phreakout
Well-known member
First, find out how much it would cost to send the logic board to Sydney. Then, based on that price, figure in how much the Classic II is worth in today's money. Then come to a median for what seems reasonable for your compensation. That would give you a rough estimate as to how much it would cost. International deliveries will always be pretty expensive, but if you stick to shipping it out via the post office than FedEx or UPS, you will find that it is cheaper.
Midnight Commando: Please tell me you have indeed burned your fingers in the attempt to solder/desolder your project. If so, you have earned our respect as a hardware hacker. In a way, it is one way to be considered one of the elite. Don't give up, though. Your experience will get you somewhere.
Until new pictures of your current Logic Board are posted, it's hard to say if whether you're flogging a dead horse or if it can in fact be completely revived. You've certainly got a lot of cleaning up to do along with some patching up of what has been damaged. Don't feel bad about having the pads lifting off the board and breaking; its happened to me too. The best thing to do is to visually follow the paths of where the traces go. This will get you to the place where you'll need to create a new bypass. I, too, agree that using a small gauge wire (about 24 AWG or lower) will give you the benefit for not using so much heat.
I've done my share of recap jobs in the past. And I'd be lying if I said I didn't make any mistakes. The thing I've learned is to take your own sweet time; you can't rush art.
Btw, as a hint, I've found that almost all boards created by Apple since the Macintosh II are in fact surface mount components (SMTs). Very rarely have I found a genuine Apple product that used components that had to be soldered through the holes on a printed circuit board (PCB).
73s de Phreakout. :rambo:
