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Green Phosphor Mod Connector Question
- Thread starter thegarse
- Start date
thegarse
Active member
Same orientation of the tubes? Thanks, theoretically I can put this B/W screen in the enclosure for the iic monitor right?
One thing to be a little wary of is that those green phosphor tubes are a little more susceptible to burn-in than the white ones. An Apple II is less likely to have something permanently on the screen like, say, the Mac menu bar, so... just throwing that out there.
But, yes, if the yokes physically fit you should be able to swap them. It can be a pain to get the yoke correctly oriented, though.
But, yes, if the yokes physically fit you should be able to swap them. It can be a pain to get the yoke correctly oriented, though.
jessenator
Well-known member
Another voice: yes a yoke swap is necessary. It's a PitA, but for me it was worth it.
I sort of made general marks for orienting them correctly, but yes, manipulation is required. I 3d-printed some channel lock pliers (not the most sturdy things ever...) that let me at least rotate the yoke with the Mac powered up. Then I tightened the clamp screw with a plastic screwdriver (which I also printed bits for my multi-driver tool), then powered off the machine and tightened with a proper metal bit.
You'll still have to make other adjustments like the (can't remember the proper term) positioning rings, and sometimes the magnets. Your mileage may vary, but I got away with next to no adjustments to the magnets on one of my tube swaps. Then of course there are the analog board controls as well.
And to second what Gorgonops mentioned, you'll want to balance the drive and brightness controls and generally use it on a dimmer rather than bright setting. My green tube had quite the burn in from its past life as a CNC control monitor, and the persistence is quite a lot longer when the brightness and drive is cranked up.
Also, the ears on your green CRT don't look as far off as mine did so you probably won't have to fashion mount adapters like I did :lol:
I sort of made general marks for orienting them correctly, but yes, manipulation is required. I 3d-printed some channel lock pliers (not the most sturdy things ever...) that let me at least rotate the yoke with the Mac powered up. Then I tightened the clamp screw with a plastic screwdriver (which I also printed bits for my multi-driver tool), then powered off the machine and tightened with a proper metal bit.
You'll still have to make other adjustments like the (can't remember the proper term) positioning rings, and sometimes the magnets. Your mileage may vary, but I got away with next to no adjustments to the magnets on one of my tube swaps. Then of course there are the analog board controls as well.
And to second what Gorgonops mentioned, you'll want to balance the drive and brightness controls and generally use it on a dimmer rather than bright setting. My green tube had quite the burn in from its past life as a CNC control monitor, and the persistence is quite a lot longer when the brightness and drive is cranked up.
Also, the ears on your green CRT don't look as far off as mine did so you probably won't have to fashion mount adapters like I did :lol:
