Agreed. I'll drink to that!How about extremely stinky?
Agreed. I'll drink to that!How about extremely stinky?
Far from my finest work but it'll do I think. I forgot the 10k bridge resistor because I'm using the firelink IC, but I'll get that on before I test it.
Peep how well the ultrasonic cleaner did on the flux removal. The trick is to use extremely toxic MG 4010A flux remover in a beefy ziplock, put the board in that, then put the bag in the ultrasonic cleaner with distilled water. Works a treat.
Please excuse the gigantic images. My new phone is a bit overloaded on megapixels.
Nope! I just installed that as a test with the original Molar Mac install disk. I didn't do any research on support or anything. I'll definitely be upgrading to 8.6 ASAP.Yeah I’ve just updated the BOM to include an extra one of those resistors as I figure everyone will be doing that bodge.
Are you planning to use Mac OS 8.1 to try out the USB port? Support was *extremely* limited and 8.6 (along with the needed USB adapter card support drivers) really is the earliest version I recommend you try this with.
Wait, so I'm the only one using spray cans of brake parts cleaner? It works a treat. Can't remember if I normally use chlorinated or not, I tend to have both types floating around at any given time.Sorry for being pedantic, but it looks like MG 4010A is mostly ethanol, D5, and isopropyl alcohol. I still wouldn't do shots of it, but you probably could, so extremely toxic is an exaggeration. Extremely volatile, perhaps. Disclaimer: I am not a doctor, and this does not constitute medical advice. If you choose to drink flux remover, the consequences of doing so are your sole responsibility.
Now back to our regularly-scheduled programming.
On USB, the power button sends the same signal as the media eject button, doesn't it?I got questions about the soft power system. Are there any keyboards that will work besides the early Apple USB ones? I don’t have either of them to hand.
On USB, the power button sends the same signal as the media eject button, doesn't it?
Sounds like an in-line button might be the way to go thenNope, the power button is very specific in that it shorts the D- line to ground when the computer is plugged in and powered off.
Control-Eject brings up the ‘Are you sure you want to shut down your computer?’ dialog box on some version of the Mac OS, but that’s still not quite the same.
If you’re going for beige anyway, why not just stay ADB? Or is it more that you want to check if the startup circuit works…I saw some mumbling in a couple of old Apple support threads about a Griffin(I think) inline power button adapter. I’d probably break it out into a separate cable so that you could put the power button wherever you like. Or drill a hole in a generic beige keyboard to match the computer and add the button there and wire it up inside. Might have to grab some garbage beige thing offa eBay.
2 things: If I can get one that has a built in hub like Apple keyboards have, it lets me not use a USB card at all and still get a nice optical mouse without an interposer like an ADB Wombat or QuokkADB. And it's fun.If you’re going for beige anyway, why not just stay ADB? Or is it more that you want to check if the startup circuit works…
It definitely is fun2 things: If I can get one that has a built in hub like Apple keyboards have, it lets me not use a USB card at all and still get a nice optical mouse without an interposer like an ADB Wombat or QuokkADB. And it's fun.
Because they aren't beige!It definitely is fun
Why not get an Apple USB keyboard then - is it because you want something full size?
The setup I think is the most practical given the single USB port is to have an Apple keyboard hooked up directly and then a powered hub connected to the port on the keyboard. If you connect the keyboard through the powered hub then you lose power-on functionality.
Macally iKey - Only full sized USB keyboard with power key?
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