• Updated 2023-07-12: Hello, Guest! Welcome back, and be sure to check out this follow-up post about our outage a week or so ago.

Apple Extended Keyboard repair help

3lectr1cPPC

Well-known member
I’ve got an original AEK with a bad left shift key. I took the assembly apart and noticed some corrosion in one area and I cleaned it up. Two traces are bad and I traced one of them back to said left shift key, great! The other leads to an option key.

So I traced the trace all the way to a pin on one of the ICs and soldered a bodge wire. Now the shift key acts stuck down at all times. Any ideas?

320D5AB5-5236-4FDE-A4A2-3A950B6D1642.jpeg
 

3lectr1cPPC

Well-known member
Indeed! Keys feel great on it, and the rest work. Except for that option key as well I suppose. Hopefully I’m doing some obvious wrong and I can get it fully working again.
 

zigzagjoe

Well-known member
I'd check the basics... have you checked continuity across the switch? Maybe it's stuck on or off when it shouldn't be. Also, make sure your bodge wire isn't accidentally connecting another pin somewhere.
 

3lectr1cPPC

Well-known member
Alright that’s the fault. Continuity on the switch, so it’s stuck. What are the options for repairing this? If there aren’t any easy ones I’ll just swap the switch with one of the mostly not used keys and then break the connection for that unused key.
 

zigzagjoe

Well-known member
Alright that’s the fault. Continuity on the switch, so it’s stuck. What are the options for repairing this? If there aren’t any easy ones I’ll just swap the switch with one of the mostly not used keys and then break the connection for that unused key.
It doesn't look like a lot of fun to do, but these alps switches are able to be taken apart. Here's a YT video.

If it has failed, personally, I'd swap it with a less used switch then order or salvage a vaguely correct replacement switch. With the resurgence of mechanical keyboards in hobbyist hands, it shouldn't be hard to find something close enough.
 

ClassicGuyPhilly

Well-known member
Yes the special feel and sound comes from the mechanical Alps switches, also used in IBM KBs. While hearing one mechanical keyboard sounds cool, I fear the younger folks will never enjoy a room full of them at full fury...a unique symphony of the past.
 

3lectr1cPPC

Well-known member
Great, great news! At least for now, the shift key has fixed itself! Now I’ve just got to solder a bodge for the left option key and it should be fully functional. For $5!!!
I’ve tested the rest and all others are working.
 

3lectr1cPPC

Well-known member
Thanks! I just spent the time since that reply finishing up cleaning the thing (it was pretty filthy before) and soldering a bodge for the left option key. Got it reassembled now and all keys are working great! I’m really happy that it turned out to be a pretty simple repair this time around. It’s a great keyboard!
7AD60E28-B7A8-46A2-87A4-2CDE4FE2E177.jpeg
 

joshc

Well-known member
Glad you got it going. In future, bear in mind these old ALPS switches can be susceptible to dirt and get a bit stuck - some contact cleaner sprayed directly into the switch and then worked into the switch by pressing it lots of times can help, this has fixed bad keys on these for me several times.
 

s_pupp

Well-known member
Glad you got it going. In future, bear in mind these old ALPS switches can be susceptible to dirt and get a bit stuck - some contact cleaner sprayed directly into the switch and then worked into the switch by pressing it lots of times can help, this has fixed bad keys on these for me several times.
I’ve not done this because of my concern that the cleaner may not evaporate fully. I have mental images, however unrealistic, of flames shooting from the “3” key while pressing it. Do you open the key to vent it, or does the cleaner evaporate well with just the key cap removed?
 

3lectr1cPPC

Well-known member
Since the original fix the shift stuck issue returned and I tracked the root cause - I had bridged a pin with my bodge that went to ground. Whoops. So yeah, the switch was fine in this case. Good advice though!
 

joshc

Well-known member
I’ve not done this because of my concern that the cleaner may not evaporate fully. I have mental images, however unrealistic, of flames shooting from the “3” key while pressing it. Do you open the key to vent it, or does the cleaner evaporate well with just the key cap removed?
It's never crossed my mind, and I am pretty sure it's a pretty widely accepted fact that contact cleaner in keyboard switches is safe enough. I don't take the switch apart, just take the key cap off and spray the contact cleaner in and then press the switch many times to work it through the switch.
 
Top