its ingredients by not filing for a patent, but it is known to consist of oil suspended in a volatile hydrocarbon. When WD-40 is sprayed, the suspended oil can get into crevices where the hydrocarbon evaporates, leaving behind the oil lubricant. Every surface has some degree of imperfection at the molecular level. The long hydrocarbon chains in oils and grease serve to provide a layer between the two surfaces and help them move over each other easily. WD-40 was not originally designed as a lubricant so it is actually not the best lubricant to use on a fast moving mechanical part like a bicycle chain.

In a nutshell, it's an oil that can get into tight spots. Like a notebook hinge. It's a decent enough start when it comes to the relatively difficult task of freeing up tension in the hinge assembly.

Eventually I found a synthetic anti-seize oil called Nulon L90 used in the manufacturing of engines that worked relatively well, and so it should, considering it's designed to free up camshafts rotating at speeds of up to 3500rpm for a typical 7000rpm redline engine. Downside was the thickness but considering only a fraction of the applied amount made it to the inside of the clutch assembly, it worked extremely well for the purpose.

I'm not sure if i'd recommend it again though based on the price and the lack of any long-term testing when used on notebook hinges.

 

[ClassicHasClass]

Just as a followup on this, since long term longevity had been questioned: still holding like a champ.