Oh well hey! Even better! I didn't know it was updated.Hmmm, yeah I don't use that version any more. Thanks though. This is what I use nowadays:View attachment 38214
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Oh well hey! Even better! I didn't know it was updated.Hmmm, yeah I don't use that version any more. Thanks though. This is what I use nowadays:View attachment 38214
I'd really like to see the innards of this! I approve of the orange, too...if you guys want I can open it up at some stage and take some more photos if anyones interested
hey thanks, to be honest the orange was just the filament I had on hand at the time, I did this a few months agoI'd really like to see the innards of this! I approve of the orange, too...
Well, I am an unreformed software person who has no spatial awareness at all, so if it helps I am likely to find it impressive by default if it holds what it's meant to and doesn't fall to bits ;-) .though please understand that im not very experienced so far in CAD design and there's many things I would change or do differently if I even got around to doing a revision
I think this should be a question for the thread more broadly; I have no idea. I watch with admiration as people produce these things, but I have no idea where to start myself.do you have any suggestions on where would be a good place to upload the stl files should someone want to print their own copy, assuming they are happy knowing that there are subtle issues/tweaks needed? its far from perfect but would be great to see someone else print or use it a a base for their own designs...
well they good thing is it willl allow any logic board using the same edge connector as the performa 630 with era exception that the logic boards requiring the 3.3 volt rail would need that wired up as mine is only wired for 5v, I believe some boards have 3.3v wired to one of the pins on the edge connector (forget what pin that was but its its trivial change) worth noting though that should someone want to print this they would need an original wiring harness to install into it. also the way it is designed it wouldn't be hard to for me to remove the floppyEMU that I have installed and modify the front face plate. in fact one on the thing I wanted to do was to change all the buttons on the from to be more 'Mac' like, so for example the volume buttons are just circles but if I ever get back to this project I want to change their circles to look like the buttons used on a real Mac being a spare with a half circle on one edge ( hope that makes sense), and the floppyEMU buttons should be left and right triangle etc.Well, I am an unreformed software person who has no spatial awareness at all, so if it helps I am likely to find it impressive by default if it holds what it's meant to and doesn't fall to bits ;-) .
I always find it interesting when people mount their boards in unorthodox enclosures
I think this should be a question for the thread more broadly; I have no idea. I watch with admiration as people produce these things, but I have no idea where to start myself.
What's the screen and buttons on the front?I have unplugged it from its 'place' below my se/30 so I'll do my best to upload some pictures of the internals either tomorrow or the next day, being that its on my main lab bench I won't forget lol.
its a FloppyEmu that replaces the floppy dive with an SD-card(theres a slot under the contact flash card for the scared), i picked one up from BMOW a few years back to use with my SE/30 but the one in this mac is just home made version as i found some pcbs gerber files online and got some boards manufactured. basically this mac has no moving parts except a Noctula fan as the 68040 is overclocked and theres a 486 Overdrive cpu in the dos card so it got a bit to toasty for my liking without a fan in there. it's pretty much silent though.What's the screen and buttons on the front?
Ahhh, that explains why I didn't recognise it. I have a BMOW floppy emu and love it.but the one in this mac is just home made version as i found some pcbs gerber files online and got some boards manufactured
Maybe we should have a thread for custom cased macs and what they're doing. that might be interestingbasically this mac has no moving parts except a Noctula fan as the 68040 is overclocked and theres a 486 Overdrive cpu in the dos card so it got a bit to toasty for my liking without a fan in there. it's pretty much silent though.
Ahhh, that explains why I didn't recognise it. I have a BMOW floppy emu and love it.
Maybe we should have a thread for custom cased macs and what they're doing. that might be interesting
hey Cheesestraws, sorry for the late reply to this, I know you were interested in seeing the innards and I only just got around to taking a few pictures, there's a lot of ribbon cables that obviously would need to be shortened should I get back to working on this but hopefully these pictures can give you a look at the innards. worth mentioning that the psu adaptor was just a bodged setup build on some perf-board to invert the signal of the psu on signal but if I ever revise this project obviously I would need to get a small pcbs made up to connect the pico atx psu to the make psu harness, regardless here's a few pictures and if you would like and taken of a specific area please let me know.Ahhh, that explains why I didn't recognise it. I have a BMOW floppy emu and love it.
Maybe we should have a thread for custom cased macs and what they're doing. that might be interesting
hey Cheesestraws, sorry for the late reply to this, I know you were interested in seeing the innards and I only just got around to taking a few pictures, there's a lot of ribbon cables that obviously would need to be shortened
well I never wanted to shorten the cable harness during the design phase in case I changed things, I do honestly do want to get back to the design process and refine things and that would involve shortening most of those ribbon cables bit my workload Over the last 6-12 months studying mechanics engineering at university has majorly limited my free time to work on projects and when I have had free time other projects have kind of taken me away from this so there actually a tons of things I need to do, that I haven't had the free time to do (mechatronics is bloody hard both time wise and knowledge/study wise). like I have a bunch of projects outside of these classic Macs even that I have had the time to explore yet.Thankyou! That's nifty. I like how you've braced things against the front panel. Ribbon cables—some people can make them neat, apparently. I am not one of those people. So you are in good company, at least.
I can tell you the way I did it with the Color Classic piece. I think there are specialized tools one could use, but since I don't have access, I have a fairly accurate method. I use precision measurement equipment (just good, metric rulers) and photograph them (with a lens that gives me the least amount of distortion) from multiple angles, to make sure I get it all. In some cases you could get away with a flatbed scanner. I then used a drawing program (I used illustrator, but one could use another solution, where you can place images and scale units until you're working 1:1Forgive me if this is a simple question, but how do y'all measure the radius of curved edges/fillets for reproduction?
I think I found the little mini curve duplicator tool you're looking for! A company named MicroMark makes small version of trades tools...I can tell you the way I did it with the Color Classic piece. I think there are specialized tools one could use, but since I don't have access, I have a fairly accurate method. I use precision measurement equipment (just good, metric rulers) and photograph them (with a lens that gives me the least amount of distortion) from multiple angles, to make sure I get it all. In some cases you could get away with a flatbed scanner. I then used a drawing program (I used illustrator, but one could use another solution, where you can place images and scale units until you're working 1:1
In other parts, such as the curvature on the "facade" of the name plate, I measured the thickness in three spots with my calipers: edges and the center:
I know that photo doesn't look it, but the "support" plastic backing behind the curved facade/fascia piece is flat on this "inner" side, so measuring the height was the surest way to get the curvature correctly.
These weren't all of the measurements I took, but this is a start. I go back and forth, from drawing, to reference piece, re-measure, and I went through a number of 3d meshes until I was satisfied with my end result. Obviously, even with the beta version linked above, I missed a couple of small things: the thickness of the prongs near the base.
As far as a special tool—if something like this was made at a smaller scale, that might work: https://www.amazon.com/Contour-Gauge-Duplicator-Outline-Tool/dp/B081DGCQX8
I think I found the little mini curve duplicator tool you're looking for! A company named MicroMark makes small version of trades tools...