Getting G3 Whisper Perch USB working

croissantking

Well-known member
Far from my finest work but it'll do I think. I forgot the 10k bridge resistor because I'm using the firelink IC, but I'll get that on before I test it.

Peep how well the ultrasonic cleaner did on the flux removal. The trick is to use extremely toxic MG 4010A flux remover in a beefy ziplock, put the board in that, then put the bag in the ultrasonic cleaner with distilled water. Works a treat.

Please excuse the gigantic images. My new phone is a bit overloaded on megapixels.

Really cool to see this, it’s the first build I’ve seen other the ones I made myself.

I do the 10K bridge resistor like this now:

IMG_1842.jpeg
 

Trekintosh

Well-known member
Ah that's a much better solution. I didn't get any USB activity in the 8.1 installer but I also didn't try very hard and that version of apple system profiler doesn't report PCI info. The fan was screaming so I didn't pursue it further that might.
 

croissantking

Well-known member
Yeah I’ve just updated the BOM to include an extra one of those resistors as I figure everyone will be doing that bodge.

Are you planning to use Mac OS 8.1 to try out the USB port? Support was *extremely* limited and 8.6 (along with the needed USB adapter card support drivers) really is the earliest version I recommend you try this with.
 

Trekintosh

Well-known member
Yeah I’ve just updated the BOM to include an extra one of those resistors as I figure everyone will be doing that bodge.

Are you planning to use Mac OS 8.1 to try out the USB port? Support was *extremely* limited and 8.6 (along with the needed USB adapter card support drivers) really is the earliest version I recommend you try this with.
Nope! I just installed that as a test with the original Molar Mac install disk. I didn't do any research on support or anything. I'll definitely be upgrading to 8.6 ASAP.
 

MacJunky

Well-known member
Sorry for being pedantic, but it looks like MG 4010A is mostly ethanol, D5, and isopropyl alcohol. I still wouldn't do shots of it, but you probably could, so extremely toxic is an exaggeration. Extremely volatile, perhaps. Disclaimer: I am not a doctor, and this does not constitute medical advice. If you choose to drink flux remover, the consequences of doing so are your sole responsibility.

Now back to our regularly-scheduled programming.
Wait, so I'm the only one using spray cans of brake parts cleaner? It works a treat. Can't remember if I normally use chlorinated or not, I tend to have both types floating around at any given time.
 

Trekintosh

Well-known member
Non chlorinated brake clean is mostly acetone by volume. I’d be concerned about melting nearby plastics, or plastic components in the board. I think most board mounted plastic components will probably be immune to acetone, kinda comes with the territory of being able to withstand soldering temperatures.
 

adespoton

Well-known member
So what do you people normally use? I just use IPA and then follow up with acetone on a swab if absolutely necessary. Never had to use MG 4010A....
 

Trekintosh

Well-known member
IPA is more than adequate for home gamers. I just used the 4010A because we were doing boards at work anyways so it was easy to chuck the perch card in.
 

Trekintosh

Well-known member
I got questions about the soft power system. Are there any keyboards that will work besides the early Apple USB ones? I don’t have either of them to hand.
 

adespoton

Well-known member
I got questions about the soft power system. Are there any keyboards that will work besides the early Apple USB ones? I don’t have either of them to hand.
On USB, the power button sends the same signal as the media eject button, doesn't it?
 

croissantking

Well-known member
On USB, the power button sends the same signal as the media eject button, doesn't it?

Nope, the power button is very specific in that it shorts the D- line to ground when the computer is plugged in and powered off.

Control-Eject brings up the ‘Are you sure you want to shut down your computer?’ dialog box on some version of the Mac OS, but that’s still not quite the same.
 

adespoton

Well-known member
Nope, the power button is very specific in that it shorts the D- line to ground when the computer is plugged in and powered off.

Control-Eject brings up the ‘Are you sure you want to shut down your computer?’ dialog box on some version of the Mac OS, but that’s still not quite the same.
Sounds like an in-line button might be the way to go then :)
 

Trekintosh

Well-known member
I saw some mumbling in a couple of old Apple support threads about a Griffin(I think) inline power button adapter. I’d probably break it out into a separate cable so that you could put the power button wherever you like. Or drill a hole in a generic beige keyboard to match the computer and add the button there and wire it up inside. Might have to grab some garbage beige thing offa eBay.
 

croissantking

Well-known member
I saw some mumbling in a couple of old Apple support threads about a Griffin(I think) inline power button adapter. I’d probably break it out into a separate cable so that you could put the power button wherever you like. Or drill a hole in a generic beige keyboard to match the computer and add the button there and wire it up inside. Might have to grab some garbage beige thing offa eBay.
If you’re going for beige anyway, why not just stay ADB? Or is it more that you want to check if the startup circuit works…
 

Trekintosh

Well-known member
If you’re going for beige anyway, why not just stay ADB? Or is it more that you want to check if the startup circuit works…
2 things: If I can get one that has a built in hub like Apple keyboards have, it lets me not use a USB card at all and still get a nice optical mouse without an interposer like an ADB Wombat or QuokkADB. And it's fun.
 

croissantking

Well-known member
2 things: If I can get one that has a built in hub like Apple keyboards have, it lets me not use a USB card at all and still get a nice optical mouse without an interposer like an ADB Wombat or QuokkADB. And it's fun.
It definitely is fun :)

Why not get an Apple USB keyboard then - is it because you want something full size?

The setup I think is the most practical given the single USB port is to have an Apple keyboard hooked up directly and then a powered hub connected to the port on the keyboard. If you connect the keyboard through the powered hub then you lose power-on functionality.
 

Fizzbinn

Well-known member
Macally iKey - Only full sized USB keyboard with power key?

Used Macally iKey Apple Mac USB Keyboard Clear 104 Keys USB Ports iKey4 ...
 

Trekintosh

Well-known member
It definitely is fun :)

Why not get an Apple USB keyboard then - is it because you want something full size?

The setup I think is the most practical given the single USB port is to have an Apple keyboard hooked up directly and then a powered hub connected to the port on the keyboard. If you connect the keyboard through the powered hub then you lose power-on functionality.
Because they aren't beige!
Macally iKey - Only full sized USB keyboard with power key?

Used Macally iKey Apple Mac USB Keyboard Clear 104 Keys USB Ports iKey4 ...

While not beige this is extremely cool and I'll probably pick one up just to have.

just found this while looking around on lowendmac
https://www.ebay.com/itm/256573577651?

Macsense UKB-600, slightly smaller than the Macally and far rarer, but with another full size layout.
 
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